i have some question, plz can someone answer it ?
those should be easy to anwser for any who did the swap

so

question#1 where does this fuel line goes ?



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question#2 where u plug this plastic bottle (the bottom of it)


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question #3 where do i plug that line ?



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question #4 how u setup this to this to this ?? plz


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question #5 where is the plug for this (lead prestone to the chargercooler) smic)






question# 6
where does that one goes ?


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questin #7 and finally this one , i dont know where it goes ?


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question#8 where this 2 plus goes ??


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thank for any help

This post has been edited by Needles: May 10, 2011 - 2:53 PM

1 looks like the fuel return line
2 is an overflow drain.
3 goes to your intake.

mount the waterpump the lines will all line up.

cant tell what 6 is
7 is for hte charcoal canister
8 is the bpv it gets attached to the airbox, or replaced by your BOV
and teh hose goes to the intake pipe.

thanks a lot presure2, im going back to work now

This post has been edited by Needles: Mar 30, 2011 - 10:11 AM

looking again, #6 looks like it could be the Ic level sensor plug, or the air box temp sensor plug

ok, i have setup the water inc pump, now i will plug my water inc pump custom to stay always on when running. fuel line connected,
and question the big thing is some king of bov ? i just leave it like that ? (for now) and the other one , i cant figure out where to plug it in the intake, im in some kind of hurry, is there a connection i missed ?


ok problem solved, only the question # 3 i didnt found where it goes,

This post has been edited by Needles: Mar 30, 2011 - 11:59 AM

Glad you posted this, and glad Manny is such a 3s guru. I had the same question as a few of those. Thank you both.

No 3 goes directly into the intake hose between airfilter and turbo. Just a ventilation line.

after i plugged all back in the harness and finish fixed last thing around the engine, i tried crank it up but, it doesnt crank , make no sound, only the light works, what is the first thing to check ?

(i weld 2 little extention for the tranny plug + - and i extend myself the wiring, each are well weld,and connect.)
all plug inside is connect,

on the harness,in the engine) there is 3 plug that is unplugged
the black, the blue and the gray plug,

the plug in the top head of tranny stay unplugged

100amp fuse look old but ok but old,

where should i start ?

This post has been edited by Needles: Apr 4, 2011 - 8:11 PM

solve

This post has been edited by Needles: Apr 17, 2011 - 4:00 PM

>
did you not do any wiring and try and start the car?
i dont understand what your trying to do.

there is only one wire on the interior plugs that needs to be done, for the clutch start switch.
all the other stuff is in the EA1 plug in the engine bay.

there are pics in my swap thread that show what needs to be done.

now i heard clic sound when i try starting the engine, i will go read ur swap thread right now, i have connected the black wire together , (the one split in 3 before the 3sgt cpu to the one in the ij1 plugf) to try complete the starting circuit, that make the clic lol, my fuel pump is already bypass (b+ and fp in diag....

ok interior plug done just like u do in ur progreesion thread pressure2 , now i will move on whit the ea1 plug setup
hey pressure2, i saw u use the body wiring clip from st205 to know where the missing wire from ea1 goes (3 wire each side of ea1) i dont have clip, i have only engine whit engine harness st205, can u show me where these 6 wire goes excatly from ea1 to engine plug? is this for intercooler and water inter pump ?

-i have connected ij1 plug whit black wire from white plug
shouldnt i being able to start engine now ?

if someone can tell me where the 6 (and i think another one...7) goes from ea1 plug thanks
p.s. i need to start the car to move it from my mom house, but before, i need fixing my boots that are spinning free(quote 300$) and extend my custom exhaust,and customised downpipe and put it on but i need to start the car be3fore going any further,

now it clic but no cranking

i need ea1 plug explain where do extra wire goes , thanks again for help, exceptionnally , pressure2

This post has been edited by Needles: Apr 10, 2011 - 1:31 PM

>
the extra wires are for the intercooler pump and FP relay.

You need to look at a GT4 build thread, those things are pretty straight forward. If I had my car with me right now I'd take a photo of everything showing factory fitment

i tried to look what does go to the negative pole of the battery, since i only have it wire to the transmission for ground and 2 body place, do i have to make extra groung for my st205 engine in my 1994 gts ? also, i have try a lots of thing todaYS and i cannot make it crank,

i also try a new full load battery-
positive direct to transmission-
check all the fuses again-
make extra ground-

everything work but it only heard clic near the cpu when a turn the key

maybe i missed 1 ground

hello again !

so im in triyng to make my car cranking, cauze it only clic and everything else works, im not electronic expert and i dindt had test the connectivity of each wire, but im pretty sure they are all well working

i have take a lot of picture to show here to know if im missing something in the wire. today i have made all new ground.

one from transmission to negative pole





i have plug direct wire from positive just to be sure it have power





also 2 wire from negative pole to ground body (1 in side fender 1 in the frond body)



i have ground the front body to the bolt of the cover valve of the engine



and while i boosted whit my other car (i had to buy this one cause my swap take too long) i try turn the key but only clic and nothing

do i missed some ground ?



ho yeah , dont know if i had to, but i grounded the cpu ... cauze it was not in place




and what is that little switch on the inside fusebox ?




i missed my car , now im driving a 93 probe and ford sucks !!!



help


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i pay 300$ for the probe, running fine...

that wiring is a MESS! (most likely your problem)

and I have no clue what that switch is for, probably an alarm.

