Starter grounds through contact with trans.
. Make sure mating surfaces are clean. Might be why it tests ok out of car but not in car. I dunno, just a quess.

take the small wire off the starter, connect it to a test light that's connected to ground. Turn the key to start and the light should light brightly. That's the signal from the ignition switch. In theory you can put the key to RUN then jump power to the starter small wire with a push button or by shorting a wire to the battery positive and it will crank/start/run.

mating surfaces are clean.

I've jumped the wire to the starter straight from the battery + and still just clicks. Mike and Dan have been helping me. We think it may be a bad starter/starter wiring. Starter spins off the car and connected to a battery pack but does not spin on the car. I reinstalled the starter and connected it straight to the battery pack and managed to get it to start just once but couldn't hold idle n died out right away. Then after that, just clicks again.

I'm gonna get a new starter put in and figure out the start signal after as the starter may or may not be the main cause of all this.

Well that's somewhat of a good sign! If you have a multi-meter maybe check for continuity from starter to where ever at the fuse box. Or tear open the loom & see if there is bad wires for the starter circuit.

dead battery?

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yeah might have to end up doing that.

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nein. battery was on a tender all winter. I even threw in the battery from my Matrix to guarantee a fresh working battery and still nothing.


Gonna get another starter to pop in there and ensure it's not the problem and then thoroughly check the wiring from the starter back.
It's so close....

So wish I could come & help.
Lol, I have motivation to help others but none to work on my own crap.

Pop the back of the solenoid off on the current starter and check the contact shoes for wear, and do the same check on the 'new' starter as well. 99% of the time a Toyota starter ONLY needs a fresh set of shoes and it's good to go for another 200,000 miles.

Your issue however sounds like a weak power feed or weak ground issue. What's the voltage at the larger cable to the starter at the starter when you hold the key in crank when it just goes clunk once? Should be within 1/2 volt of battery voltage. If you connect the meter with one lead at positive terminal and the other at the starter battery terminal and measure voltage when the cable is loaded that will give you the voltage drop of that cable. Less drop is better. You can check the grounds in a similar manner, you need to load the ground to see what the drop is, the higher the load the more accurate the reading will be.

Bump.

Seems like whenever the forum goes down, I make a tremendous amount of progress so it only makes sense that yesterday and the day before the forum went down. But now it seems like it's up?? Jordan, Devin you two were right. Thanks for the tip. That definitely solved the issue. It was a noob mistake on my part. The harness I got from Daniel was cut short and set up for battery relocation. During the BEAMS party, we swapped harnesses and saw that so Luke and I cut the positive terminal off the old harness off and kinda held it together by hand and electrical tape to get it started that one time. LOL. After the BEAMS party I let it sit for a while before getting back into it, retraced my steps and redid/added some grounds and retightened everything. I also attempted to splice the battery wire together but that was where my noob mistake came in. The splice I made didn't have a secure tight connection and kept losing power therefore causing all the weird funky issues. Low and behold, I undid my connection and made a better tighter connection and BAM! I got BEANS!

For all five of you guys viewing at home, I give you "the start up video"


BIG HUGEEEEEEE HUGEEEE shoutout and thank you to everyone that has helped me along the way so far. Definitely couldn't have done it without the midwest crew, you all know you are. Big Thanks to the BEAMS party crew for driving from all over to help me out that day. Jordan, Devin, Luke for giving me advice and tips on how not to mess it up. Chris for supplying your parts car for me to raid. Annette, Ted, Norberto, Manny and whoever else nagged me the entire way and gave me motivation to not give up, I was close a couple times. Lastly, Thanks to the guy who convinced me to do something so stupid and something I will never financially recover from. You provided me with a broken BEAMS, an LSD trans, a weird acting harness, and lots of late night chats about how I shouldn't suck at something like this. Daniel, thank you for everything and I hope you happy you can have another person that shares in your struggle with the BEAMS now.

We're not quite done yet though, just almost to the finish line. Gotta finish up and tidy up a couple more things before it can roll outta the garage finally! stay tuned everyone!

I think maybe the forum is still having a little hiccup there. Glad you got it running, now if the forum would just go down again maybe you'll be able to get it out on the road!

Youtube keeps feeding me 4AGE ITB videos, BEANS+ITB?

Chee, the internet just can't handle your beams swap.

