Has anyone put LED's in their climate control, if so what size LED's did you use and what resistors did you use?
LED climate control - 6G Celicas Forums
get Spree's LED kit. 
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X2 on the spree kit.led's are exactly what you want and in several colors+ it's always nice helping out a fellow 6gc'r
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Thanks for the plug guys. :-)
I supply smd led's in your choice of color that you swap with the standard bulbs into the standard holders so no messing about with soldering and a good result.
I supply smd led's in your choice of color that you swap with the standard bulbs into the standard holders so no messing about with soldering and a good result.
www.SpreeLED.comFacebookYoutubeSMD LED CONVERSIONS FOR ALL TOYOTA CELICA GEN 6 - DASH - COURTESY LIGHTS - SIDELIGHTS - LICENCE PLATE BULBS - BRAKE LIGHTS
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fcVch3lp45I&feature=feedu
That's the setup in my 2002 Corolla. For the climate cluster, I used 9 LEDs total:
-Around the temp knob there are 2 blue LEDs (rated 3.2v each) and 3 red LEDs (rated 2.1v each).
-Around the fan knob there are two white LEDs, and around the vent selector there are another two white LEDs (all white LEDs rated 3.2v).
These two branches of resistors are hooked up to the +VCC source that the original bulbs hook up to (observe polarity, check with a DMM), with a 100-ohm resistor in series with both branches to limit current in case battery voltage jumps above 12v (as happens when the car is running).
The AC, defrost and recirculate buttons all have their own LEDs, one white to light it (with 3.2v white LEDs, I used the single LED and a 560ohm resistor to hook up a single LED to a bulb power source) and a red as an indicator.
That's the setup in my 2002 Corolla. For the climate cluster, I used 9 LEDs total:
-Around the temp knob there are 2 blue LEDs (rated 3.2v each) and 3 red LEDs (rated 2.1v each).
-Around the fan knob there are two white LEDs, and around the vent selector there are another two white LEDs (all white LEDs rated 3.2v).
These two branches of resistors are hooked up to the +VCC source that the original bulbs hook up to (observe polarity, check with a DMM), with a 100-ohm resistor in series with both branches to limit current in case battery voltage jumps above 12v (as happens when the car is running).
The AC, defrost and recirculate buttons all have their own LEDs, one white to light it (with 3.2v white LEDs, I used the single LED and a 560ohm resistor to hook up a single LED to a bulb power source) and a red as an indicator.
~Moving on to a 2002 Corolla S~R.I.P Tom Celica - 1994-2010
looks pretty good for non-soldered.
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Spree, do I have to solder leds on the cc unit?
God made man....Everything else...Made in China
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Certainly not! ;-)
The LED's I supply are threaded into the standard bulb holders and refitted.
QUOTE (nics @ Nov 7, 2011 - 6:11 PM) 
>Spree, do I have to solder leds on the cc unit?
Certainly not! ;-)
The LED's I supply are threaded into the standard bulb holders and refitted.
www.SpreeLED.comFacebookYoutubeSMD LED CONVERSIONS FOR ALL TOYOTA CELICA GEN 6 - DASH - COURTESY LIGHTS - SIDELIGHTS - LICENCE PLATE BULBS - BRAKE LIGHTS
I see. The indicators are the ones that need to be soldered and your kit doesn't include that.
I was thinking of getting the gauge cluster again because the SMD LEDs from ebay that I got has a greenish tinge on the speedometer.
I was thinking of getting the gauge cluster again because the SMD LEDs from ebay that I got has a greenish tinge on the speedometer.
God made man....Everything else...Made in China
>
That is correct. Its the backlighting that is covered in my kit.
Are you saying that the blue led's you got on ebay for the speedometer are greenish? i have seen that before.
The ones I have in stock now are very blue. More blue then the ones I used to get. I'm in the process of swapping the bulbs over in my dash now actually.
This post has been edited by Spree: Nov 7, 2011 - 7:40 PM
QUOTE (nics @ Nov 7, 2011 - 6:51 PM)
>I see. The indicators are the ones that need to be soldered and your kit doesn't include that.
I was thinking of getting the gauge cluster again because the SMD LEDs from ebay that I got has a greenish tinge on the speedometer.
I was thinking of getting the gauge cluster again because the SMD LEDs from ebay that I got has a greenish tinge on the speedometer.
That is correct. Its the backlighting that is covered in my kit.
Are you saying that the blue led's you got on ebay for the speedometer are greenish? i have seen that before.
The ones I have in stock now are very blue. More blue then the ones I used to get. I'm in the process of swapping the bulbs over in my dash now actually.
This post has been edited by Spree: Nov 7, 2011 - 7:40 PM
www.SpreeLED.comFacebookYoutubeSMD LED CONVERSIONS FOR ALL TOYOTA CELICA GEN 6 - DASH - COURTESY LIGHTS - SIDELIGHTS - LICENCE PLATE BULBS - BRAKE LIGHTS
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OP sorry for the thread jack
Spree, I actually have the white leds
It isn't as bright as the ones that you sell and has the green tinge mixed with the white.
QUOTE (Spree @ Nov 7, 2011 - 4:39 PM)
>>
That is correct. Its the backlighting that is covered in my kit.
Are you saying that the blue led's you got on ebay for the speedometer are greenish? i have seen that before.
