str8thugginit4ya

#1

Hey guys,

I was re-routing my battery to my trunk yesterday and after everything was complete, everything started up fine and was getting power to everything. I have a 150 amp ANL fuses on each side of the re-routing power wire. So if there's a short on either side, I should be protected. THE PROBLEM: is after I got everything installed, I realized that none of my interior lights was working. The lights on the a/c panel & the gauges are working. Just the door lights, trunk interior light, and main dome light is out & not coming on at all. I checked fuses and all are fine, what else could be causing the lights to cut out? Any help would be appreciated.

>>EDIT:>> >>>>I believe now that my problem maybe an ignition problem. My headlights won't turn on, unless I turn my key all the way to the "on" position. Plus, now I am getting a "hard start." Like my battery is about to die, but I just put in a new one when I relocated my battery position. I'm thinking, maybe it's a relay or something like that? Please, I need your help!>>>>

-Thanks, Ryan

This post has been edited by str8thugginit4ya: Feb 7, 2011 - 1:48 PM

95CelicaST

#2

Did you actually test the fuses? Or just a visual check? I've had some die that looked fine.

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1991 MR2 - T-tops - Crimson Red - Gen3 3SGTE - Lots of moneyI'm not really an asshole, but I play one on the internet.**** Photobucket

str8thugginit4ya

#3

Just visually. I was thinking it was a fuse problem, but all of them were visually fine. How else can i check the fuses? Oh, and which fuse is the fuse for the interior lighting? Is it the "dome" fuse that is located under my hood?


-Thanks, Ryan

mkernz22

#4

You check them by pulling them out and seeing if the metal piece in them is still connected or broken in two.

95CelicaST

#5

Yeah I've had some that look fine, but are actually bad. Pull the fuse and replace it with a known good fuse of the same rating from another circuit in the car.


I don't remember what the interior light fuse is.. I don't have a celica anymore.

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1991 MR2 - T-tops - Crimson Red - Gen3 3SGTE - Lots of moneyI'm not really an asshole, but I play one on the internet.**** Photobucket

str8thugginit4ya

#6

>

QUOTE (mkernz22 @ Jan 25, 2011 - 1:44 PM)

>You check them by pulling them out and seeing if the metal piece in them is still connected or broken in two.

I know I'm not an expert at these things, but you got to give me more credit than that! LOL, I know how to VISUALLY check the fuses (Which is what you just recommended). What "95CelicaST" was telling me, was to TEST them. I don't really know how to test fuses, cause I never did that before. So he suggested this:


>

QUOTE

>Yeah I've had some that look fine, but are actually bad. Pull the fuse and replace it with a known good fuse of the same rating from another circuit in the car.


I don't remember what the interior light fuse is.. I don't have a celica anymore.

mkernz22

#7

Well hey, you just never know sometimes
If the tab in the middle between the two prongs is broken, that means it's blown so there is no point in testing it then.
Just make sure the fuse you take out, the replacement one is the same color and has the same amp rating on it.
The one for the interior is either behind the panel under the dash or under the engine bay, you just have to search around

str8thugginit4ya

#8

Ok, so I went & replaced a bunch of fuses, but still no lighting. The worst part is that I have my boost gauge & that's not working either. I really hate when I can't see how much boost is pulling. I took a test light & there is current running to the "dome" fuse, which I believe is the fuse for the inside lighting. But I don't know what else this could be. SOMEONE HELP!!!!




-Thanks, Ryan

mkernz22

#9

The dome light has it's own fuse because I believe that the sunroof runs off that fuse as well.
With the old fuse panel that was under my dash, the previous owner did something to it so when I would drive with my driving lights on at night, they would go on and off from time to time. I replaced the whole interior fuse panel and it works like a charm now.

Maybe when you drilled the holes in the wall you hit a wire?

str8thugginit4ya

#10

>

QUOTE (mkernz22 @ Jan 26, 2011 - 8:44 AM)

>The dome light has it's own fuse because I believe that the sunroof runs off that fuse as well.
With the old fuse panel that was under my dash, the previous owner did something to it so when I would drive with my driving lights on at night, they would go on and off from time to time. I replaced the whole interior fuse panel and it works like a charm now.

Maybe when you drilled the holes in the wall you hit a wire?

Didn't drill any holes, use pre-existing holes with grommets. Only thing I can think of is that I shorted something out and blew something besides a fuse, which I hope is not the case.



-Thanks, Ryan

mkernz22

#11

When you open your doors does it make a bing, bing, bing sound?

str8thugginit4ya

#12

Nope, the ignition is not working properly. It starts and everything fine, but if I have the key in the ignition and the door is open, no bing!

mkernz22

#13

someone probably unplugged the wire that makes it bing when the doors are open, or they unscrewed the piece.

str8thugginit4ya

#14

>

QUOTE (mkernz22 @ Jan 27, 2011 - 3:00 PM)

>someone probably unplugged the wire that makes it bing when the doors are open, or they unscrewed the piece.

That can't possibly be it. Because the interior lights aren't turning on for nothing! Also, I was checking around and I can't turn on my headlights or anything like that unless I put my key in my ignition and turn it 2 clicks (I believe that's to the on position?)



-Ryan

str8thugginit4ya

#15

Could it be an ignition relay or something like that?



-Ryan

str8thugginit4ya

#16

Bump! Please help, I am out of ideas.


-Thanks, Ryan

tjblacrosse

#17

We just talked a little about this so I thought I'd write out the steps I would take:
- Batt. Health and Charge
- Fusible Link and Fuse check (use an ohmeter if you can get your hands on one!)
- Check your relays for proper continuity
- Check your connections you made to your battery relocation (grounds, to alternator, etc)
- If you have messed or played with any other electrical connections on the car, go back and check to see if they are good

Work your way back through the process you took relocationg your battery and make yourself a checklist so you don't overlook any steps. You'll find the problem eventually, just go through the circuit from top to bottom. I pulled up a power source chart for you, so you can see visually how the power flows. Good luck!

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-Tyler

Neon90424

#18

I had the bing bing bing thing removed it was driving me nuts, I have had problems where my dash clock didnt work or any of the accesories but it was just a fuse i believe

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What I think when you think I care

trdproven

#19

theres also a fuse that is labeled "X" you may want to check that one.

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str8thugginit4ya

#20

>

QUOTE (trdproven @ Feb 1, 2011 - 9:01 PM)

>theres also a fuse that is labeled "X" you may want to check that one.

A fuse??? Where is that located?



-Ryan

PluraticRaver

#21

From where your battary was, How did you hook up those wires?If it's not tight then you'll not get proper voltage- and loosing power to these accessories.

To test a fuse, Take your multimeter, and check continuity on both terminals. Even when a fuse looks good, it can still be bad. you want your continuity to be as low as possible. .001 is perfect.

str8thugginit4ya

#22

Fixed the problem! It wasn't a fuse problem or anything like that. The grommit that enters the car from inside the drivers side wheel well cut two wires. As I pulled the grommit out, I guess I pulled some wires and it cut on the edge of the metal. I didn't see any of the wires cut, because it was hiding INSIDE the grommit. So when I pulled it out this morning, there the two wires were. To all the people that tried to help, thank you VERY VERY much! I hope that you won't have to go through a thing like this, but if you have to, I hope I can help you the way you guys helped me.



-Again, thanks! Ryan.