>

its not a mess,i know its look horrible now, i just didnt clean it before take picture,

that switch is aftermarket, prolly for some type of alarm kill switch.

your grounds are good enough. the ecu dont have to be bolted in for the car to run.
i dont understand why you are pulling the harness apart like that and splicing in wires.
all that stuff that is attached to the motor is 100% plug and play, its all 3sgte stuff, with the 3s harness.
it sounds to me like your in over your head.
sorry to say it, but you are in the exact kind of situation that i discribe in my thread, where someone who dont have any idea what they are doing trys this stuff, and ends up right where you are.
why didnt you pull the harness, and pay tweak, or someone else to wire the thing for you?

Charge your battery and try again. If that doesn't work, send out the harness to get repaired.

>

i have pulled a part the harness like this cause the ea1 plug was not connected right in the box , i just unloom it to be sure ea1 plug is connected , i coulndt clic the white clap on it while in the box, soon i will start my car i will put back the harness in the box and make look clean.

the stuff is 100% plug and play but the positive end of the harness was too short and i had need extend it to reach the transmission

i found my mistake !! the plug for positive on the traNSmission was bad connected, missing the bolt behing, i fixed that,
boosting cable hook, turning the keyall light GOES DOWN ! AND BIG BIG WHITE SMOKE FROM THE GROUND WIRE ( valve cover to front body)the wire tottally burn , it is evidence that i get the starting circuit working, i notice some fuel get out of my filter (was not boltup tight) , but now the big problem is i have bad ground somewhere , and my only wire who burn is the ground engine to body, all other wire are intact. what kind of contact can cause this ?

every fuses is fine, every wire is fine, maybe just my ground setup ?

i think there is too much power goes in the ground wire ( the one who burn engine to front )that make it burn, so it have to be resistance somewhere else to cause that

This post has been edited by Needles: Apr 15, 2011 - 12:40 PM

????

Did you try to jump start it? The big smoke sounds like you connected the positive and negative wrong.


as for the starting circuit you need to get power to here (which just comes straight from the battery, the little wire ontop will be from a relay if not directly from the turn key.



Wait, I cant see the little wire. It should go into the tiny black casing above the mounting point for the chunky starter wire

This post has been edited by delusionz: Apr 16, 2011 - 4:53 PM

yo its there lol, its extend whit orange black wire

anyway i have 3 free day, i will try to find out tommorrow, im sure everything is ok, i will make nice ground setup i found for the 7gc i will show pic later

This post has been edited by Needles: Apr 17, 2011 - 12:43 AM

after i did a nice ground setup, 4gauge to tranny and all the way, and some other wire to ground everywhere needed,

the connector on my starter selenoid positive is loose, but is firmly tight bolted, is that normal, ?

i tryed crank up the engine after my setup, but nothing, no crank
only when i turn the key i heard 3 clic in the engine bay, and one clic from cpu when triyng to crank

any idea ?


the big smoke was the only ground wire and just overheat cause cannot hold the all the juice..

This post has been edited by Needles: Apr 18, 2011 - 6:05 PM

Check your battery? Can you hear a click from the starter motor?

Starter Does not Operate

When your starter does not operate at all, a simple test can tell which path to follow. Turn on the headlights and ask a helper to turn the ignition key to "Start." If the lights remain bright, start looking for an open or bad component in the starting circuit.

Use a test light to follow the current path along the starter circuit, beginning at the battery. Make sure each connection is tight and free of corrosion, dirt or grease. Ask your helper to turn the ignition to key to "Start" as you test each connection at the solenoid, neutral start switch (if equipped) and ignition switch. Your test light will tell you where the voltage stops when the



Read more: Toyota Camry Starter Problem | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/way_5724213_toyota-cam...l#ixzz1JxpJOGmw

i will try that today

I think I can see what your problem is, I think your piece of sh*t red wire to the starter solenoid cant flow enough juice when its just wedged into the terminal like that, nor is it meant to be permanently connected to power - it's supposed to be connected to the ignition barrel.

only 2 wires come should off the positive terminal (3 if you have an amp but forget about that for now) there should be that big fat wire supplying power to the actual starter (the one i circled red) and the other is a thinner wire which goes straight to the fuse box.

If you turn the key to the ON position (probably not even neccessary), use something that will decently clamp the positive terminal like a jumper lead set and connect the positive terminal to the wire on the small black connector, then the starter motor should turn and then you know you've fuct up the wiring somewhere along the way. If it should not turn at all or make just a click and not turn over then your battery is dead or the starter motor is f*cked.

i had try to boost it direct on the starter and...nothing
, tommorow i will have my car towed to my house and i will have more time to spend on it , here is the solution i will try from now


not from me..

