Just some teasers of things to come...
Where this car used to be... here


Where it is now (at my garage)


What it's going to be getting

and


Stay Tuned!

This post has been edited by ricochet1490: Apr 26, 2015 - 8:20 PM

Nice! I've been waiting for this thread. I demand pictures every step of the way. Any help you need, feel free to call me. I'll try to come up there and lend a hand with the swap if I can. That clip looks fantastic. Are you pulling the motor apart for maintenance or just dropping it in?

Do I spy an IS 300 in the background?

This post has been edited by richee3: Oct 29, 2011 - 7:58 PM

great clip dude! good luck with the swap

My attention has shifted.

you need anyhelp let me kno man
we need to meet up sometime so I can see this in person lol

This post has been edited by kurt95gt: Oct 30, 2011 - 12:40 AM

Sunday!

glad too see this going into your celica. Also very glad that community of 6gc is starting to swap in redtop engines left and right without hesitation

>

Thank-you.
Eventual plans are to make it look like it came from the factory that way. You better believe RHD is on the way

Picked up the clip today in cincinatti....

So now this progression will become a reality as soon as finals are over.
Shout out to Richee3 for the CLEAN shell at a great price with all the right parts.
Shout out to FORGMANN for the CLEAN clip at a great price complete with extra parts.
Shout out to BOTH of those guys for a ton of support, parts, and kindness. You've made this a reality for me.

This will not be halfazzed. It will retain U.S. VIN# for ease in registration and liscensing. Firewall swap over for RHD. Every part from the clip will be used with the exception of the control arms and various other parts that I will need to retain USDM suspension. Even though there are some good prices on Superstrut on the forums now.... not knowing what that means for my usdm rear end in the car and what it means for replacement parts.... I will retain all usdm suspension and brakes. The exception is the JDM anti-ock brake system. Auto climate control will also be installed.

Items I will need if anyone has these at a good price lol.... i'm not in a hurry because they are cosmetic but before I drive it I'll have to have it... but just keep it in mind haha
1) set of jdm tails
2) ssiii riser blocks and accompanying spoiler
3) ssiii body parts. splitters etc.
4) set of 17" wheels

Keep me in mind guys!! lol

On a more serious note - here is the plan of action:
1) finish finals, week of Thanksgiving (Nov 2_th)
2) weekend after deer season begin tear down of shell, complete gutting, interior, carpet, dash, everything (complete by end of first weekend in december)
3) firewall of shell cut out either that weekend or shortly thereafter. Saving all cables for trunk pop/gas etc. - setting aside all usdm parts for later install into my DD, sale on 6gc, give back to Richee3 because of all of his previous kindness.
4) drop motor from clip out of the bottom ( I have a forklift etc.) and begin clip tear down (noting and saving all bolts and wiring locations) Drop motor by christmas.... have clip torn down and parts organized by Jan 15 2012
**Classes start back up and progress will drastically slow so I need to do as MUCH as I possibly can before Jan 3. **
5) reweld clip firewall into shell and begin running chassis wiring. Have wiring run and dash parts more or less installed by Feb7 (my birthday)
6) install interior with EXTRA sound deadening everywhere with legit RHD center console ( from FORGMANN, he's the man) Complete by Feb 22
7) Install engine bay parts and tie up odds and ends like wiper bulkhead. Matching spray paint color to car - paint firewall- Complete by March 12.
8)Install engine subframe into shell by installing from bottom. Hello forklift - Hook up all engine electronics/fluids/fuel etc - Complete and have running by March 26 (end of spring break)
9) Install exterior parts/pieces tails, jdm fenders, bumpers etc. - finish by april 15
10) bleed brakes - bolt on wheels - drive to buereau of motor vehicles and get registered and liscensed - May 5th
11) Run the piss out of the car for a weekend, park it and begin all remaining body work that MIGHT need to be done if I haven't gotten to it yet. - Send to paint and have painted the color she was.... sleight blue gray.
12 Project complete for my College graduation.. Present to myself.