The ones I have in stock now are very blue. More blue then the ones I used to get. I'm in the process of swapping the bulbs over in my dash now actually.
QUOTE (nics @ Nov 7, 2011 - 6:51 PM)
>I see. The indicators are the ones that need to be soldered and your kit doesn't include that.
I was thinking of getting the gauge cluster again because the SMD LEDs from ebay that I got has a greenish tinge on the speedometer.
I was thinking of getting the gauge cluster again because the SMD LEDs from ebay that I got has a greenish tinge on the speedometer.
That is correct. Its the backlighting that is covered in my kit.
Are you saying that the blue led's you got on ebay for the speedometer are greenish? i have seen that before.
The ones I have in stock now are very blue. More blue then the ones I used to get. I'm in the process of swapping the bulbs over in my dash now actually.
OP sorry for the thread jack
Spree, I actually have the white leds
It isn't as bright as the ones that you sell and has the green tinge mixed with the white.
God made man....Everything else...Made in China
I would be interested to see what your bulbs look like. If they use SMD's as you say then I doubt mine would be any different actually unless the SMD's in yours are dim for some reason.
I have found some variation in the plastics used for the instrument clusters that can cause that green tint. Some clusters come up really well and some don't....
The cluster in my JDM ST205 for instance is of the greenish variety and white bulbs look OK but never truly pop.
This is not a problem with the stronger colours like red, blue and green.
One area that my bulbs do help though is that I don't supply them glued into the bases so that they can be removed and fitted directly to the bulb holders.
This allows them to sit further away and light the cluster more evenly. This is mainly useful the middle speedo section as this causes them middle needle to light up much brighter and give a more pleasing look to the whole thing.
So a quick option may be to see if you can prize your bulbs out of the bases if they are not glued in too tightly (if only for the middle bulb, it doesn't make such a drastic difference on the other two) so you can at least get a better lit speedo needle.
You then just bend out the pins, slot the bulb into the holder and then loop the wires under the contacts. You may need to then trim off the excess wire. Just make sure that the two wires are not touching under the bulb before you refit.
This post has been edited by Spree: Nov 8, 2011 - 7:48 AM
I have found some variation in the plastics used for the instrument clusters that can cause that green tint. Some clusters come up really well and some don't....
The cluster in my JDM ST205 for instance is of the greenish variety and white bulbs look OK but never truly pop.
This is not a problem with the stronger colours like red, blue and green.
One area that my bulbs do help though is that I don't supply them glued into the bases so that they can be removed and fitted directly to the bulb holders.
This allows them to sit further away and light the cluster more evenly. This is mainly useful the middle speedo section as this causes them middle needle to light up much brighter and give a more pleasing look to the whole thing.
So a quick option may be to see if you can prize your bulbs out of the bases if they are not glued in too tightly (if only for the middle bulb, it doesn't make such a drastic difference on the other two) so you can at least get a better lit speedo needle.
You then just bend out the pins, slot the bulb into the holder and then loop the wires under the contacts. You may need to then trim off the excess wire. Just make sure that the two wires are not touching under the bulb before you refit.
This post has been edited by Spree: Nov 8, 2011 - 7:48 AM
www.SpreeLED.comFacebookYoutubeSMD LED CONVERSIONS FOR ALL TOYOTA CELICA GEN 6 - DASH - COURTESY LIGHTS - SIDELIGHTS - LICENCE PLATE BULBS - BRAKE LIGHTS
The gauges are tinted green because the back of the gauge faces are painted green. To fix that, you actually need to remove the gauge faces and sand the back of the numbers down. Otherwise, white LED's will always turn out with a greenish tinge in the gauge cluster. Colors like red and blue aren't nearly as affected by the greenish tinge as white.
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Not all cars have this though. And the type of plastic does vary too. I will have to have another look at the back of my gauge faces though next time I'm messing about with them as a red needle kit is on the cards. That would be a good though if its just a green film on the back as that can at least be fixed.
There is not any green in these for instance.
These also came up very white without any sanding or anything although the photo is on a bit of a long exposure.
This post has been edited by Spree: Nov 8, 2011 - 6:45 PM
QUOTE (richee3 @ Nov 8, 2011 - 6:16 PM)
>The gauges are tinted green because the back of the gauge faces are painted green. To fix that, you actually need to remove the gauge faces and sand the back of the numbers down. Otherwise, white LED's will always turn out with a greenish tinge in the gauge cluster. Colors like red and blue aren't nearly as affected by the greenish tinge as white.
Not all cars have this though. And the type of plastic does vary too. I will have to have another look at the back of my gauge faces though next time I'm messing about with them as a red needle kit is on the cards. That would be a good though if its just a green film on the back as that can at least be fixed.
There is not any green in these for instance.
These also came up very white without any sanding or anything although the photo is on a bit of a long exposure.
This post has been edited by Spree: Nov 8, 2011 - 6:45 PM
www.SpreeLED.comFacebookYoutubeSMD LED CONVERSIONS FOR ALL TOYOTA CELICA GEN 6 - DASH - COURTESY LIGHTS - SIDELIGHTS - LICENCE PLATE BULBS - BRAKE LIGHTS
I will try to get a pic of the actual leds. I have some spares in the car.
God made man....Everything else...Made in China