whats up guys, jeez im tired after that fiasco today! had to find a better place to start preppin the 3s (puttin on h2o pump,cam seals etc) and realized how truly heavy that motor is with the AWD on it...

But anywho i had some quick questions before me and my buddy lay hands on it.

as far as taking the tranny off (caldina AWD) is there anything i should be particularly mindful of? or any tricks you all know of? please share!


when i replaced my harmonic balancer before, the motor was IN the car, and loosening it wasnt TOO bad because we used some suggested tricks (like using prybar against the ground while starting car to loosen bolt) But now since the motor is out, will i have any trouble getting the bolt off? we should have some power tools, but i remember it beign a PITA without it.

also does anybody know the torque specs for the harmonic balancer? i couldnt find it after a long search.


feel free to throw in any hints for this prep work!

i'll try to take some pics while we're pokin about with it.

This post has been edited by easternpiro1: Feb 21, 2011 - 3:29 PM

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I think its around 80ftlb.

Oh, replace your oil pump seal and o-ring.

if you've already taken the bolt out once, it shouldnt be to bad this time with an impact wrench.
do whatever maintinence the timing belt side needs while the motor is out, and the rear main seal as well.
i always try and think about how much harder certain things are to do (like the timing belt/water pump stuff) with the motor in the car, and make sure those are all taken care of while the motor is out.
if your not 100% sure about taking things off, just be sure to bag and label anything you remove, and taking pics sometimes helps to refresh your memory when you go to reinstall things.
just take your time, dont rush things.
as a side bonus, anything you clean up, paint, coat or whatever now, will make you 10X happier once its in the car.

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damn i think i forgot to order that part!


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thanks guys! as far as the harmonic balancer bolt is concerned, its a different motor, im taking the harmonic balancer from my blown 3s because that one is brand new (i got it from that guy in florida that scammed everyone) and putting it on this one.
i've bought all the goodies from lagos to put on there because i remember how much of a royal presidenital PAIN it is to get that stuff in once motor is in

i do plan to paint my valve cover gasket since im takin that off as well to replace cam seals, just waiting for the gaskets to come in (thanx doc!)

What else should i paint manny? i was thinking about the timing belt cover (since i have an extra one) but that may not come out too well.

will keep ya'll updated!

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Painted gasket FTW, lol.

For reals though, I will be doing pretty much everything mentioned in this thread myself as my fresh motor is coming in soon. Thanks in advanced eastern and everyone else for the info.

lol! painting valve cover gasket FTL

youre welcome man, but what'd i do? lol

Start a thread about stuff to remember for swap prep. And I am currently in the swap prep process.

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dont do what i did and crack the upper oil pan near the clutch dust cover!!!!!! lol i was using a big a$$ screw driver and driving it around the tranny with a hammer and i started wackin the screw driver deeper and deeper around the tranny in one spot and POP! i cracked it. it was an easy fix tho. pics of the crack r in my thread. havent posted repaired pics yet

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im sure there are like 188383739 threads on this dont want to repeat a thread HOWEVER i did mention alot of the necessary things in this thread:

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=75910

I didnt get idler pulleys b/c i already have some from the blown motor in the trunk somewhere.

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I will be sure to keep that in mind!


oh man, u know what just occured to me.... we took the motor out from the bottom!!!

DAMNIT! me and tweak gonna have a headache puttin it back in... i fail.

Piro - Plz do me a favor and take lots of pics of the valve cover gasket/Toyota FIPG install. I'm leaking like mad from there and am about ready to instal a new gasket and that custom powdercoated VC I bought two years ago LOL.
Thanks in advance

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gotcha! but the 4th gen valve cover gasket is 2 part from what doc Tweak told me. i dont remember it being two parts when i took it off before, but then again i have bad memory and it was back in december or jan. when i did it

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There are, and I have read most of them, but this thread had smaller less obvious swap prep things mentioned.

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ah gotcha!

i can mention them right here, i have the list right here

cam seals (not expensive FTW)
FRONT AND REAR main seals
thermostat
waterpump (dont forget gaskets that go on it)
idler pulleys (i didnt b/c i got some extras that i KNOW work)
some people say belt tensioners
of course a good ol OEM timing belt (nothin fancy schmancy like HKS unless youre gonna do some serioius tuning)
V-belts (which i recently learned are also called accessory belts (alternator pow. steering etc)
oil pump gaskets

for NORMAL folk all of this stuff would cost OVER 200 bucks

but for the KINGS of the earth that drive 6gc's total was like 170 From good ol lagos and his buddys at the illadelphia toyota ya cant beat toyota quality for that price!