HERE WE GO!!

This post has been edited by ricochet1490: Nov 7, 2011 - 1:30 AM

Sounds like you got this figured out
now I need to get ob the ball like you

That's a very detailed itinerary. I'll bet you can get it done sooner than that! Stripping the car's interior doesn't take long. If you had one solid week to work on it, no messing around, I'd bet you could have the RHD conversion and BEAMS swap finished.

About the RHD conversion, is the dash/firewall/console the only bits being converted to RHD? Like you're going to use the passenger seat as the driver's seat and keep the floorboard the same shape? What about power windows? If it was me, I would totally pick up another relay so the passenger side (soon to be driver side) window is auto down. Or get fancy and make them both auto up and down. Of course, if you move the USDM driver side window controls over, the wrong button will be illuminated, buts starting to get too nit-picky. I'm mostly just curious about the floorboard, if you're keeping the USDM floorboard or welding the RHD floorboard in.

This post has been edited by richee3: Nov 7, 2011 - 1:30 PM

haha Dan. i didn't want guys to be like..... WHOA! that's WAY too fast. You need to slow down and do MOAR RESEARCH! lol I'm hoping to have the motor in much sooner than that.

Edit:
I may not rebuild anything.... this car is NOT a DD, it is a garage car/weekend car.... here's why - I may crack the tranny to inspect the flywheel and clutch. But that would literally be the only replaced part.


This post has been edited by ricochet1490: Nov 7, 2011 - 1:33 PM

>
Like I said, just send me a text when you get ready for the swap. Chris and Stacy were kind enough to drive 10 hours to help me swap, so the least I can do is pay it forward. You already know the BEAMS swap forwards and backwards but having a second set of hands is always useful.

Edit: you should swap that entire gauge cluster. If its RHD, might as well know how many kilometers an hour you're doing as well!

This post has been edited by richee3: Nov 7, 2011 - 1:36 PM

the floor boards don't look to be that different. I'm using the stock carpet for sure. I'll have to mod the seats so that the seat belt light is triggered in the drivers seat. The door panels are the same. The switches will likely get changed to jdm ones to utilize power folding mirrors (yet to be acquired or decided if I even want them) The auto up and down..... I don't know if the actuator takes care of that or if it's the switch, I haven't got to that point yet lol. Those are definitely final touches. I haven't even asked anyone that question yet and there are def some guys who have done full RHD conversions, I'll have to look into that. i wil do the floor pans if I have to, but i haven't planned to. Shouldn't matter. I'll have a small carpet misfit in some locations, but again, I'll make that look right as well.

But you're right, there are several small ticket items like that that are just hanging in the wind lol


Here is czwalgas progress thread with LHD floor boards for sure. comparing them to the above picture tells me there is little to no difference.
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...76086&st=20

This post has been edited by ricochet1490: Nov 7, 2011 - 1:55 PM

I was mostly just curious about a dead pedal in the passenger floorboard. You did bring up a good point though- no Celica out of the 5 I've had have cared about the seat belt light. To be honest, I can't even remember if I've ever even seen the light in my black one. It never mattered whether it was plugged in or not. So the seat belt light might be a non-issue. I don't think the floor pan matters whether it's RHD or LHD, the exhaust still runs down the same side of the car. I think the difference is the dead pedal and the floor mat.

FORGMANN hooked me up like the awesome dude he is with some RHD floor mats, celica hyper sports, The dead pedal is a consideration, but I'll figure that out as I go. The carpet i'll have to sew in a spot to cover up somewhere I've been told, prolly around the dead pedal, but I can neither confirm or deny that..... yet lol. But I'll have the wiring from the current drivers seat taken out and hooked up to the passenger seat so that the seat belt light goes off. Drives me crazy when it's on in my own car. Just another thing that is lit up on the dash. but if I can't do that I'll be unplugging the light in the cluster haha. This thing is sooo clean. zero rusty bolts, zero oil in the bay, i don't think it EVER saw snow. Life is good

