I realize that it may not be toooooooooo noteworthy to some, But I just got my 20B in the mail today along with my new replacement Kouki tails . My injectors should be here by Monday or Tuesday and my UEGO and EGT setup by Wednesday. Hoping to have body work and all else finished by June 10th for CSP. Turbo looks nice except for some tape adhesive, nothing a little emery cloth won't fix though. No shaft play whatsoever and the turbine wheels look Pristine as far as any chips scrapes or irregularities go. See for Yourself







Had to throw the tails in for the hell of it.

Question though, are the waste gate actuators on the 26 and 20B the same? I know I should just look my self, but the parts are out in my car and it's late I'll look tomorrow.
my other question was about the fuel, do I need to use the FPR from the 540's in my car or is the existing sufficient? 2nd gen (existing FPR) to 3rd gen (new FPR)

greattt stufff right there it came fasttt. but i just found out for the down pipe the one off the ct26 wont fit but dr tweak makes them or can make it to fit on your ct20b turbo. im going to have to do the same for mine the only thing i hate about havin a st215 to much custom work u need done. but then again not to many people have a caldina. pictures pictures when you get it put on cant wait to see it on there gud luck man

No not the same.

CT20b has a 10psi actuator, I believe CT26 standard has a 7psi actuator.

It depends if you want to be able to run as low as 7psi I don't see why you can't use the CT26 actuator. You need/should have a boost controller either way.

After all I had a CT20b actuator on a CT26 housing.

the downpipe will fit, you just wont be able to use all the studs on the turbo. and the stock FPR will work just fine.

and as said already, the difference is the lowest pressure with can run on the actuators but your 20b will bolt on with no mods, same hoses and all just like the 26 was, so no need to modify anything during installation.



This post has been edited by Culpable04: May 7, 2011 - 11:44 PM

keep existing fpr until you can get a tune as changing your base pressure will mess up other areas of the fuel map

Thanks for the info fellas. I appreciate it from all.

Culp I thought you would be sleeping by now, message or call if you are still awake.

it wont mess up anything, is just like when a 2nd gen turns boost up using a boost controller, no side efffect to it other than POWER lol.

I say use the 20b just as it came, the injectors on the other hand you may want something to tune them with, I'm not sure if the stock 2nd gen ecu can handle the 540s on its own at idle and such.

fpr - fuel pressure, not boost pressure

Same with the injectors as Culp said, wait till you can tune

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misread that, you are right

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Caldina's are ridiculously common over here, specially the gt-t ones. Everyone gets them on finance
edit oh and foresters

This post has been edited by PolliS_5S-FE: May 8, 2011 - 12:20 AM

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Yeah but I live in the states. I haven't seen anyone with a caldina engine yet in person but I have seen a lot of 3rd gens and 2nd gen. I have seen a right hand drive gt4 along with skylines and all that gud stuff. wish I could get my hands on a right hand gt4 I would take the 3rd gen out and put a caldina engine in it. I like to do new stuff or stuff that's not done all the time different I guess haha

This post has been edited by brenton1919: May 8, 2011 - 12:43 AM

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Is it ok to run it like that? I've seen it done before. It won't leak? I'm just goin off of what easternpiro told me

This post has been edited by brenton1919: May 8, 2011 - 3:47 AM

So info as of now, use existing FPR, waste gate actuator difference (old)7 lb. min., (new) 10 lb. min., check on AFR tune for 540's.

I do have a Blitz Dual SBC, so I will make sure to keep the pressure out of the LEAN. I will also post plenty of pics, can't wait to feel the difference. I didn't think there was much lag at all to the 26, but I am told that the response is even better with the 20B, sooooooooooooooooooooooo... ...we'll see.

So I bid you all goodnight , will update tomorrow... ...crap tomorrow is mother's day, rats foiled again. Until Monday then, when I will hopefully be to the majesty of the 20B by days end.

Thanks again for the info and support guys & gal, Same Bat time Same Bat channel.

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once again late to the party! good luck bro!

pollis, i hear that caldinas are nothing but grocery getters on that side of the world! (according to 3way stunna in japan)

and brenton, now that i think about it, some of the studs wont match, but i guess better safe than sorry?


And x2 on pics!!

once again late to the party! good luck bro!

pollis, i hear that caldinas are nothing but grocery getters on that side of the world! (according to 3way stunna in japan)

and brenton, now that i think about it, some of the studs wont match, but i guess better safe than sorry?


