I have a question guys im in the process of building my 3sgte and I am going to go double filter on it with an aftermarket oil cooler system... my question is...

Where can I have the intake and out of the oil put...My mechanic suggested the oil turbo return line but i am not sure because if there is pressure maybe it will fill it up and have oil go up the wrong way on the turbo? any help is appreciated thanks guys...

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I've been planning on doing the same thing except not with the double filter setup, only one filter. I have a oil filter bypass in place of my regular filter right now, I just have to get the lines, filter mount, and cooler.

I could go through the oil filter bypass but I prefer have 2 oil filter plus the bling factor lol I already have an HKS sandwich plate anyways for my sensors

Well for the double filter kit I believe jegs sells a oil filter relocation kit with 2 filters. And for the cooler you can get the sandwich plate that has the 2 an fittings on it for the oil cooler

I already have the kit and its lines i want to know WHERE should i plug the IN and the OUT

On the oil cooler or the oil filter relocation?

I would prefer to have an electric oil pump with it's own reservoir to give the turbo it's own oil and cool it through the radiator or by other means. Then give the engine its own oil cooler and filter. That way I don't have to worry about the engine not outputting the right amount of oil to the turbo. Plus the electric pump would help me set up the car for the dry sump setup that I would like to run if I could ever find a kit.

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he's asking where on the engine would be the best place to route the oil cooling lines from/to.

This post has been edited by match220: Oct 26, 2011 - 12:58 AM

Hi,

murphys rule -> Whatever can go wrong, will go wrong

i doens't understand the idea of putting a second oil filter in the system or a electric pump just for the turbo, nothing of that gives you a advantage

you engine is just able to run a lont time well when it isn't complex with just the parts you are really need

you just need:

- greedy thermostatic adapter for the oil filter (the advatage against otehrs is that it also takes sensors)
- a few lines
- a radiator

http://www.shopgreddy.com/accessories/engi...-4-x-16unf.html

do not tough the turbo oil return line, there must be a free flow back to the oil pan, a turbo damage can occure

greetz

This post has been edited by Sunny: Oct 26, 2011 - 5:54 AM

So I can weld a bung onto the oil pan for my oil cooler return? where could I tap for oil IN that would have enough pressure/flow to go through the filter then cooler and back down into the pan

well since only one other person has really said anything on this thread that was intelligent ill say it. this is retarded, your going about it completely wrong. there is not need to drill and tap or cut and weld anything. toyota put this nifty little thing on the 3rd gen in the oil pan where the oil filter goes. it gets oil pressure right from the oil pump. get something like the picture put fittings in it and it screws on where the filter goes, and it doesnt add any length or weight like a sandwich plate. hook up your lines with 1 filter, 2 filter, 10 filters whatever and you cooler and your done. there isnt anything wrong with running 2 filters its only going to clean your oil more and add more oil to the system so a plus and a plus, but stop trying to do stuff some completely off the wall way. the stuff to do it the right way are already out there and you dont have to take the chance of damaging anything in the process.




This post has been edited by ST205WRC: Oct 26, 2011 - 12:58 PM

Hi,

have a look

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...t=0&start=0

here you can see a TRD filter mounted to a thermostatic adapter, the two lines go to the radiator

the only one issue i have is that the current adapter do not uses sensor fittings, thats why i have a sensond adapter mounted
the problem is that the filter becomes very down to the underpanel which is a little bit dangerous, i will go for the greedy one next year
to get more safety, to safe space and for less complexity and parts that can go wrong (seals)

greetz

the problem with the one with the adapter in oil filter pos. is that I already have a sandwich plate with sensor holes, What about the stock Oil cooler that goes on the block could I override that?

you do that then you have a bunch of water lines you have to do something with. trust me man the easiest thing is just going to be the adapter. they are cheap and easy just get one with sensor ports and remove the sandwich plate.

.....Mmmmmm Meh...I cant order anything i live too faarr

Hi,

the OEM cooler is fine, don't touch'em

thats why i wrote you should use the greedy type adapter it houses a thermostat and can also take sensors

use the link and have a look to the pictures
http://www.shopgreddy.com/accessories/engi...-4-x-16unf.html

greetz

we are gonna plug here...




and over ride the water cooling of the oil and go FMRad with an adapter like you posted...