You hate the seatbelt light? That's why you should just buckle up

Seriously though, I know you're very familiar with the swap, but here's some quick reference info:

Wiring:
-EA1 plug, pin 17 goes to pin 4. Pin 17 is the bottom left wire, red with a black stripe. Pin 4 is the thick black wire at the top center of the EA1. Pin 17 needs power when pin 4 has it. This gives the BEAMS spark.
-EA1 plug, pins 2 and 12 need to be bridged. Those are ground wires. They need to be spliced together. There should be two wires, parallel to each other. Just bridge them together.
-Clutch start wire- there are 3 vertical plugs next to the ECU. On the body side of the plugs, you have a white (19 pin) plug, light gray (13 pin) plug, and dark gray (17 pin) plug. The clutch start wire is pin 18 on the white plug. Move it to pin 17 on the dark gray plug.
-Cruise control: Contrary to popular belief, no work is necessary for cruise control. It's a standalone system with no wiring related to the motor.
-To get your airbag light to function properly, you run a wire from the EA1 plug to the light gray interior plug (either pin 4 or pin 5, I have read separate posts saying both and I chose not to do this step so I cannot confirm which pin it is.)

Useful pictures:
EA1 plug, pins 4 and 17 bridged, as well as 2 and 12.




EA1 Plug with the necessary wiring changes.


Clutch start wire:



Plug C, wire 27 (Tach signal wire.)


Useful links:
njccmd2002- "I Swapped 3s-ge Redtop Into '97 Limited Edition Vert."
turnip- "Swap: 3sge Beams into 94 GT"
hurley97/Batman722- "New Addition to Our Family"
erahman85- "One acronym... BEAMS"

I have some more pictures that Turnip sent me. I'll upload them and add them later. Any questions, don't hesitate to ask!

This post has been edited by richee3: Jun 12, 2013 - 8:05 PM

Dang dan, that post took some time to compile. I can tell you that for sure haha. But alas, it might have been to no avail. Here's why. I'm transferring everything from the clip over. This includes dash, dash harness, engine harness, complete chassis harness. EVERYTHING. This means that everything should be plug and play. No repining needed. No splicing needed. Everything should be perfect. makes it easy that way.

It's mostly copy/pasted from page 16 or 17 of my progress thread. But I did it from my iPhone, so it turned out to be annoying. Lol. Stupid worthless iPhone...

Pointless or not, I'm leaving that post there for future BEAMS swappers!

Only part I plan on replacing is the clutch... at this moment anyway. the part number I've found through about 2 hours worth of thread searching and good is 31250-20331. Toyodiy has this specified for a jdm st202-blmzf the following
998 TOYOTA CELICA (ST202-BLMZF)

SS3 JPN LB 3SGE MTM
Powertrain / Chassis 31-01: CLUTCH & RELEASE FORK, page 1 of 2...
Search parts:
('9309-   ) ST202, 203..MTM, S54 Next >
31126 BOOT, CLUTCH RELEASE FORK
31126‑32010 ST202, 203..MTM 1 $14.91
31204 FORK SUB-ASSY, CLUTCH RELEASE
31204‑20100 ST202, 203..MTM 1 $44.87
31210 COVER ASSY, CLUTCH
31210‑32130 ST202, 203..MTM 1 $154.58
31210‑44010 ST202..MTM..(SS2, SS3) 1 $279.51
31230 BEARING ASSY, CLUTCH RELEASE
31230‑32060 ST202, 203..MTM 1 $62.00
31232A CLIP, RELEASE BEARING HUB
31232‑20020 ST202, 203..MTM, ｱﾘ(ｽ-ﾊﾟ- ｽﾄﾗﾂﾄ ｻｽﾍﾟﾝｼﾖﾝ), タイプ　Ａ 1 $2.02
31232‑32050 ST202, 203..MTM, TYPE B:ｲﾗｽﾄｻﾝｼﾖｳ 1 $1.62
31236B SUPPORT, RELEASE FORK
31236‑32010 ST202, 203..MTM 1 $14.35
31250 DISC ASSY, CLUTCH
31250‑20250 ST202, 203..MTM 1 $125.84
31250‑20330 ST202..MTM..(SS2, SS3) (12/1997 - 11/1998) 1 $129.50
31250‑20331 ST202..MTM..(SS2, SS3) (12/1998 - ) 1 $129.50



