im been wondering how to make my turbo spool faster, so i been searching a lot and all i find is junk. some say to port my exhaust inlet some say not to do it. other say so upgrade to bigger exhaust piping....... its confusing..




has anyone here actually tried doing something like that and notice any good results?


i ask this because my turbo starts spooling at 3000RPM and i reach full boost (11psi) at around 3,800 rpm. i would like to reach full boost way before that....


i got a generic t3t4 .57 trim and i believe the exhaust side is .63 on my 94 gt, internal waste-gate w/ manual boost controller, 2 1/2" exhaust piping


all help is appreciated

There are quite a few ways to allow your turbo to spool "faster". Could be as simple as getting larger exhaust piping from the down pipe on back (upgrading to 3in or larger exhaust). Could also be a more efficient inter-cooler. Better flow within the cylinder head etc. etc...Hate to say this but it depends alot on how much money you have and really what you plan on doing with your car or engine.

All in all there are alot of things that can be done, that in general, will improve the efficiency of your engine altogether (or car). As far as advice goes i cant offer any specifics towards your setup other than a larger diameter exhaust (such as a 3in down-pipe, catback, mid-pipe etc.). Maybe some of the More experienced will give much more helpful ideas ^_^

This post has been edited by 3WayStunna: Jun 6, 2012 - 1:41 PM

Quicker spool time? put a smaller turbo on. you're not going to knock off 800 RPM worth of spool by adding an exhaust, or cams. it's a give and take relationship.

This post has been edited by PhoenixTech: Jun 7, 2012 - 9:47 AM

Remove fuel + add ignition timing = quicker spool.

>

= BOOM!

add a 25 shot of nitrous, that will make you spool much faster

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This is the most realistic advice so far to work with what you have.

Getting a smaller turbo as stated by PhoenixTech is the best advice. A turbo boosting 11psi at 3800rpm isnt what you want unless youre using and upgraded valve train and bottom end. Using that big of a turbo youre really taking away from the fun that this car can be with a snail.

Things you can TRY to do? get a larger downpipe and do a cutout right after it, make an intake for you compressor where it can get colder air (theoretically better efficiency means faster spool), a better exhaust manifold (equal length tubular maniflold) will net you better spool time, but all of that is minimal, youll get maybe 200rpm out of all that money. Coating everything in ceramic or heatwrapping everything, using a compressor blanket etc is also beneficial... higher temperatures mean faster exhaust gas velocities.

Smaller turbo.

Disco potato.

thanks guys for all the info. i guess ill just stick where im at, i'll maybe just upgrade the downpipe and smooth out the exhaust turbine for now. i guess spooling at 3000rpm isnt that bad, the car still fun to drive.


what do you guys think about a t3t4 twin scroll turbo?

i got one of those ebay headers with a ct26 twin scroll outlet followed by a t3t4 to ct26 adapter, just single entry and then the turbo.


so if i ditch the adapter and get myself a twin scroll turbo, im sure ill be able to spool sooner. i heard twin scroll spool faster, so i was looking into that instead.




another question: if i have a boost leak, would that cause the turbo to spool slower? i start building boost at 3000rpm, full boost (11psi) at 3800rpm, then i get a small drop to 8psi around 4200-4400 rmpm and then it goes back up to 11psi from 4500rpm until redline.

Boost leaks will make you not only "spool slower" but reach peak PSI much slower. A small boost leak is enough to notice a difference.

Adapters are more of a con than a pro, they are there just to "make things work". Ideally, you'd get a twin-scroll t3/t4 or a ct-26, or use a tubular t3 manifold with a t3 turbo that has an internal wastegate (to avoid having to use a wastegate adapater as well)




http://www.ebay.com/itm/91-95-Celica-MR2-S...r#ht_3029wt_952

You need that, and this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/All-Honda-T3-Inter...r#ht_2450wt_952

BTW, "eBay turbos are crap" is history now. They've long since improved in everything, especially their turbos. You should only verify the wastegate hole is as big as the flap. Usually they are smaller (much smaller than they should be) and people bore them out to avoid boost creep) it only needs to be as big as the flap.

Hi,

to name a few methods except of fluid dynamics

- use actual turbo technology -> Borg Warner EFR
- twin entry
- try to get a high temp difference between turbo inlet and outlet on the exhaust side

greetz

PROBLEM SOLVED!


