Dudes, WOW are these things fast!! Had no idea it would be this quick....when I first laid into it, it actually kind of scared me....then when I changed gears to third from second, followed by the first whoooooooosh!!! Sound of my blitz d drive BOV, I feel like I'm in love, lol, but I do have a question for you guys, I thought factory 205's were around 13 psi boost.......mine for some reason is hitting 17-18 in second 15-16 in third and 14-15 in fourth, and I believe the same in 5th, is this something to be mindful of, is it hurting my baby, or perhaps I lucked out and got a WRC motor! But I don't know the boost settings on that motor, so I don't know????? Any input from you brothers and sisters would be awesome,
PS: safe celicaing

Welcome to the world of the turbo celica. Once boosted these cars are a blast to drive!

You have to remember that the "13psi" is with a restrictive factory exhaust. When people swap they usually install a downpipe and a free flowing exhaust and this ends up giving them more boost.

If you did install a downpipe (like a cheap ebay one), I would check to make sure the wastegate can swing open/closed freely and is not getting caught on the flange of the downpipe. Other than that, buy a manual boost controller and it will allow you to set the boost to a more constant level that you will be happy with.

You dont have a wrc motor, and even if you did it wouldnt have anything to do with the boost level.

This post has been edited by lagos: May 4, 2011 - 1:04 PM

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Lagos, yeah your right, I put a 3"'exhaust on, and I have a 3" XS Power DP, I did buy it off e-bay for $100 bucks, don't know if it's a cheap one or not, but do you think this much boost is hurting the engine???
All I know is it runs very clean and strong, it's almost like it wants more!!! I love it!!!
I also have a custom ram air intake system in my wheel well I have fabricated, the intake cone sits in one of the mouths on my bodykit, where the air hits it,
If this much boost does hurt it....is there a way to turn it down without a b-controler, or is the wastegate definitely stuck, maybe the custom ram Air system is causing a little more boost as well??????????
What is usually the standard boost a person could expect to gain on adding a DP, Exhaust, CAI , to one of these engines ( rough estimate )???

I can confirm, I have a WRC and stock it boosted to 13 psi in gear 2 and up.

I have a full 3" exhaust from the turbo back and I'm still only at about 13-14 psi. I also have a high flow cat welded in the mid-pipe.
Lots of people with gen 3's run with around 17 psi. I personally wouldn't go higher than that. 18 is getting close to fuel cut. In the long run, the more you're hitting 17 psi, logically the more wear and tear you're going to subject the engine / turbo to. Fuel cut (if it's still able to do so) won't let you boost to engine-killing levels.

How is boost being controlled currently?

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Hello Texasnick, boost is currently being controlled by the factory settings I guess...or the wastegate I suppose.....just tried first test run yesterday, and noticed how high my boost was hitting....that puts me a little more at ease with what your saying, cause I havn't had any fuel cut happen, maybe whoever had this motor before me did the mod to have it boost to 17psi. It's nice to know that this is the boost I'm pushing, and you say this is max boost, without doing things internally to motor....weird how it's pushing this much though????I know wastegate is not welded shut or anything because I was able to activate it with my hand pressure, when I was installing the motor and wanted to find out what it was, that's the piece located just inside the flange at the top elbow of the DP right...?
Anyways, confused why it's so high! Second gear scares me, cause I swear I hit either17 or18psi at around 5800-6000rpm, third is a little better toping out at 15psi, but second gear looked like boost was going to climb even higher! If I didn't shift gears when I did...! Scary, need more input
What do you mean about "if fuel cut is still able too" can it not cut out??

Wastegate pressure should be 10 psi pretty sure....it might be lower, like 7, but definitely not more than 10.

Fuel cut could have been disabled from whoever owned it previously, but you would have noticed a FCD attached to one of the ECU wires. Double check that your map sensor is plugged in and functioning correctly....that there are no leaks in the line going to it.

I assume you're using an aftermarket gauge to measure boost?

Does it creep to 17-18, spike to 17-18, or just hit 17-18 and stay there?

Someone mentioned it above, but check that the actuator arm for the wastegate isn't hitting your downpipe.

Is the ECU stock?

Definitely be careful as something is definitely not right and you're not 100% sure that fuel cut still exists. You should not be hitting 17+ psi on the stock ECU with no other form of boost control.

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Nick, is an FCD a little pink thing that clips onto the wire next to where it enters the back of the ECU clip? Kinda looks like a resistor.....I guess it doesn't matter cause Tweak did my wire harness and it no longer has that piece on there and all wires are in the right pin terminal location,
That said, Tweak actually tested map sensor over phone with me when T. Shooting, and it checked out perfect, as well, new hose going from it to intake manifold,
I am using an aftermarket boost gauge, and yes, it creeps up to 17-18, slows down more just after 15....the ECU is stock, in order to check my actuator bracket to see if it's hitting the DP, that means I have to take it off right...But how do I know it's hitting the DP, if I can't see it??? Will there be a metal mark on the inside of the DP where it's hitting?? Thanx for all this help,

do you ahve a wideband O2 sensor? as long as you are not pinging then you will be fine.

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What do you mean by pingIng? ( valves hitting )
Funny you asked about O2 sensor, bought a new one from a parts dealership, that had to swap over the 4 wire system that our o2's use..... Wonder if I should switch back to my original one....nothing wrong with it, just bought new parts when installing the motor.
I tell you man, when in 3rd gear at 17 psi at 6 rpm, it feels like your face is gonna ripp off!!! Damn it's fast!!

from reading everything i dont exactly think there is something wrong. i easily hit 1.1 bar~16psi in every gear except 1st. mods- 3in from turbo all the way back and hks intake. the stock ecu is mapped for it so if you dont hit the fuel cut you should be good. the wideband O2 sensor that they asked about i think they were referring to is with a gauge to monitor your A/F ratio. if you had that it would tell you if you had any problems. as long as your not leaning out i dont see any problem with running those boost levels. the internals will take way more then what your giving it. by the way i totally agree with you on the its fast thing. my buddy has a built 180sx, cams, bigger turbo, front mount, full standalone the whole shebang. all that work and i can keep up with him with my retarded heavy st205 with an exhaust and intake. ive had it up to 180K/hr and dont have the balls to take it any farther but i havent even maxed out 3rd i always shift early and it just keeps pulling and pulling..... and pulling!! lol. i would say check your compressing to make sure you can handle the boost, a good set of plugs, maybe an upgraded intercooler heat exchanger and hang on for the ride.

The CT turbos are funny, I can't pinpoint exactly what causes it, but even without modifications it can just suddenly lose ability to regulate boost.

Even testing the wastegate actuator and flap, trying disconnect the TVSV and block off, it still overboosts.

Basically the wastegate should keep the turbo down to 10psi nomatter what rev or gear, and the boost controller (either factory or aftermarket) should lift it only a couple psi from there.

pulling everything apart and inspecting and putting back together we couldnt find any obvious cause of overboost,

theres 2 ways to go about it, the first one being porting out the internal wastegate holes, the 2nd way (the best way) is a 38mm tial gate and tack weld the internal shut, and disconnect the actuator completely