600

hmmm...I'm starting to think I should change to FMIC but I'm not totally convinced...

Hi,

WTA and ATA, both has pro and cons
important to know is that big doens't means good, first you have to fix your needs and wishes

in short if you are spool up orientated stay with the WTA system

possible a TTE intercooler is a good choice for you, i had postetd a few informations about in here ->

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...tte+intercooler

greetz

maybe a barrel charge cooler instead...

Hi,

the first you can do is to raise the specific heat capacity of the intercooler liquid, i drive a 1:1,5 mix alc : water, water is the best fluid to cool,
no one ever had developed a better liquid (also imperative for the engine cooling system)

alcohol, has a lower specific heat capacity and also reduce the heat transfer in the radiators

greetz

Don't want to derail this thread anymore than it has been so i will make this quick i found this intercooler which resembles the positions of the regular in and out of the gt4 chargecooler...



200$ quite nice too

im using texaco ethylwateverits called with water and water wetter

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Dec 11, 2011 - 9:45 AM

Keepin' it REAL cold!

how cold?

What size are the inlets/outlets on that water cooler?

3" in and out

Need some help from people who have completed swaps. My exhaust bit the dust today, but since im swapping I figured that I should go ahead and fabricate the exhaust will mate to my 3s. Problem is im not ready to swap the motor yet. is the collector at the bottom of the catalytic converter that bolts to the B-pipe in the same orientation as the 3sgte's downpipe?

I had mine done after I swapped. Ran open downpipe for a month or so, then had a friend fabricate a 3" DP back exhaust with muffker and res.... Kinda miss the sound if open DP lol

>

a cut-out will change that

Open dp make heads turn

Did some painting and fitting today...

My mechanic actually lost that brace you painted...so thru away the spacer and that lost thing is floating god knows where...


Edit: Just noticed...WRC Heat shield!

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jan 3, 2012 - 8:41 PM

Got the intake manifold back from the machine shop. I had it put in a chemical bath overnight to clean out the carbon. Then I painted and installed it. Here tis'

I wish I was as far along with my rebuild as you. Good work

btw, is that exhaust manifold painted or ceramic coated?

This post has been edited by enderswift: Jan 15, 2012 - 4:49 PM

I painted the manifold with 2000 degree paint.

motor looks great man cant wait to see it in the bay

Well I finally got my heat tape in the mail so I was able to make some serious progress. Not too much longer and this baby will be ready to unload her rage on the streets!


If you look close you can see the heat tape wrapped on my water bypass pipe.


The hose from hell is no joke! Even when you have direct access to it!

Damn thats clean. I've found the new standard for my swap.

Thanks man!

Got a few questions for you guys who have already completed swaps as to where some of the vacuum lines connect to, and a small wiring question.

Here are the pics...


What do these end up connecting to?


This one may be kind of tough. Non-WRC's have this vacuum hose blocked off on their intake manifold...so i'm gonna need someone with a WRC to tell me what this short little hose connects to, AND what the T fitting that is in the middle of it connects to.


I know that this hose connects to the water cooler, but where do you connect it if you're running a front mount intercooler??? Do you just connect it to the boost pipe?


This one right here has me stumped. These two lines are bundled together, one of them connects to the cold start injector, but where does the other end of the hose from the cold start injector connect to? I'm not sure however where the other one connects to, right now I don't have either end connected to anything.


And finally...my wiring question

Since i'm running a front mount do I still need to hook up the water cooler pump relay since it sits in the same fuse box as the fuel pump? Or do I omit it. And with the water cooler removed do I need to do the resistor mod on the W2A fluid level sensor harness?

I just don't want to run into any unexpected check engine lights.

This has caused me to also contemplate one more thing. Is it absolutely necessary to wire in the fuel pump relay from the 3s or is there a way to wire the stock 5s one in? Which is easier? Which makes more sense?

the first pic I believe goes to the big vac canister thingamabob.



I believe thats the VSV and one side is the vent side... I threw all of this stuff away when i went standalone....

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jan 20, 2012 - 10:43 AM

If I remember right the lines with with the checkvalve goes to the charcoal canister.

This post has been edited by enderswift: Jan 20, 2012 - 11:50 AM

Anybody know where the line from the cold start injector connects to?

Hi,

there isn't a cold start injector on the gen.3, i think you talk about the valve under the throttle body?

if yes, this is the homologated water injection valve

i'll try to remember as good as possible




1 = power steering pump
2 = doesn't know any more
3 = hologating purpose -> disconnect it and you will see that the port in the manifold isn't opened
4 = nor sure but i think this are the throttle body water lines

greetz

>

This is the air con idle up valve, the pipe connects to the back of the charge cooler in the standard car...just put a little air filter onto it or plumb it into the FMIC pipework. If you have no Aircon then remove the lot and block the hole into the inlet manifold up.

This post has been edited by Nial: Jan 21, 2012 - 2:38 PM