Engine has to come back out, the reason the transmission went on so easily is most likely the 21 spline count friction disc (from the 3SGTE kit) on the 20 spline shaft. I should have used the smaller 5S friction disc but we were concerned with the mating surfaces. I see now from one of Manny's old 5SFTE days that using the smaller 5S friction disc is fine. (I'm not putting down near as much HP as he is either).

F!@K

Car's running.

Drove it home from the shop last night - car won't rev over 3-45k, sometimes higher, we narrowed down the issue to either the distributor housing (as the cap and rotor were replaced in the rebuild) or the wire harness. But as the portion of the wiring harness that goes to the distributor wasn't touched and remains intact, I'm pretty sure its the distributor housing. The pickups are struggling under load to keep up. So, I need a spare unit from a 3rd Gen 3SGE/3SGTE to test with, and then sink another few hundred into it to get it running properly.

Car was fun to drive though. New shifter assembly/clutch/lightweight flywheel really went well together. Engages quickly and the shifts are very solid despite missing the plastic shifter grommet thingy. Engine sounds mean at idle, and I can tell it really wants to GO. Really too bad about the dizzy.

LIST OF THINGS TO DO NOW:

[ ] - test out dizzy with known working one
[ ] - replace dizzy (if, that IS the issue)
[ ] - replace fuel VSV and reconnect lines; currently they're bridged and not running through the broken VSV
[ ] - fix ignition wire; old command start unit spliced into the unit between the key ignition and interior fuse box panel somewhere (need to tear the panels off under steering wheel to fix)
[ ] - fix/replace turn signal blinking relay
[ ] - troubleshoot the driverside window switch, doesn't roll down/up; contacts might just need cleaning
[ ] - find spacer bushing for Cusco front pillowball mounts; too much of a gap causes loud thunk on smallest of bumps.
[ ] - connect/wire up projectors/ballasts
[ ] - connect/wire up JDM repeaters
[ ] - clean up rotors/calipers (paint touch up); gotten a little rusty from sitting all these years
[ ] - reshape rotor guards as they rub on rotors while driving
[ ] - clean up/polish muffler
[ ] - Plasti-Dip car, body panels, and apply all body panels.
[ ] - find rims/summer tires (currently only have facelift GTFour stockies w/ winter tires )
[ ] - monitor engine for leaks; minor oil leak during start up/testing, seems to have gone away

Glad to hear you have it running! Good luck with the next few steps of getting a reliable fun driver!

awesome that you got it running and get to drive it

Now it's time to enjoy the shyt out of it

>

Going to try... need to troubleshoot the dizzy first so that it can actually rev. But yes - the drive home was fun!

Ok - long overdue update for anyone that cares.

Swapped out the dizzy with a working one from a ST205, and the same issue was prevalent.
Was about to tear apart the exhaust, thinking it was a flow issue, when I had a thought, "What if its the new O2 sensor?"

... so I unplugged it from the harness, and viola, the engine runs properly now. (sans O2 sensor )

Bizarre, the O2 sensor is brand new, and I have yet to take it out of the piping to look at the ceramics, but has anyone else had an issue like this?

Also, I think the lightweight flywheel, combined with the polyurethane motor mounts are causing too much vibration in my engine bay... I've lost a handful of nuts, bolts, etc and noticed last night that the nut came off of my front engine mount and the bolt was almost gone. I went through and re torqued what I could get at easily without a lift, etc.

^^^ Anyone else had that happen on a fresh built engine?

The last thing that concerns me greatly is the amount of leakage from the transmission side of the engine, there doesn't appear to be oil on the flywheel, but the oil has to be coming from somewhere... any chance the bell housing could be leaking trans fluid into it somewhere?

I hooked up the HIDs and buttoned everything back up last night. Needed to drive my car to work today...



The drive was pretty smooth. I have no radio so I had to listen to the exhaust drone the whole way into Calgary, meh.

I made it to work ok, the car dropped down to 600rpm when it wasn't in gear a couple of times and scared me a little bit, I thought it was going to stall out...

I'm leery about driving it still, as I just don't think I trust it just yet, does that make sense?

Anyways, here she sits at my work, waiting for another run...



This post has been edited by KAOS: May 20, 2015 - 1:33 PM

look at that snow....