Fix the car, break the forum... I vote BAN!

oh snap! my post did get posted after all. lol. I literally posted that AS the forum crashed.

yeah, I only make progress when the forum crashes it seems.... I would gladly accept the ban if it means the forum stays up. lol

Bitter, I've also been seeing ITB BEANS for some reason and it's peaking my interest but I don't think I can handle any more down time without a celica. Since selling Freelica, I do not have a drivable 6th gen anymore so I gotta get back on the road for a bit before I think about any other mods.



also, as of two days ago, the interior is put back together, just had to splice in the passenger seat wire because it was brittle and broken when I took out the seat. Bled the brakes and taped up some exposed wires in the engine bay. Installed some chrome door handles and clear lenses on my door cards. Only things left to do is get a decent drill to drill the mount holes on the passenger side, (yes I haven't done that this entire time because of all the issues i ran into), tighten the power steering because it's keeps leaking, burp the coolant, get a new ventilation hose for the intake, and fab an exhaust and we'll be good to go! oh and also fix that broken bolt on the AC line that I snapped but.......... we'll figure that one out later....

I'd just give up... thats alot to do still.

CHEEE STOP FIXING YOUR CELICA IT'S BREAKING THE INTERNET!

Srsly, seems like every time you post an update the site goes down lol. Good to see you making progress though!

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um................ I have.... an....... update??..... but I'm not sure if I should post it because it might actually break the whole interwebz but I mean.... the BEANS is down on the ground and I ran through all the gears down the road and back....... *closes eyes and flinches as I press the post button*

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That's fantastic news, I bet you're thrilled. Hows it feel?

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First drive felt amazing! It's definitely ALOT more power than the 7A auto and it screams to redline since there's no exhaust. Definitely feels faster than Daniel's although his 1) never ran quite right and 2) I drove it in Colorado so the altitude difference probably lost a good 10-15hp. Way faster than Mike's Yellowtop for sure. lol The LSD trans is nice too. Can definitely feel the road more. TRD shifter makes it fun to shift as well so overall it's more acceptable as a sports car now.

but that being said, it doesn't go without issues. I'm also concerned as when I first got it off the ground, I couldn't go into gear at all with the engine running but was able to with it off. Talking with Daniel and Luke, we think it's because the flywheel wasn't machined to the correct step height. I ended up bleeding the clutch and adjusting the clutch pedal and was able to get it to disengage the clutch but the clutch pedal adjustment is almost maxed out. So while it is drivable, per Luke and his experience, the flywheel will have to come out again and get corrected or I will end up eating through master cylinders.

oh and power steering leaks like a b*tch so I gotta get a new high pressure hose to the replace the new hose I put in since that hose is leaking.

This post has been edited by cheela: May 22, 2020 - 6:51 PM

Is it done yet?

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Enough to enjoy taking it out on the country roads here a few times. The old gas in it is almost out so I can't wait to put proper gas into it and see if that will help it run even better.

good luck on the progess of new swap

Here's the PSA thread I made years ago explaining what happens if your flywheel has the wrong step height

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=93023


Machining specs matter ppl. These are carefully engineered mechanical systems and everything has to be spaced appropriately to work

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Yeah, I was searching online and just found it the other day when the forum came back up. Definitely good info and I would've never thought about it if you hadn't said anything.

Every time someone with a Toyota says their new clutch/flywheel isn't working right I always ask them about how it was cut/was there a step, and almost every time that's the problem or they killed the clutch because of failing master/slave.

I hope you get it sorted out and all together for the next meet, that'll be a lot of fun!

This post has been edited by Bitter: May 23, 2020 - 1:24 PM

NO GOOD PICS IN THIS PAGE?

meh.....

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Quarantine is almost over so my free time is going to be cut short again. It was close. I almost had it all squared out before the end of it. lol but I will have to take it apart some time and get it sorted and finish the exhaust as well.

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YET...

Better than that 2gr vert thread though haven't seen an update in months.

Time to update and break the forums.

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haha, nope not willing to break the forum so no updates. Took it out a few times to "run out the old gas" hehehe.... it's fun revving it up with no exhaust down these country roads. but I also don't want to do too much and end up with a failing master cylinder too so it'll sit for the most part.

but the real reason is that most of my time has been spent on yard work. I've been mowing the lawn constantly it seems, and then solving some issues around the house. Digging a drain pipe for part of my driveway as it floods during heavy rains. Also battling invasive sumac. Those sonsabiches spread faster than a prostitute's legs. Bout to set fire to half my yard just to keep them under control. Trying poison first and if that don't kill them I'll just have to dig up my whole yard. ugh...

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There's worse things than Sumac, at least it's a native species that makes tasty tea! Unless you mean poison Sumac.

Sumac spreads underground and in the right conditions makes big groves pretty fast, anything that kills Sumac which is pretty hearty will surely kill everything else. The best way to control it is to block it's root spread with physical barriers like a line of flagstone or 12x12 pavers buried on edge. Their spreading roots don't go deep, usually, so that would probably block them out. Cutting them down doesn't do much since they'll just pop up from the ground again. I say embrace them, it's less lawn to mow! You can prune them up into tree's that cast a nice shady canopy and they're quite pretty in the fall.