I recently installed a new clutch, which I have done numerous times before and ever since, my car won't boost pass 11psi. I had it it set at 15-16psi previously. I double checked and readjusted everything I could possibly think of but it did not help. I don't think this is a boost leak but I may be wrong. So this morning I decided to disconnect the nipple coming from turbo to the actuator to see if boost will creep since the actuator is now disconnected. And still I will only boost to 11psi! So now I'm thinking maybe the wastegate is stuck open? or it this a boost leak? Car boost fine to 11psi with no signs of leak or hesitations. It just wont go pass 11psi regardless of weather I turn boost controller up or down. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I also installed new plugs, wires, dist cap & rotor hoping to solve this but it didn't make any difference.
Thanks

This post has been edited by malecrod: May 8, 2011 - 1:25 PM

>i had the same problem in my srt-4 but i had a vac leak i would check all of your hoses you may have a bad wategate just a little info from me maybe someone could help u a little bit more

Okay, thanks. I will check for air leaks.

if you disconnected the actuator, did you cap off the line to the compressor? if you didnt then you would have a huge boost leak. if you did and still only got 11PSI with no wastegate, your turbo is toast.

what you did is very dangerous. no wastegate will allow the turbo to spool until it cant make anymore which is well in the 30psi range. you could have blown your engine. somethign is definatly wrong if you pulled that line and still only got 11psi.

Yea it was risky thing to do. I actually didn't cap off the compressor nipple I left it open. I will check the turbo itself too to see this pm. It's just strange that it started right after clutch change. My turbo is clocked also with a bracket So I'm thinking that's an area to look into.

>
That's funny, your tryin to get yours up, I'm tryin to bring mine down... ECU, wastegate stock, only have DP/Exhaust/Intake/BOV done and for some reason I'm cranking 20lbs. Don't know how to bring it down....?????

It sounds like both of your problems have to do with your waste gate actuators. I just had a similar problem if you have the resources remove the lower line on the actuator, remove your heat shield, apply air to the vacuum line that you just removed watch the area where your waste gate actuator connects to the turbo housing. Check to see if the arm returns on it's own, touch it if you can to see if it has returned to the fully closed position. If when you touch it it springs back home then it is not closing and your bracket is either out of place or bent or your actuator rod got bent during removal or installation. Or you just didn't end up in the same exact place.

Low boost = stuck open
High boost = stuck shut

Also check for waste gate clearance on you down pipe if you have swapped turbos, not all waste gates are the same size.

This post has been edited by Darkchylde: May 13, 2011 - 12:51 PM

I think you are right on the money. I have thought about it and thats the only conclusion I kept coming to. Because whenever I remove the transmission, the bracket for the clocked turbo is always hagging loose on the actuator. And it is the only part of the turbo unit that has to be removed and bolted back. I have noted that when I losen the bolts that hold the bracket to the transmission a little, boost drops down, and when I tighten it, it goes up. Then thing is it is tighten all the way down to max and I'm stuck at 11psi. So i will try your suggestion this weekend. I may have to take out the downpipe to actually see if the wastegate is fully closing or not. it just a pain to take out because I have to remove the AC lines out of the way, making me lose refrigerant. I appreciate your input.

If your down pipe is anything like mine, you have an O2 sensor on the top of the pipe:

you don't have to remove the pipe, you can remove the O2 sensor and look into the hole with a flashlight to see if the gate is still open. Also you can just reach behind the flange and feel the waste gate arm, try to just tap or push it back toward the actuator if it pops shut then you definitely are having space/placement issues. If this is your problem recheck your actuator arm measurement against this:
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=40547&st=0

From there if your measurement is correct, make a new plate if the old is flimsy. If the measurement is off re-bend. If the measurement is not off, then you will either have to find a way to move the bracket that your actuator is mounted to. Or bend that bracket in such a way that you do not alter the travel of the actuator rod too drastically. Hope this has been helpful, I just happened to luck upon this right after I was having a similar issue.

I just swapped my CT 26 for a CT 20B, after the install was said and done I got in ready to boost my @$$ of and was only getting like 5 psi. I went on to check everything over and had a couple of loose intake hose clamps but that was all. So I hooked my actuator up to my airbrush compressor and activated it, when I released the load and looked through my O2 bung I noticed that the gate itself was not returning fully but the actuator rod was. Thusly too little distance from the actuator to the gate arm. Long story short I re-bent the bracket a little took her for a run @ 50% on the boost controller and viola 10-11 psi.

I am no expert, and you may have other issues, I am just offering insight based on a recent experience so please make sure to check all other connections as well, and check everything that I have described to have come to my diagnosis. I hope this is your only issue and that the information helped, I have received much help and support on these forums since I got my SWAPPED Celica. I hope to return the favor at least as many times as it has been afforded to me.

This post has been edited by Darkchylde: May 13, 2011 - 12:53 PM

Oh thanks man. I didn't think of looking thru the oxygen sensor hole. That's awesome. Will try that. I think my problem is exactly what u described. I will report what I find this weekend. I'm thinking of unclocking the turbo all together and going WRC air to water to simplify things, if I can get a good deal on one. Or designing a new location for the bracket to bolt on.
Thanks Man, I know what u mean. Prior to 6gc, I only knew how to do oil change, but now I have only taking car in for timing belt change and alignments since the swap. Otherwise I do everything else including welding my exhaust etc, it's amazing how much I have learned from this site!

How'd it go?

u make a good point about the door not opening fully, i might check that on mine too. my boost doesn't wanna stay down either haha

>

Will be working on it tomorrow. Will let u know. I got a used WRC turbo in good shape that I'm going to fabricate a different bracket for. Will let u know how it all goes. Thanks.

Yea defiantly sounds like a wastegate problem. It's also possible to have a very weak spring or a crack by the wastegate flap.

Thanks Everyone!!!
It was the Actuator! Basically I ended up loosening the downpipe so I can see the wastegate clearly. The wastegate is shut closed. But looking at the wastegate when I apply pressure to the inlet nipple on the actuator with a bike pump, I noticed that the entire actuator moves forward even before the rod moves. This was essentially opening the wastegate prematurely. So I ended up welding a piece of metal to keep it in place. Pics below. Problem is solved!!! So what was happening was that the bracket for the clocked turbo is so thin that its flexes and not able to hold the actuator unit in place causing the wastegate to open up prematurely long before the actuator rod begins to move. Photos of my welding below:

As promised, I'm posting my version of alternative to the bracket/ clocking the turbo. I have not install the turbo on yet to see if it all works properly. But I will let you know when I do.
So I recently had issue with my bracket for clocking the turbo as in above posts. I decided to find another way of doing this on a WRC turbo I recently bought. The only thing is there is welding involved, but otherwise I kept the actuator in exact same location as OEM by doing all the measurements and welding before removing the actuator. Good thing about doing it this way I think, is that you can adjust the actuator up/down by losing the nuts that are keeping it in place. See pic below. Never mind the welding, still learning, need to clean/brush off this thing a bit. Like I said, I have not installed it yet, waiting on some new exhaust studs to get here first. I don't expect any fitment issues but you never know... Any comment welcomed.


This post has been edited by malecrod: May 24, 2011 - 2:11 PM

christ.... whatever works eh? lol