>

That's Calgary for ya. Don't like the weather? ... just wait 5 minutes.

how does it run? i still need to pull mine back out and do a few things here and there. clutch flywheel etc.

>

Seems to run ok, despite not having an active O2 sensor, I guess... Pretty solid actually. Responsive, but then again I haven't driven it in 6 years, and a lot has changed since then (suspension, etc).


>

This post has been edited by KAOS: Sep 11, 2014 - 3:30 PM

Have you tried pulling codes yet? You probably have and I missed it. Unplugging the O2 sensor will cause the ECU to dump fuel, which may be hiding the real issue if something else is causing it to run lean.

>

When it was sputtering etc (with the o2 sensor plugged in) there were no codes stored.

I haven't tried since then to pull codes though - there's no CEL however with the O2 sensor unplugged, not sure what to make of that...

My BEAMS will only light the CEL up for the really important things, not for stuff like the O2 sensor. The 3rd gen 3S-GE could be the same way. You know for sure that you have to at least have a code 5 or 21 for the O2 sensor.


1 Normal Condition.
2 Air Flow Meter signal.
3 Ignition signal.
4 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor signal.
5 Oxygen Sensor.
6 RPM signal (Crank Angle Pulse).
7 Throttle Position Sensor signal.
8 Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal.
9 Vehicle Speed Sensor signal.
10 Starter signal.
11 Switch signal.
11 ECU/ECM.
12 Knock Control Sensor signal.
12 RPM signal.
13 Knock Control CPU (ECM).
13 RPM signal.
14 Turbocharger Pressure.
14 Ignition signal.
15 Ignition signal
21 Oxygen Sensor.
22 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor signal.
23 Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal.
24 Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal.
25 Air-Fuel Ratio Lean.
26 Air-Fuel Ratio Rich.
27 Sub Oxygen Sensor signal.
28 No. 2 Oxygen Sensor signal.
31 Air Flow Meter signal (Vacuum Sensor signal).
32 Air Flow Meter signal.
34 Turbocharger Pressure signal.
35 Turbocharger Pressure Sensor signal.
35 HAC Sensor signal.
39 VVT-i
41 Throttle Position Sensor signal.
42 Vehicle Speed Sensor signal.
43 Starter signal.
51 Switch signal.
52 Knock Sensor signal.
53 Knock Sensor signal.
54 Inter-cooler ECM signal.
71 EGR System.
72 Fuel Cut Solenoid signal.
78 Fuel Pump Control signal.
81 TCM Communication.
83 TCM Communication.
84 TCM Communication.
85 TCM Communication.

LIST OF THINGS TO DO NOW:

[X] - test out dizzy with known working one
[ ] - replace fuel VSV and reconnect lines; currently they're bridged and not running through the broken VSV
[X] - fix ignition wire; old command start unit spliced into the unit between the key ignition and interior fuse box panel somewhere (need to tear the panels off under steering wheel to fix)
[ ] - fix/replace turn signal blinking relay - >>parts ordered, on the way!>>
[ ] - troubleshoot the driverside window switch, doesn't roll down/up; contacts might just need cleaning
[X] - find spacer bushing for Cusco front pillowball mounts; too much of a gap causes loud thunk on smallest of bumps. kindasad.gif <- just reinstalled stock upper strut mounts
[X] - connect/wire up projectors/ballasts
[ ] - connect/wire up JDM repeaters
[X] - clean up rotors/calipers (paint touch up); gotten a little rusty from sitting all these years
[X] - reshape rotor guards as they rub on rotors while driving kindasad.gif
[ ] - clean up/polish muffler biggrin.gif
[ ] - Plasti-Dip car, body panels, and apply all body panels. biggrin.gif biggrin.gif
[ ] - find rims/summer tires (currently only have facelift GTFour stockies w/ winter tires frown.gif )
[X] - monitor engine for leaks; minor oil leak during start up/testing, seems to have gone away - >>replaced REAR MAIN SEAL, now clutch slave is leaking... >>
[X] - troubleshoot faulty O2 sensor - >>was a bad ground on the harness... O2 sensor works fine now>>

This post has been edited by KAOS: Oct 6, 2014 - 2:03 PM

Progress!!

Hey you wouldn't remember anything about the dual muffler setup at all do you? I'm kind of open to trying something like it and want to know what mufflers were used for it if you remember or know.
>