a $50 vacuum manifold would probly work best. Interested the progression on this. If the IAT sensor is unpluged it will lean the hell out of the motor. Green top injectors are way too big even for this project. if ti was me doing this. Id run a manifold(sheet metal box) just like the 4a 20v. Still get the same effect with the stacks, just easier to work with in terms of sensors and what not. Considering doing it on my 7afze project.

One common misconception Ive read here is that itbs will reduce throttle response and low end. The sole purpose for itbs is to improve part throttle response.

Oh and set every throttlebody the same. The simple way involves placing a vacuum gauge on each seperate intake runner nipple. Adjust the throttle plates till the vacuum reading is even across all 4 cylinders.

The proper way to adjust them is to build this tool I cant remember the name of. Take 2 jars and fill them halfway with semi transparent oil of any type. Use a piece of hose and run it through the lid of both jars so that the hose is submerged in the liquid. Make sure the hose is sealed airtight with the jar. Next take 2 sections of hose and run 1 hose into each jar, this time the end of the hose should be in the air not submerged. Now, supposing your jars are airtight like they should be, you can hook the two hoses to two seperate ITB and balance out the pressure. Whichever intake runner is pulling more vacuum will pull the oil out of the other jar into its jar

This post has been edited by Special_Edy: Sep 7, 2012 - 9:30 AM

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Manometer and you want to use inches of water, its much more sensitive. I just used 4 cheap vacuum gauges to balance carbs on a cycle, worked fine.

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Yup, thats where I learned it, the dreaded 4 carburetors on my SECA 750. The manometer is a must though for precision