yes you will hear that air sound, thats totally normal. Your compression numbers are perfect too. its possible that your fuel pump is failing and you are running lean or your injectors might be really clogged.

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Nah man the e-brake releases properly, I tested it on a hill and everything, cause i was thinking it may be dragging.

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The weird thing is under factory distributor positioning you can smell that its running rich -_- if the vacuum test yields no indications that I'm just lost

I'll cherish the day that I get this diagnosed. You guys have all been an amazing help.

fuel pressure regulator? I don't know... what else would cause it to run rich like that? If it was something that confused the ECU, it would have relearned everything by now I would imagine. I mean it changes A/F all the time with varying conditions. Because your problem developed after a pressure washing I would stay focused on electronics and locations of seals.

did you check your air filter^? hahaha

This post has been edited by Needles: Oct 27, 2011 - 11:23 AM

Check the lines to the MAP sensor.

Might also try to O2 sensor.. but if its lacking power even at WOT I wouldnt think the O2 is at fault as the ecu ignores pretty much every sensor at WOT other than RPM, knock sensor(?!?!) and MAP.

^x2 = if water got in an around that MAP and somehow threw it off but not enough to throw a code, the ecu could be dumping in the fuel. For instance if it's reporting a -20F temp or miscalculating the flow of air or something that would make the ecu dump the fuel to it..... work an inspection anyway. May not even be "water" but maybe something like water deposits, calcium etc.

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I would never spray an engine with water because the water is going into your harnesses and creating rust/coorrosion. The lube or silicone from the factory is long gone.
I would say you have a few corroded connectors. It happened after spraying car with water so I don't think your timing jumped. If you sprayed your injectors ect. with the water it could be very likely you caused the connectors to corrode mabey others as well. I would clean them all. Look at them and use a small wire(copper)brush
on any iffy ones and set the timing back to normal. Good Luck.

So we tested the vacuum and it was at 21hg, I unplugged the MAP sensor and the car ran worse so the sensor is not necessarily bad but may be misreading. I'm going to a junkyard tomorrow to pick up another MAP sensor and possibly other parts. We are planning on taking off the EGR tomorrow and seeing if its clogged. Also going to check TPS sensor but I am running out of ideas. To recap it is still running RICH(you can smell it) when the distributor is at factory positioning. This has been a year long process so I'm in no hurry. The car still goes down the road, I'd just like for it to be running as good as it possibly can. Thanks for all the help

UPDATE: We replaced the MAP sensor as well as the TPS (throttle position sensor) today with no luck. Car still runs the same. I got a set of 3sfe injectors from a junkyard and am going to swap them to see if any of the injectors are bad. Also going to clean out EGR. After that I'm running out of ideas

EGR and injectors checked out

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Thinking I'm going to try another distributor and change the timing belt next

might sound stupid but when my battery was going bad on my 91 gt she ran rough an felt under powered
so might want to test that an your alt
oh an check the fuses to I had a one that made her bog down little to can't remember what fuse
hope that helps

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Thanks will do. Anything is a possibility at this point