Hey looking for some help to get the power place-ment more to ground , my 3rd gen 3sgte is about 310 WHP when putting the power down in 1st and 2nd gear my car is not put the power to the wheels ,

Think about change to coilover system to give a stiffer rear-end ..

What do you guys think ?

Well one of the first things you could do is invest in Larger/stickier tires. And if you dont want to go larger then the stickier the better. To be honest ill always recommend Bridgestone RE-050's for their well balanced wet and dry handling. Other than that i cant really give much more advice right now...

Stiffen the suspension, add torque bars, LSD, anything you can do to eliminate wheel hop.

Yea going try the stiffen suspension ... got Toyo R1R 205/45R16 should maybe got a wide tire but not this time , Theses tire ROCK

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205 is too skinny for that much power. get 225/45R16 tires instead. or go for 215/45R16 Falken Azenis RT615K their is also the kumho 215/45R16 as well.

yea found that out now , but tires are new so that not going to work

TRD engine mounts might help ?

are you experience wheel hop?

x2

wheel hop or just burning rubber?

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polyurethane front and rear motor mounts. If you can, superstrut suspension conversion on the front would help more so with wheel-hop and torque steer.

yea iam getting wheel hop

magan or tein coilover you guys think?

tein

not sure how your driving technique is, so dont take this the wrong way.

after talking to a friend who has been racing most of his life ( dirt / go kart / circuit ) about how to improve FWD traction, he suggested to work on my driving technique BEFORE modifying the suspension.

basically, learning how to drive the car with the new power ( swapped ) and adjusting your input to maximise traction with the current setup, learning what's the max trottle that you can apply before you loose traction, once this is mastered, then doing what most people have already suggested and re-learning the new limits.

it doesn't matter how well a car is setup, if it's not driven properly it will loose traction, so developing good driving technique is key to getting the max possible traction out of any car. I'm not good by any means, but once I started practicing I was able to take off from standing still, while on 16 x 7 with 205 / 50 / 16 all season tires. once I swithced the 17 x 8 225 / 45 / 17 I felt like the car had no traction issues at all. mind you I have LSD, sway bars, strut bars, poly bushing and tein coilovers. but even with all this, if I just plant my foot on the gas it will do nothing but burn tires.

good replays ... i see my drive as above normal , as far as bigger tires that would be great idea but i have new ones on there now , so that will be nice time that been said at about stock setup 230HP to wheels i was running 13.4 on 1/4 mile , right now i have Tein spring with Bilstein shocks ,

so rear-end i think is not the stiff and needs to be more , that where the coilover I 'am hoping will help as well TRD mounts seem to have good review in helping with Wheel Hop

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you went 13.4 on a stockish setup? im goin to the track next spring to try my luck out.

as for my setup, i have front and rear poly mounts, TRD strut bar and Toyo Proxies 4 and i dont get alot of wheel hop at all to speak off, if anything it will just spin at the top of the gear if i give it to much gas.

which tranny and axles are you using out of curiosity?

another thing to consider is front suspension polyurethane bushings for the control arms

Pick up the book, "Handling; What it is and how to get it." The mysteries of suspension tuning over hp tuning are all revisited in there.

NIce will have look at that book

Using the Stock 5sfe tranny and axles that hold up good

the Mr2 does have the LSD. In the end is your call your the builder

I have a few words to say, based on things I've read about this and also on my (pretty limited) experience.
1)Wider tires don't mean that they will be more sticky: imagine that the same weight will press on more square inches, which means that the weight on a square inch will be less if you use a wider tire.
2)Once the tires are stickier, there will be more "pressure" on the clutch and the ... things that connect the gearbox to the wheels (I don't know how they are called, perhaps CV boot or something).
3)For drag applications, you need to stiffen the rear suspension; besides springs, you could use top adjustable shock absorbers; I use Koni's and they do their job well.
4)I agree to the polyurethane engine mounts; also, changing all of your bushing to poly will improve everything, except for comfort.

Good luck!

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This is really the key. Anything smaller and you will spin.