The last part number is in fact the ss3 clutch
A search of that part number from the main page, specifying North american market only reads this


Part 31250‑20331 (DISC ASSY, CLUTCH) was found on the following models:
Date range Model Frames/Options Found in diagram
09/1993-07/1999 TOYOTA CELICA AT200,ST204 31-01: CLUTCH & RELEASE FORK
Model Dates: Matching Models: Model Options: Links to diagrams:
08/1994-09/1995 ST204L-BKMGKA GT, USA, CVT, 5SFE, MTM 31-01
09/1993-07/1995 ST204L-BLMGKK GT, CND, LB, 5SFE, MTM 31-01
12/1997-07/1999 ST204L-BLMSKA ST, USA, LB, 5SFE, MTM 31-01

St204, as specified here with GT option, USA, 5sfe, 94/95.

Does this MEAN that I can use a stock 5sfe clutch from 94/95 with my ss3 beams w/ LSD transmission? This is what I'm seeing here.

On a side note, what about a clutch for an e153? From what I can gather an s series tranny can bolt onto any 5s, 3s, or 3sgte. So can I use that clutch in my tranny??

Any help here is greatly appreciated

This post has been edited by ricochet1490: Nov 8, 2011 - 1:29 AM

3sgte clutch has a different spline count than the 5sfe.
so the results are:
3sgte to s53/s54 trans = 3s flywheel & pressure plate, 5s clutch disc
3sgte to e153 trans = 3s flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc
5sfe to s53/s54 trans = 5s flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc
5sfe to e153 trans = 5s flywheel & pressure plate, 3s clutch disc

3sgte spline count = 21
5sfe spline count = 20

so count the spines on your transmission to determine which clutch will fit.

What he said. You can use either a 5S disc or the disc for the BEAMS, (31250-20331). Then you can use a pressure plate from a 5th gen Alltrac and throw out bearing for your stock 5S/S54. All parts are available in the US.

I mean I knew all of that. I guess I should have geared the question more toward the e153. I think I would just as soon buy the beams clutch kit if I can get it for the right price

>


Thank for the spline info. I had always wondered why lol - that answered that.
Thanks again for the help

Dan,
So those are the usdm parts that comprise a full beams clutch then?

This post has been edited by ricochet1490: Nov 8, 2011 - 2:12 PM

The BEAMS disc is sold in the United States, though I've never figured out what application it has here. I think it cost me like $70 or something like that. The ST185 pressure plate is readily available in the US and has more than ample clamping force for the BEAMS. It's a totally OEM setup and it feels great. None of that weird pedal feel that some aftermarket clutches give.

Today it started.... took out most of the interior Everything you see here including the center console, the airbag module, the radio, the center plastic around everything and the shifter/boot


Also, the engine bay of the shell is effectively empty (thanks dan )


The actual motor going into that bay


Found a nice little treat in the center console as I removed it - Thanks to one of the previous owners lol



The interior was mostly gutted in about an hour of work

Hey buddy this mean you got a extra shifter boot you could sell?

unlikely lol - The shift boot on the clip is in questionable condition. if I do find one I'll hit you up haha. You should just make one tho man. I saw your artwork today, I think you could sew one up for sure!

I've been thinking about it lol just gotta have the wife sew it
I can't sew for crap

Looks good! The interior comes apart pretty quickly. I totally forgot that Stadium Arcadium disc was in the car. I never bothered testing that radar detector either. I found some surprises in the car when I took it apart and I'm sure you've found a lot more.