This post has been edited by easternpiro1: Oct 12, 2010 - 12:16 PM

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It IS technically two peices if you count the one peice that goes around the #2 and #3 sparkplug tubes and the center hold down bolt. All of the gens have that setup IIRC. But then again my memory can be pretty bad too and it's been 5 years since I tore down my Caldina clip.
Perhaps the main gasket is two parts on the Caldina? IDK. Let's research this and include it.
Can anybody provide pics of all 4 generations of the 3S-GTE?

i got my other 4th gen head (WHICH IS FOR SALE if anyone wants it ) I'll take pics when i get off work, unless somebody beats me 2 it.

This post has been edited by easternpiro1: Oct 12, 2010 - 2:49 PM

AWD tranny OFF whew what a PAIN!



Motor on the way to pals house to tear down


gotta pressure wash this mess! (that damn thing i bought thats supposed to be a screw on hose pressure washer is a SCAM!


engine bling!

This post has been edited by easternpiro1: Oct 19, 2010 - 2:34 PM

go to lowes sears or home depot when it gets a little colder i got a good deal for 125 bucks...

Now that you removed the tranny, you can place a pry bar between one tooth of the flywheel (driveplate) and a engine-bloc-to-tranny bolt. Then, you can loosen your crank pulley bolt because the crankshaft wont move with the pry bar blocking the flywheel from turning. This is what I did and it worked nicely.

Good luck with the swap!

Sam

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ah but im taking it to S.C. for some tweakin next week! need to get hold of one soon! if not just rent! iirc lowes rents them?

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thanks sam! glad you mentioned that! that crank pulley bolt wouldnt come off last night! thought it was because the airgun was too small... so just wedge a prybar in there eh? thanks! was wondering how to get it off!!

damn. the water pumps are different! well it seems the housings are. will post pics lata. on cellie now.

im thinking i can just use the pump and ditch the housing?

This post has been edited by easternpiro1: Oct 22, 2010 - 10:19 PM

damn...that's a bummer east...would you mind making a complete list at the end....for future 4th gen swappers...what to change out like the first post and because it's ST215, make note of what can be replaceable or interchangeable, and what are not...which like the water pump example...needs to be for the ST215 ONLY and not from others or if you find out maybe water pump from a solara works with st215 pump...etc..thanks for you time and effort.

more than likely you can use the pump.

no prob chacha. i made a thread about it further down in forced induction with a list i found. i reviewed the list again and found that the pump can be interchanged so i guess i gotta take off the housing :-( i'm hoping the Gasket is ok. will take more pictures and try To post when i can.

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dont try and remove the screws with a normal screwdriver, bro, get an impact screwdriver.
one good whack and the screws loosen right up, without stripping them out.

thanks manny! that came in handy! didnt have the impact so gotta wait until tomorrow (i hope he picked it up) in the mean time... here's some MOAR pics


rear main seal once flywheel is oWt... lets snatch that beyotch oWT!


old rear main and new (seal that sumbeyotch up FTW)


New seal goin in (my boy said im too damn heavy handed insisted that he put it in) see cam seals below to understand what he meant

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4th gen and other gen water pumps match FTW! (thanx pit&manny)


FAIL! Housings dont match FTMFL!! (notice inside the tunnel where the thermostat goes... the 4th gen water lines are up TOP the other gens water lines at the bottom its ok we'll just disgard the housing. HOPEFULLY the gasket is the same!


coolant lines wont match up


rear main seal in W/sealant for good measure



Cam seals in! (note the notches are TDC) remember to use sealant to be extra sure!

and now for some goofin off....

SHADDAP... I KNOW im dark! lol all the better to HIDE!



I realized i used all my condoms faster than i thought, and had no baloons so plastic bags for plugs it is!


what a mess... hope that degreaser works!


DIE DIRT DIIIIIIIIIIIIIIEEEE!!!




DAMN... still dirty (i got gipped ).... will re do again tomorrow, and get some engine brite....

next.... getting the face of the H2O pump off and hanging the timing belt and throwin the valve cover on!

and HOPEFULLY the O-ring and gasket for the oil pump is a match!

This post has been edited by easternpiro1: Oct 23, 2010 - 4:07 PM

how many swaps have you gone through in the past years? lol

Anyways the project looks like its coming along good.

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LOL! This made my day

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3rds a charm! lol

Keep it up brother man