Hi,

i would not, even it is a small radiator it helps to get faster normal oil temp. and helps to cool

greetz

I get why you might not want to, But I don't want my oil to HEAT my water either I want to decrease the load put on my cooling system

the rad will is 19 rows...and it is over an inch thick



This post has been edited by Neon90424: Oct 28, 2011 - 11:29 AM

you know what SUNNY just leave him alone. he asks questions and people give him answers and he doesnt want to listen. he does this every time he asks a question on here, he just argues with everyone that is trying to help him. so just leave him to himself, and we can just sit back and laugh when he blows it up AGAIN!!!

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For you my good friend, dont get lost thinking that bigger is always better. When it comes to your oil you never want it to become too cool by getting a super large radiator core for your setup. I mean really, 19 rows?!?!?! That a tad bit extreme. When it comes to oil cooling most ppl would suggest 7-12 row cores for most engine builds. And if higher some would suggest adding in a thermostat of some sort so that the oil is only being cooled when it really needs to be cooled.

I see your point about cool oil...I have an oil press and temp sensors on the sandwich plate I will look out for it getting too cool. I do listen to you guys, I just exploring the limits my 3SGTE will be going on stock ecu 272 cams BC Stage 3 Head kit and stock fuel system with a Walbro... All while looking at the AFR oil temp EGTs and oil Press...

My car was sabotaged...my rad was full of mud, screws and nuts which caused my over heating...and weakened my timing belt so that it snapped...my transmission was mounted with many screws missing I am lucky the whole transmission didnt fall out...those big screws...had an asshole mechanic...

Im trying to do this the right way, I am not fond of the hose from hell and dont want to have my oil cooler collecting dust in the garage so i might as well use it, and as cooling comes, I am planning to use the car also as a track car...and oil gets preeetty thin while full throttle 20 minutes, it all means less strain on my cooling system and have my CO2 as an emergency cooling solution if temps spike all I have to do is pull over and coast and blast the rads with CO2...

Hi,

there are a few mods that raise the performance of the cooling system (more if you are interested in ask me in my project thread) , there is no need for CO2 which makes the system more complex, once again just a not(!) complex engine is able to be a good engine


you radiator is fine but you must use a thermostat to controll the temp. which means ~80°C which means the oem heat exhanger and your water system plays together there is no need to be affraid
that the oil heats the water so much, or in other words you had won once the heat is away from the engine regardless if she comes from water or oil, the oil not just has a lubricant purpose he also cools
note: every part in your engine is developed to work under operating conditions -> abrasion

i must advise to cool down the engine for 1round if you are on track, nearly every part gets really hot under such conditions and when you turn off or idle the engine two very important
things fail -> water flow & oil pressure


greetz

This post has been edited by Sunny: Oct 29, 2011 - 1:50 PM

Thanks sunny! the CO2 is more of a freezing the water cooler for drags than to cool the system

Interesting topic! Another option to install an aftermarket oil cooler is to use a thermostatic sandwich plate without sensors.
You can install the sensors like we did on my car, alongside the oil filter location:



We put some heat-resistant anti leak tape on the adapter
(not on the front 5mm so when it comes of, it could not come into the oil system)
I used the adapter on the right side:



-Roy

Hey Neon hope you don't mind if I thread jack a little bit, but this got my wheels turning and I feel the need to go ahead and ask my question instead of opening a new thread. I wanted to pick Sunny's brain a little bit.

So I'm interested in buying the greddy thermostatic sandwich plate. (I also have an oil pressure sensor that I need to hook up). I'd like to keep the stock oil cooler, but I do want to ensure that I purpose build my engine for some extreme situations.

What kind of oil cooler would you suggest (brand?) I think a 7 row would be right for me. Is it ok to run the stock oil cooler with an aftermarket 7row oil cooler with the thermostatic sandwich plate?

This whole thread is of aftermarket oil cooling go ahead pal! its for everyone! In my experience the 19 row works just fine, you could fit a sandwich plate and delete the oil filter , go to an oil cooler and have an inline K&N oil filter...they are pretty nice...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IN-LINE-GAS-OIL-FI...=item43a8f41f0e

Seems like that would be pretty expensive to replace every oil change!

I dont think every oil change... maybe every 10,000 miles