Here's the troubleshooting procedure for you.

Your first goal is to determine the state of charge of your battery. Turn your headlights on and see how bright they are. If they are of normal brightness then you are probably OK. If you have a voltmeter, put it across the terminals of the battery. A fully charged battery will read around 12.5 volts, a dead battery will be less than say 11.8 volts. If your battery is dead, charge it and then proceed to the next step.

Next you want to find out if your ignition switch is sending power to the solenoid. A preliminary check for this is if your idiot lights dim when you turn the key to start, that's a good indicator that the ignition switch is functioning properly. To check for sure, get under the car and disconnect from the solenoid the wire that comes from the ignition switch. It connects to a push-on spade connector on the solenoid. Fuel-injected cars have two spade connectors on the solenoid. In that case, the ignition switch wire will be the heavier of the two wires. Disconnect the wire, then use your voltmeter to check for 12v at that wire. Put the positive lead to the wire and ground the negative lead, then have your helper turn the key to start. When your helper does this, you should read 12v at the wire. If not, suspect a defective ignition switch or a break in the wiring (or disconnected) wire between the battery and ignition switch or ignition switch and starter. Repair and try again. If you do have power at that wire, move on to the next step.

Next you want to see if the problem lies in the starter motor itself. Looking at the back of the solenoid, you will see two big post electrical connectors. What you want to do here (TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL -- PARKING BRAKE ON!!!!!!!!!!!!!) is grab a big screwdriver or a pair of insulated pliers. Touch only the plastic or rubber handle. You want to take this tool and short across the two big post terminals. Be prepared for some sparks, but hold the tool up there until you make a good connection. What you are doing here is connecting the battery directly to the starter motor, WITHOUT engaging the solenoid. So what should happen is that the starter motor will spin but will not crank the engine. It should sound like a regular electric motor, no gravelly or strange noises. If it does not spin or sounds really bad, have it rebuilt. If it works like it's supposed to, the motor is good so move on to the next step.

OK, you're now starting to run out of possible problems! The next test is to see if the solenoid is working. Here's how this goes. First, TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL -- PARKING BRAKE ON!!!!!!!. Look at the back of the solenoid. There are the two big post terminals you just played with. Look at the one on the right. You will see that there is simply a short heavy braided wire attached to it that runs down into the starter motor. What you want to do here is spike the positive lead of your voltmeter into this braided wire and ground the negative lead. Then have your helper turn the key to start. When your helper does this, you should hear a clunk and measure 12v with your voltmeter (additionally, the engine should be cranking as this happens). If you do not measure 12v, your solenoid is not activating and is not sending power to the starter motor. I had a case on my van where the solenoid would clunk but I was only measuring 1.5 volts at that braided wire, and the starter motor was not turning. I had the solenoid rebuilt at a shop and that solved the problem.

What you can also do to further test the solenoid is to remove the wire from the ignition switch from the solenoid. TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL -- PARKING BRAKE ON!!!!!!!. Take your screwdriver or insulated pliers and short the big post with all the wires to it to the terminal on the solenoid where the ignition switch wire plugged in. This will bypass the ignition switch and send full battery current directly to the solenoid. This should make the solenoid kick in and the engine should crank. If it cranks this way but not when you do the test in the paragraph above, then your solenoid works but it's either sticky or you have a big voltage drop when going through the ignition switch, possibly a dead ignition switch. The preceding parts of this test should have identified a bad ignition switch already, so if you've gotten this far and it works when you short the solenoid directly to battery power, you likely just have an old stick solenoid that needs a lot more current to activate than it's getting from the ignition switch. See below for your options.

If you do not measure 12v at the braided wire as above, then there are two possible situations. First is that you have the famous VW hot-start sticky solenoid problem. What you should do (and I recommend this as a first remedy to anyone who is experiencing the above problem) is to wire a relay into the circuit. The circuit is already marginal due to the lack of a relay from the factory and the long wiring path. Age and temperature of the wires serves to further degrade the situation. You can wire a relay into the system and starting reliability will be greatly improved. See my relay installation article for instructions.

If, after wiring in the relay, your situation does not improve, then you have to face the music -- your solenoid is toast. Remove the starter and have the solenoid rebuilt -- if your starter motor tests fine and you are short on cash, you may wish to just have the solenoid rebuilt, as I did. I took it to a local automotive electrical rebuilder and that solved my problem. Or you can go whole hog and exchange your starter/solenoid assembly for a rebuilt model bought at a parts store. This, however, can be quite expensive.

And that should do it, that's a fairly good troubleshooting procedure that ought to tell you where you stand and what you need to fix.

Sean Bartnik
April 6, 1998



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omg problem solved !

my ea1 plug was bad connected litteraly !! i took off the little plastic that cover the plug and the plug connect fine now, i need to fix some other thing before i try to crank, but i got some juice

This post has been edited by Needles: Apr 27, 2011 - 1:58 PM