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No Spark - 6G Celicas Forums

Topic #78746 42 posts Started by PolliS_5S-FE
Hi guys, recently i've been having a cranking issue that is getting gradually worse.

No longer starts at all, no spark. In the past 2 weeks ive changed the distributor, Ignition coil, dizzy cap, rotor, starter, leads and plugs.

This post has been edited by PolliS_5S-FE: May 11, 2011 - 9:41 PM
it might be running but not very efficient. did you change the fuel filter?

2001 Celica GT-S Turbo1997 Supra TT 6speed1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap1990 Celica All-Trac
its been ok on gas, nothing great but i still get about 140km per 17L at $2.16L over here. its idling fine and still accelerating like a champ. The fuel filter was done about 5 years ago lol. reckon it could be that? I would suspect running issues aswell as what i have if it was
just about not starting at all at times now
You could be loosing compression. I'd do a compression check. If it's not that then I'd like to think it's fuel related.

"God created turbo lag to give V8's a chance"
could low compression cause hard starts and no other problems??
try and change the little white box with a plug next to the igniter...looks like a its a mini coil relay or something...its clipped to the same bracket as the igniter and coil.

mine was bad which caused failed starts and misfires along with a bad igniter.
check and see if the fuel pressure regulator is bad. When those go bad, they cause hard starts. After running the engine pull the vacuum line out and if gas is in the vacuum line FPR is bad. [

2nd Gen 3s-gte.... It lives!97celiman"92-gt-quit making up random acronyms that dont mean anything. the only real acronym is JDM"
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This post has been edited by PolliS_5S-FE: May 7, 2011 - 7:54 PM
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This post has been edited by PolliS_5S-FE: May 7, 2011 - 7:54 PM
Fuel pressure regulators are connected to the fuel rail. It should have a vacuum line going to it.

2nd Gen 3s-gte.... It lives!97celiman"92-gt-quit making up random acronyms that dont mean anything. the only real acronym is JDM"
>
QUOTE (Stambo @ Apr 5, 2011 - 2:19 PM) *
>Fuel pressure regulators are connected to the fuel rail. It should have a vacuum line going to it.


the vacuum line is the one on the top?
pulled off the top one after running and there was no fuel that i could see or smell in it. (FPR)
Have you noticed if your getting fuel into the cylinders or not? Any idea how the fuel filter is?

2nd Gen 3s-gte.... It lives!97celiman"92-gt-quit making up random acronyms that dont mean anything. the only real acronym is JDM"
fuel filter was my next guess. Iti s fairly old so I should probably change it anyway. The car is idling fine so im guessing its getting sufficient fuel though. Had a hell of a time getting it going today at the supermarket frown.gif
Done fuel filter today, appeared to help at first but has gone back to the way it was since, checked fpr vacuum line again and no fuel in it..

Edit: this started happening about a month or so ago at the same time as I had battery problems, have replaced the battery since but problem persists.

This post has been edited by PolliS_5S-FE: Apr 11, 2011 - 9:25 PM
Just noticed when i finally do get it going it makes a sound almost like theres a belt slipping in the engine bay, ill have a listen to it tonite. im thinking maybe alternator? although the battery is charging fine.

edit: the sound is kind of like when you have the aircon on full and lights on etc like theirs a strain on the belt

This post has been edited by PolliS_5S-FE: Apr 12, 2011 - 10:35 PM
Have you happened to look at the plugs after these long cranks to see if they are fouled out? Also just curious to see if your timing is spot on.

2nd Gen 3s-gte.... It lives!97celiman"92-gt-quit making up random acronyms that dont mean anything. the only real acronym is JDM"
im getting CEL code 12 come up so im guessing thats the issue. but how to fix it im not really sure where to start. THe plugs are ok, were changed around 6 or 7 months ago, ill be changing them shortly though, been a bit slack on maintenance lately
Im leaning towards the distributor being faulty, there was no spark when tested yesterday but it seems to be intermittent. there is an oil leak coming from under the dizzy so im thinking there may be oil in the dizzy itself. Is there a method to test whether the distributor is faulty?
if you can get ahold of some info from a manual there are specs on the resistance of the distributor for the coils. I just had to check the same thing on my 3s distributor.

Atleast now you know that it is a spark issue not something else. What year celica is it again? i could try to pull up some info for your from my work.

2nd Gen 3s-gte.... It lives!97celiman"92-gt-quit making up random acronyms that dont mean anything. the only real acronym is JDM"
1994 5sfe. Yep, glad ive got that sorted but its strange, I wouldnt expect it to start at all, anytime if it had no spark but I can still roll start it most of the time
Okaaaaaay...

Today took the car (after roll starting) to the shops and came back, no worries. Went to roll start again and it didnt start. Tried my luck at cranking and the car started. Put it into first and went to take off and the car died, no electrics worked, no cranking, NOTHING. Disconnected the battery for ten min and put terminals back on, negative then positive, as I was putting the positive terminal back on it sparked HEAPS, far more than normal, and smoke started coming out from underneath the startermotor (not from the starter, just the area) aswell as melting a bit of the + battery terminal. I have no idea whats going on and I really need some help...
do u have a sound system with a compaciter? maybe the cap released its energy making the big jolt
You do know you hook up the positive first, then the neg side for the battery (and disconnect in opposite order)?
Ive always done negative first, thats what ive been told. Weird, regardless the problem happened before the terminals were removed and its still not workin for me :\. Im thinking its a bad earth but i'm not very good with electrics
You still pulling that code?
To me it sounds like your Idler control valve has gone bad, this is very common to our cars. The perpouse of the valve is to bypass the throttle body, the throttle body is controlled by your accelerator pedal when you have your foot of the pedal the throttle body is completely closed. When it is closed there is no air going into the engine, thats were the IAC valve comes in, it lets the air enter I'm assuming you also have a rough idle? thats because the valve is filthy and can't maintain a good idle, it maintains a good idle by opening and closing rapidly.

-FiveS-FTE biggrin.gif