So as the title goes, I had my car on a lift, engine on and in neutral, and the front passenger wheel was encountering a decent amount of resistance when spinning. I can only guess it's the caliper. Interestingly, the passenger rear is experiencing the same problem, only its the shoes against the drum. A guy I worked with suggested it's a bad caliper, which is also causing uneven pressure distribution in the back locking it up as well. I'm just thinking if the caliper itself is bad, or I just need to bleed the brakes and see if there's stuff in there. What do you guys think? And is the procedure for bleeding pretty easy with these cars? The old horse is pretty weather worn, so I'm worried I might snap something off the release valve when I try and bleed it.
Caliper's locking up - 6G Celicas Forums
the front is seperate from the rear IIRC.
bleeding is the same as every other brake system. open furthest from the master cyl, bleed, close, next furthest, bleed, close, etc.
I dont think its a bleeding issue though.. thats more of a not enough pressure/spongy feeling thing
bleeding is the same as every other brake system. open furthest from the master cyl, bleed, close, next furthest, bleed, close, etc.
I dont think its a bleeding issue though.. thats more of a not enough pressure/spongy feeling thing
QUOTE"And, as always, your friendship, help, and dedication to the advancement of Texas Celica dominance is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks bro." -DEATH1994 GT:V6 swap, 5speed E53 W/ LSD, All Power, now RED1995 ST:SOLD @273k miles, Auto, all power, CarPC, White1994 ST:Totaled, 5spd, all power, RedRIP 07/09/09 @ 241,8101994 Lexus LS400:This is my new DD
Hmm, well I just think it's odd that both brakes on the same side go bad at the same time. Would you suggest just going ahead and replacing the caliper?
depends on how much load its putting on the wheel. most brakes will drag slightly. the wheel should spin for 5+ seconds with a good hand spin.
QUOTE"And, as always, your friendship, help, and dedication to the advancement of Texas Celica dominance is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks bro." -DEATH1994 GT:V6 swap, 5speed E53 W/ LSD, All Power, now RED1995 ST:SOLD @273k miles, Auto, all power, CarPC, White1994 ST:Totaled, 5spd, all power, RedRIP 07/09/09 @ 241,8101994 Lexus LS400:This is my new DD
Well, the wheel won't spin for 5 seconds with just a hand spin. I'd say it goes maybe 2 or 3 seconds. The shoes in the back are also wearing prematurely; I took the drum off and there was a considerable amount of brake dust. Which, by the way, they don't use asbestos anymore do they?
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Yes they still do, spray with an old spray bottle of water to mist the area before working that helps alot. Anyway with drums clean and lube all moving parts especially e brake cable connections after rusting those things can grab. On the front caliper it seems strange to have drag unless it to was rusty and or dirty preventing it from easing back after you take your foot off the brake. Take off the pads and use a c clamp and set it back in a little and clean the caliper then carefully drive and let your caliper readjust at LOW speed. Mabey it will solve.
QUOTE (senick @ Oct 14, 2011 - 10:01 AM) 
>Well, the wheel won't spin for 5 seconds with just a hand spin. I'd say it goes maybe 2 or 3 seconds. The shoes in the back are also wearing prematurely; I took the drum off and there was a considerable amount of brake dust. Which, by the way, they don't use asbestos anymore do they?
Yes they still do, spray with an old spray bottle of water to mist the area before working that helps alot. Anyway with drums clean and lube all moving parts especially e brake cable connections after rusting those things can grab. On the front caliper it seems strange to have drag unless it to was rusty and or dirty preventing it from easing back after you take your foot off the brake. Take off the pads and use a c clamp and set it back in a little and clean the caliper then carefully drive and let your caliper readjust at LOW speed. Mabey it will solve.
Seized calipers generally are an issue with the sliding bushings, or (much more rarely) the piston.
You can replace the caliper, but it can be just as easy to disassemble and lubricate the various moving parts. Even the piston seal should have a touch of glycol soap-based lubricant on it when the piston is installed. Testing is simple -- can you slide the caliper on its bushings by hand? If not, disassemble, clean, inspect, and if the parts are still nice and smooth, lubricate and reassemble. If the bushings are corroded, replacement's a good idea. If you cannot disassemble it by hand (hand tools included), replace the caliper. Rebuilding a caliper which requires a press to disassemble is more work than its worth for the individual car owner.
You can replace the caliper, but it can be just as easy to disassemble and lubricate the various moving parts. Even the piston seal should have a touch of glycol soap-based lubricant on it when the piston is installed. Testing is simple -- can you slide the caliper on its bushings by hand? If not, disassemble, clean, inspect, and if the parts are still nice and smooth, lubricate and reassemble. If the bushings are corroded, replacement's a good idea. If you cannot disassemble it by hand (hand tools included), replace the caliper. Rebuilding a caliper which requires a press to disassemble is more work than its worth for the individual car owner.
have you tried driving a decent distance and then carefully feel your wheel if its hot? I think your caliper needs a rebuild they sell kits.
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you can try rebuilt the 2 little piston of the galiper yourself, by sanding it and put new grease,
for the big piston, you can try put him back whit a vice-grip kind of tool...( the big clamp vice grip )
or whit a hammer and a tool, gentlely put the cylinder into place until it reaches end, and push the brake pedal so it expend again, and push it back on whit vice grip[ again, and again
this proceep helped me one time get back from bad caliper but its not gonna work for a long time, maybe, or maybe not, and its maybe not gonna work at all, but if you want to try something, ....
This post has been edited by Needles: Oct 25, 2011 - 7:14 PM
for the big piston, you can try put him back whit a vice-grip kind of tool...( the big clamp vice grip )
or whit a hammer and a tool, gentlely put the cylinder into place until it reaches end, and push the brake pedal so it expend again, and push it back on whit vice grip[ again, and again
this proceep helped me one time get back from bad caliper but its not gonna work for a long time, maybe, or maybe not, and its maybe not gonna work at all, but if you want to try something, ....
This post has been edited by Needles: Oct 25, 2011 - 7:14 PM
I had a few problems like this when I had my celica and I rebuild the caliper and it did nothing, the slider pins were still shiny and i relubricated which did nothing, in the end new pads seemed to fix the problem but that could be due to the fact they were better although I would of thought they'd brake harder but still lock up on one side but it was perfect after!
Before I sold it realized the rear discs had a lip so it could of been that also.
My point here is there is alot of things it could be and its one of those things that you're gonna have to replace alot to get to, I suggest just popping the pistons out and giving them a light sand with LIGHT sand paper and a clean providing your discs aren't warped and your pads are even, I know I had alot of trouble getting rebuild kits here but if you can get them for cheap then start there! its easy.
Before I sold it realized the rear discs had a lip so it could of been that also.
My point here is there is alot of things it could be and its one of those things that you're gonna have to replace alot to get to, I suggest just popping the pistons out and giving them a light sand with LIGHT sand paper and a clean providing your discs aren't warped and your pads are even, I know I had alot of trouble getting rebuild kits here but if you can get them for cheap then start there! its easy.