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Wet Sanding - 6G Celicas Forums

Topic #8652 9 posts Started by 94Toy
Come this summer I am actually going to detail my paint for the first time. I know how to prep with a wax remover first before doing anything. My question is on wet sanding. I am going to use 2000 grit paper but my question is does direction matter; circular, up and down whatever. My grandpa owned an autobody shop so I have seen people do this before, and my mom used to work for him so she knows how to do it, but neither or us can remember if I am supposed to use a circular motion like in polishing and waxing or if it doesn't really matter.

John

This post has been edited by 94Toy: Jan 11, 2004 - 11:47 PM

X-pattern

Believer, you'll leave her, in leaving them allNo but I don't buy itLike anything you do, as anyone you areCause I'm...Ten Speed, of God's Blood & Burial
if u plan on using 2000, its going to take you forever and a day!

don't do it in a circular motion
I think you'll be ok with 600-800 grit, change sand paper often to avoid scratchs especially when using an orbital sander.

Hey K2 what the hell is an Xpatern?? >tongue.gif> Is that like going one direction over the piece and then perpendicular over the piece? I work at a shop that paints polymer parts for cars and I just go in one direction, not that i was ever shown the correct way, I just do what looks good >tongue.gif>
600-800? Isn't that a little rough. My grandpa used that when he was preping to actually re-paint a car not just bring the stock paint back.

and I'm not doing it with an electric sander. I'm doing it all by hand. Yes, I know that will take forever, but I don't want to get carried away with an electric sander.

This post has been edited by 94Toy: Jan 12, 2004 - 9:59 PM

it depends. if you are just cleaning it up. use 2000-grit. if you are sanding out scratches or paint runs or stuff use 800. X-pattern is just going one direction then switch and cross, like a X. and yea, use a softblock or hard block, use a power sander only if you are featheredging or stripping paint.

Believer, you'll leave her, in leaving them allNo but I don't buy itLike anything you do, as anyone you areCause I'm...Ten Speed, of God's Blood & Burial
another thing is dont just dive in and try to do like one side at once or something. im sure your grandpa or mom have told you, but a good thing to do is to completely tape off one pannel at a time and go from one corner to the other. dont try to sand corners too much, the corners burn through alot quicker than anyother spot. 2000grit you shouldnt have a problem with eating through the clear coat, but just make sure you do it smart. this is gunna be like a 1-2 week project if you are the only one working on it and dont want to spend more than 3-4 hours a day on it.

Believer, you'll leave her, in leaving them allNo but I don't buy itLike anything you do, as anyone you areCause I'm...Ten Speed, of God's Blood & Burial
I was just about to add a new topic about this but since you started one already about a similar subject I'll just reply to it: I just finished using Mother's California Gold Clay Bar on my car (see picture)

user posted image

and I swear to you my paint looks like new. You may think your car is clean when you give it a good and thorough wash but its not. Your carwash soap will only remove so much, a lot of stuff is left behind making the paint look dull. See the link for a better explanation. I'm just telling you guys it really works...and works great, it just takes a lot of elbow grease. I used the thing on my whole car. Next thing I'm gonna do is use high gloss wax on it. >smile.gif>

Clay Bar Explanation