2 things were wrong with my car:

1) i did a boost leak test and i had a major boost leak at my bov, i guess the o-ring wasnt sealing right. all this time i though the turbo was making a nice spooling sound, but instead it was a lot of air leaking through there lol o-ring was replaced......


2) i removed the turbo and i checked how the gasket from the manifold matches up with turbo exhaust flange, and it turns out that the turbo had a bunch of metal that needed to be removed in order for the gasket to match... so i ported the opening to match the gasket and also ported my wastegate and polished the exhaust side to remove casting flaws.


THE RESULT:

I noticed a huge change in responsiveness, now that i reach full boost sooner; not only that but i got a smoother acceleration, i think this was due to the gasket matching on the turbo. And the best part is that i start boosting way sooner than before. By 3000 rpm im already at 5psi. and 11 at 3500 all the way to redline.

i also noticed that my boost is more consistent thanks to the porting of the wastegate. no more boost creep at higher RPM's, and the boost spike i had in the mid 3k's is pretty small now...



thanks guys for all your help,

i hope some one can find some of this info helpful.

having a good wastegate make a world of difference. im my 7th gen celica i had a Tial 37MM wastagate and suffered from horrible creep, once i upgraded to a 44mm it was dead locked at the level i wanted.

I have the new tial mvr 44mm unit too, using the 3psi spring it creeps up to 7psi and stays there

Unless you are running antilag, the only real way to get better spool is to get a better turbo.

Generic t3t4 turbos are journal bearing, single entry, and the compressor wheels are often not matched well with the turbine wheel. They also enjoy a very short lifespan because of inferior manufacturing techniques...

Ball bearing, extended tip, and twin entry turbos from reputable manufacturers are the way to go. In terms of the turbo, you get exactly what you pay for...

although it did fix your problem the BOV probably wasn't your issue. think about how BOVs work. under boost they are pushed closed, then when you let off the gas, the vacuum in the IM pulls the BOV open. in fact on my 7th gen, at idle the BOV was wide open. this is because the vacuum was able to pull it open. but once i was cruising or boosting, it was closed.

its possible that when you did your boost leak test and the engine was off, the BOV was slightly open, just possible....

Go catless, bigger exhaust smaller turbo you will have quick spool, in my miata im at 10psi at 2800 with a t25 with about 200whp

when i did the leak test the engine was off, but i covered the BOV with my hand.. it was leaking from under it on the flange that connects to the intake pipe. mine had a rubber O-Ring and then and one of those metal clips to secure it. thats where it was leaking from.....


as far as the turbo goes, im pretty happy where its at right now, ill upgrade as soon as i got more $$$$ lol im happy with the way it performing right now.

my older mexican friend used to drag race a lot in the early 90's with his little supercharged mustang beast. He told me that he raced against a turbo minivan once that blew most everyone out of the water. He said he caught up with the guy and asked him what he did, the guy had welded a fitting on his exhaust manifold and had a tank of compressed air with an electronic valve on top. The guy would flip a switch at idle while waiting on the track and the air burst would spool up his impeller on the turbo before he launched off the line, giving him a huge advantage. Of course the huge downside to this would be that you have to fill up the air tank probably every day. The guy's setup would last a few drag runs according to my friend.

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Wow that sounds pretty incredible and a great idea at that!

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I can't confirm that it actually happened and that my friend was telling the truth, but he has told me stories before that were pretty unbelievable that were confirmed by his wife. I've seen his pics with john force, and he was on a drag pit crew of some other drag racer though, so he's been around the drag industry for a while. Most likely it's true. Yeah, great idea though.

You'd need the air nozzle IN the housing though at just the right angle to the wheel, and probably need 2 or more to get enough air moving fast enough in there. I know little bits of water injected to the intake ports will spool a turbo up too, I was 'steaming' the carbon out of a Capri Turbo one time and everytime I'd dip into the water bottle to suck into the intake manifold the turbo would spool up some.

lmao that crazy, blowing compressed air on the exhaust....im working on a water injection system right not but i havent installed it, ran into a few issues..... =/

i'd be concerned about the sudden burst of compressed air pushing against the turbine blades, especially when the turbo has warmed up.

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oh yeah, that's a good point. Compressed air is colder when released, and that would warp hot metal. Anyway, as I said in the post, I'm just relaying the story from an older drag racer friend. Not sure if it's true or not.

not very cost effective, but CO2 injection

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AUidKVzm0aQ