Just went ahead and bought a leak down should be here early next week.

Just some info I've came up on for 4afe and 7afe.

In. MM.

Rings
No. 1
End Gap
Standard .010-.018 (.25-.45)
Wear Limit .042 (1.07)
Side Clearance .0018-.0035 (.045-.090)

No. 2
End Gap
Standard .014-.020 (.35-.50)
Wear Limit .0472 (1.20)
Side Clearance .0012-.0028 (.030-.071)

No. 3 (Oil)
End Gap
Standard .006-.018 (.15-.45)
Wear Limit .041 (1.05)

Piston to wall clearance .004 (.101)

On 1.8L, measure rod bolt .787" (20 mm) from head of
bolt. Minimum diameter is .276" (7 mm). On all engines
replace rod bolt and nut if less than minimum diameter.
3) Note mark at center of connecting rod, which must be
aligned with front mark on top of piston. Install
connecting rod in original direction. Install piston with front mark
on piston top toward timing belt end of engine.

Main bearing clearance should be .0006-.0013" (.015-.033 mm)

And ofcourse on rod bearings you can either decode the block or measure with plastgauge or precise tools to get the desired clearances you need/want. Myself I've always been happy with .015-.019 on my Hondas which I will most likely shoot for if bearings do need replacing.
BC = IDBT – ODC – (2 x BT)
BC = bearing clearance
IDBT = inside diameter of bearing tunnel (housing bore)
ODC = outside diameter of crank journal
BT = bearing thickness
Formula applies to mains aswell.
"1" ...................................... .0585-.0587 (1.486-1.490)
"2" ...................................... .0587-.0588 (1.490-1.494)
"3" ...................................... .0588-.0590 (1.494-1.498)

Figured since I found some info I was looking for I would post it here so I can refer back to it.

Find the problem yet?

This post has been edited by ricochet1490: May 19, 2013 - 9:18 PM

Waiting on my leak down tester to come in bud, hoping for the best expecting the worse ha.

Well good news they warranted the engine and gave me two options ....... either A pull it and get a full refund (Because they didn't have any other 7As) or B take a bit of money instead.

So i went with B, is their any higher CR OEM pistons that will work with the stock rods?

This post has been edited by Takumi-FujiWaraST: May 21, 2013 - 12:41 PM

While you're going through all of this you should looking into making the 7A-GE.

I've looked into it and came to the conclusion that it would be just easier to get a whole 4age. Don't know what the wiring consist of (which i hate), but read it bolts up to the ST trans using stock mounting points. If job works out i'll just go that way and say bye to the 7a.

Just did a leak down all cylinder's showed 10-20%. Once or twice i got the cylinder next to #1 to whistle, signs of cracked head/block or seeping head gasket.

So pretty much stuck oil rings or massive stem seal issues. Wondering if plopp'n my other head on is worth a go besides re ringing at the moment.

Box (or anyone) where can a 4age topend be acquired for a decent price?

You're local junk yards would be the best place to get parts. The following cars had the 4A-GE:
AT160 Celica 1985–1989
AE82 Corolla saloon, FX 1984–1987
AE86 Corolla Levin 1983–1987
AE92 Corolla 1987–1993
AW11 MR2 1984–1989
Chevrolet Nova (based on Corolla AE82) 1986-1988
Geo Prizm GSi (based on Toyota AE92 chassis) 1990–1992

Got work at the moment (and a check from where i got the engine) so since the celica is my dd i am thinking i will rebuild the 7a. Port the head and intake an hopefully buy a set of mild cams in the feature.

The 4afe cams will work correct?

I think they both have the slaved second cam, but as far as that I don't know anything else.

I've read that the 4afe cams do, but no real confirmation.

Tore it down today just waiting on parts to get here.

Been awhile just now getting around to putting it back together. That being said I'm out here right now and kinda stuck as to where the longer head bolts go and vise versa where the shorter head bolts go for the life of me I can't remember and don't have it in my manual. Anyway getting close, hope someone can give me a quick reply thanks kindly!

Oh she's alive again ready for the break in period and just a bit before winter, because my type2 legend would soooooooooo go great in snow (not). Anyway other than an electrical issue with everything on the inside not working (100 amp fuse blew and keeps blowing and i hate tracking down wiring ****, any ideas? done checked all chassis and block grounds) it runs and starts right up.

Must be something shorting out.

Haha yeah figured that much bud.

It'd have to be something you moved around during the rebuild. Just jumper the fuse box and then whatever catches fire was the problem.

It'll have something to do with wiring at the alternator

I caused a short at my alt once an that's the case that popped

Will do kurt.

Box yeah first time i hooked a battery up to it smoke was rolling off the positive.

Hmm, guess check the alternator like Kurt mentioned and we can take it from there.

Yeah hopefully i can trace it down here tomorrow. What don't work is everything inside PW,PL,CD,Gauges, Turn signals etc and also tailights.

Did you happen to mess with anything on the inside during the rebuild?

Not a thing man, unless a mouse or something chewed on some damn wiring.

Mice are evil like that.

They are and hope thats not the case. But hey atleast it runs baha who needs that girly stuff and working lights an such? not real men.

This post has been edited by Takumi-FujiWaraST: Oct 3, 2013 - 7:45 PM

Check the main power wire that runs from the battery to the starter if it smoked at hookup

Was thinking maybe something with the starter as well, but the car starts. Stupid electrical.

My nova did this at one point an it was caused by a small crack in the coating if I wiggled it from time to time it would still start till it settled back on the crack again

Stop wiggling it then.