And x2 on pics!!
[/quote] yeah me my self i wouldn't ride around without all of them in. but hey thats just me it didn't come like that so im going make sure mines is done the right way....... my great! saying you have to pay to play if u cant pay theres no need to play

it's all good with the 6 stud vs 7 stud, it's just the ct26 has 1 stud above the turbine exit, the 20b has 2 studs there, so you just dont use one of them, everything else lines up identical so it will be snug in there. no worries of exhaust leak from downpipe side of things. what you really want is a custom 3" ct20b downpipe (like the one berk makes for example) later on down the track when you tune with 540cc injectors

caldina gt-t is a great car too it offers gt4-like performance and traction with practicality of a station wagon, in many ways it is to the celica gt4 what the libero is to the evo, what the legacy wagon is to the wrx

This post has been edited by delusionz: May 8, 2011 - 5:12 AM

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damn, since u put it that way.... lol!

Apparently I am late as well tonight.

Delusionz, the existing downpipe is an XS power 3". Tomorrow is the day Boys and Girls. Can't wait, wanna go outside now and do it.

Installing bigger injectors on a stock ecu is a bad idea. The car will not run right and you will lose a lot of power.
You should just stick with the stock 440cc injectors like I and everyone else who has a 2nd gen and upgraded to a ct20b does.
The only time you would want to install bigger injectors would be if you were installing a stand alone ecu.

Its a good idea to read the 3sgte power primer for the 2nd gen, if you havent already done so.
http://www.mrcontrols.com/primers/power.htm

I read the primer awhile back, thanks for the reminder Lagos. I was planning on waiting for the tune or ecu uprgrade to install the injectors. I think I saw a rom tuned ecu on ebay actually. I'll have to check on that and other options in the next couple of days. Tomorrow I have alot to do to begin with I have a Uego and an Egt on order and they should be here at some point between Monday and Wednesday.

Any idea abou installing the Egt sensor, I was going to tap the exhaust manifold right before the turbo, but if anyone has a better idea let me know. Reason for this is that I know your supposed to install it around 8" away from an exhaust valve. To my understanding the stock runners on the manifold are somewhat of an issue, because of the length 2 of the runners. From what I have read they are prone to being much hotter than the others because they are shorter.



Whaddaya think?

ridiculous day, it's in. too tired though, only getting about 8-10 lbs boost pressure. haven't reset ECU though. going to bed hit you guys up tomorrow. oh and I will be posting a compressor housing "clocking" how to as well. I saw the one for the actuator retro fit but not one for actually spinning the housing.
Good night all.

are u talking about the factory egt? most people leave that out, it's only there to tell the ecu if the cat convertor is ok you dont have one though

and the bosch wideband sensor bung for the UEGO? that goes in your downpipe about the same distance from the turbo as your factory o2

some kits even have an output which can replace factory o2

Aftermarket EGT, I have a bung in my down pipe for the UEGO. LONG story short it is in but the waste gate is not returning to the full closed position. The actuator rod is to long, the steel of the plate to move the position of the actuator is too thin and keeps flexing. So while I had it in I bent the bracket that the actuator sits on (or so I thought), during that time I got incredible boost (compared to the 26) at about 50% of the Turbos max output according to my boost controller. That output @ 50% was about 10-11 psi. Spool up was very smooth and quick, torque steer is off the map though (need an LSD, Be calling you soon Culp). Since then though the steel of the bracket and or it's holding plate has had a chance to relax again, sooooooooooooo... ...Tomorrow is another day. Tomorrow I will be either re-bending the rod to the specifications in how to, altering the bracket to allow for the rod length, or cutting and welding the rod to the proper length of I believe it is 7 3/8.

I have pictures and such but I refuse to post them until I am finished (it's bad luck IMO). I should be completely finished with the gremlins tomorrow.

This post has been edited by Darkchylde: May 10, 2011 - 11:06 PM

if i may ask, why is the actuator rod too long?

Have to measure it, but either from not being bent exactly right or simply the spacing on the relocation plate.

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oh ok! i was thinking the original owner may have been putzing around with it or something... let us know how it comes out! (take pics?)

will do, have some pics but for superstitious reasons I am not posting them until any and all Gremlins are gone.

I see what you mean about the relocation plate,

I had a look at mine, yours actuator looks allright from that pic, maybe it needs to be brought up more or further towards the intake with some washers?

This post has been edited by delusionz: May 11, 2011 - 1:02 AM

Yes, same principle different theory.