would pay to upgrade the fuel pump though, to make sure you can still supply the same fuel pressure while using the spray

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No need, fuel pressure holds at a steady 48 psi spraying just as it does when off the juice

yeah 10.9 is richhh

id want it close to 12-12.5 for safety, but even thats a little rich for max power.

i have found my 100% stock motor wants to run 10-11:1 at WOT though, so you are within what toyota wants u to run i bet...

Hey guys and girls!

Sorry this thread has been dead for so long, the whole big boy job and everything means I have no time to do anything else, but I do have some money to play with now


Finally got to put my baby on the dyno with the nitrous system all sorted, I had run into some issues a while back with lines getting clogged up after only two bottles through the system, but now it all works and I have a dyno chart to prove it!!!



Only 4 HP shy of my goal

I think with one or two more pill adjustments I should be able to see the 200 + WHP that I have been seeking...and btw did you notice the fact that this thing is a torque monster!!!?!?! 244 WTQ!!!!!

Well I will keep you all updated as the mods continue on my baby, because they will only keep rolling in from now on

PS Here is a close up picture showing the cart...AFR if on the money too!



Happy holidays to all! Hope you have a great end of the year, and lets make next year even better for the 6cg community!

almost there. that's awesome!

I must compliment you. VERY VERY good work. Impressive.

great build man I just purchased the ZEX 4 cyl kit any comments on the kit easy to install etc?

Thanks Fastbird!!! I always had the desire to make her faster than she was after riding in your wifes car all those years ago.

So thanks for the motivation

Neon - did you get the direct port kit for the 4 cylinder? It isn't hard to install, but that's all relative to your mechanical abilities.of course. If you aren't sure, seek professional help, there is plenty of that in the 6gc community and if you have any questions always feel free to hit me up.

It was a little frustrating having to be the first to rely solely on nitrous to make my power since no one else had done it yet...that I knew off, but in the long run it paid off.

Thanks again to everyone for the positive comments during this whole build, much appreciated.

Yeah thanks man I got direct port and my mechanic will be installing it...my only beef is that nitrous is 200$ a fill in paraguay so I will definitely not be using it often...

very nice build man

you are going to blow that engine, your peak torque is at 4000RPM, look at your AF ratios, you are in the 14s.

What would fail first? melted pistons?

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Thanks for the vote of confidence....

I do realize that the AFR is in the 14s as soon as the bottle hits, but to be comepletely honest it climbs out of the RPMs so quickly, I do not believe it to be causing harm at this point.

Now I am by no means a professional tuner, nor did I tune my own car, but I feel that the 5s is a solid motor that can take this abuse...not for ever of course.

Please correct me if I'm wrong, I dont want to sound ignorant by any means.

What do you think would fail first as Neon asked? I know for a fact the bottom end is strong enough, if you've ever cracked open a 5s you know that the rods are beefy as hell, I also had them shot peened to recondition and strenghthen them during my rebuild.

I appreciate all the advise I can get and I do listen to recommendations, but I would appreciate you not just getting on an saying that I'm going to blow my motor just because my AFR is in the 14s momentarily.

Sorry I didn't read the entire thread, what size jets are you running ?

With nitrous oxide one should not rely heavily on wideband readings especially if you are using a fogger system. I highly recommend you learn to read spark plugs. Spark plugs never lie.

Secondly I suspect the lean afr your dyno graph is showing as soon as the nitrous is activated is probably a fuel pressure drop in the fuel rail when the fuel solenoid is energized. What fuel pump are you using.

Lastly I highly recommend you change the distribution blocks that came with your zex nitrous kit. The distribution on these are horrible. The bottom two ports get the majority of the nitrous distribution. These two ports are connected to cyl 1 & 4 so they will run leaner. You may say that your wideband is giving you a good reading so all is well, but unless you have wideband sensors just after each exhaust port then your wideband is getting a "combined" AFR for all 4 cyl . So cyl 1 & 4 may be seeing a 13:1 AFR and 2 & 3 may be seeing 10:1 so when these 4 reading combine in the exhaust manifold before the sensor , its none the wiser. This brings us back to my previous point, "learn to read spark plugs"

All in all , I like your build. Good luck.

I'm actually running a factory fuel pump for now.

I have a FP gauge on the car and I see 48 psi of fuel pressure while the nitrous is activated. The kit actually calls for 40 psi, so i know that I'm ok in that regard.

It is possible that the instantaneous lean spot is from the fuel pressure dropping in the fuel rail once the fuel solenoid kicks in, I do agree with you.

Now that i know I am making good HP numbers with the nitrous, I will do some test and read the plugs, I'm running NGK Platinum plugs, which I really like and have had no issue with.

I tried to source a set of those one step colder, and found it almost impossible and very expensive, around $50 for a set of 4

But I do like your input and suggestions, had not thought about the distribution blocks being biased in the...well distribution lol

What would you recommend I change the blocks out with? Brand? Style? Design?

Thanks again for the input! I will let you all know once I've had a chance to read the plugs and see what is going on, will even try to source a stethoscope camera to check my piston tops and see what type of carbon/heat patterns I have.

Cheers!

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aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand subscribed!

Awesome details! Keep up the great work!

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http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scrip...p?idproduct=185
"Showerhead" nitrous blocks

As a precautionary measure I would upgrade the fuel pump.

Copper plugs will be fine , 1 step colder.

What jets were used to make the 196 whp ?

.54 in all the nitrous side of the nozzles, .19 in the fuel side of the nozzles.

The distribution blocks were jetted to .46 on the nitrous side and .16 on the fuel side if I remember correctly.

I am actually going to take her to the dyno again in the next few weeks to see if I can get the over 200 WHP numbers ive been looking for.

Will keep everyone posted!