I finally found some time to assemble my DIYPNP kit today. :thumbup
The assembly process wasn't too bad. Everything was clearly labeled and the instructions were easy to follow. But if youre reading this and you bought an MSPNP, consider yourself lucky as soldering lots of very tiny components too up most of the day (and I'm still not done!).

I started out with this:


And after a few hours here is where I'm at!



This is the kit I'm using.
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/diypnp-...-kit-p-384.html

Along with the sequential injection mod.
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/diypnp-...-kit-p-386.html

what is it going to be running?

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My 2nd gen 3sgte.

I love MS.

Did you get the JimStim?

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No. I'm using DIYPNP and it doesn't really work well with jimstim so I'll just have to test it on the car.

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Damn do it really really carefully, you won't want to troubleshoot that Did you get this before the MSPNP for the 2nd gen came out?

Art, you are one crazy mother trucker.

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I got it after the MSPNP was out. I wanted the diy kit to save some money, but in hindsight the additional $300 that they charge is well worth the amount of time and research it takes to assemble one! It also didn't help that I'm one of the first few people to do this kit on a 3sgte, and there is no specific howto for the 3sgte. But I will say, the guys from diyautotune have given me the most amazing customer service and support in getting this setup! They will be posting up my install notes once I verify that everything is working.

Anyway, here it is all completed. Tomorrow I hook it up to the car, load the firmware, and find out if I messed anything up!








This post has been edited by lagos: Oct 12, 2012 - 1:09 AM

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Yeah, unless you have a friend like I do who'll do the work for you for a couple of bucks, it's much better to get a MS-II or MS-III pre-assembled, let alone the DIYPNP. The MSPNP even comes with a base map for you to build from and fully integrates the OEM stuff perfectly, and has room for upgrades to boot (say you can later open it up and make it a fully-sequential capable with just a couple of bucks for the parts necessary to solder in)

And DIYAutoTune's customer service is, by FAR, the best customer service I've had. I remember talking to 3 different service reps before buying my MS-II and having my friend convincing me to get it pre-assembled so he could get some cash out of it (I still saved some vs if I had bought it pre-assembled), and they were all so kind and complacent... infinite patience? it seemed like they had it haha.

P.S. It's looking kickass and I wish you the best of luck, glad to have somebody else on the board using MS.

This post has been edited by Syaoran: Oct 12, 2012 - 1:53 AM

i havent seen any threads in regards to tuning, since it can all be done DIY, it would be good when you guys can to share some information about your tuning,

eg,

software - tunerstudio?
additional sensors - eg bosch wideband
tips for afr target auto tune - partial load? full load? how much boost to run?
listening for knock and setting ignition timing
setting fuel/ign trims


is this something we should even be getting into without some sort of tuning school?

Art, I am stoked to see this thread come up. I will be following along closely. I recently decided to go with the DIYPNP set-up on my car (3rd gen), initially just as a piggy back to get the fuel tuned, and then further on from there when I get comfortable with the process. Keep us updated!

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Yes Tunerstudio is what you will use.
You also need a wideband. Not just the sensor something that comes with a controller/gauge like innovative, aem, etc...

Look through the documentation on www.diyautotune.com . They have a lot of tuning tips.
Since they have an MSPNP for our engine now, you will get a good basemap to work with and only have to make some small adjustments. You can tune the a/f ratio yourself on the street but ignition timing really has to be done on a load based dyno (not dynojet).

Knock detection is one area where the different versions of MS differ greatly. The DIYPNP has very basic knock detection, the MSPNP offers something thats middle of the road, while MS3 has VERY good knock detection. This is an area you will want to research to decide what you want to do. Personally I decided to go with an J&S Knock Guard for knock detection. This will offer great detection and allow me to maybe even street tune some of my ignition timing.

All the other settings for crank angle, temperature sensors,etc... all come on the base map included!

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TunerStudio is more than good enough, and it's free. If you don't have a serial port in your tuning laptop, a USB-to-serial adapter will be needed and there's many around for that, however there's only one (the most expensive one at RadioShack) that won't give you any issues. The cheaper ones work but will sometimes simply not want to connect your Laptop to the MS.

I have an MS-II. In retrospect I should've gotten a MS-III and will most likely upgrade eventually for the additional stuff (if my goals so require it, for now MS-II is enough).

Given you no longer need to use ANY of your factory sensors when you go MS-II or MS-III (MSPNP will require all stock sensors minus AFM if applicable (Gen 2s have AFM which can be removed when MSPNP is installed) but you can get aftermarket sensors that can be calibrated to work flawlessly since the software is the same as MS-II)

I want to do a distributorless ignition setup but for now a hybrid, wasted spark setup will have to do. I'm currently running the stock distro in my 5S, which isn't compatible at all. For a 3S, I'd get the Electromotive Tec3 crank trigger wheel setup and use the sensor it comes with in the package. There's a company that sells a crank and cam trigger wheel setup with 1zz coil on plug coil packs for full-sequential capabilities... you guys have it all.

Once I go boost I'm going to adapt a GM IAT sensor to my cold pipe and I'll try to put in a GM knock sensor in the stock location if possible. I want automatic knock retard when I go boosted, without having to purchase additional units/modules.

As for widebands, the best one to go with is the Innovate LC-1, it's proven to work and is VERY compatible with MS. It's the one they sell on their website, even. You can get a genuine controller, gauge and sensor combo on eBay for about 170 bucks too, so it's cheaper than most of its competition.

MS-II, MSPNP and MS-III all have target AFR auto-tune capabilities.

As for tuning, unless you've done tuning before I wouldn't touch the maps. They're basically the same as stock 3S-GTE maps on the MSPNP unit. I personally haven't tuned anything myself, I have a friend that does tuning for a living and wanted to learn how to use TunerStudio so I let him do it, and he's currently tuning my Celica.

So is the base map good to drive on after an AFR auto tune?

would i have any need to change ignition system components?

i have gen3 3s-gte

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This is what I'm dealing with right now. I keep getting comport errors and I'm using the adapter from DIYAutotune! I don't know if the issue is with my soldering/wiring or with the adapter.

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The MSPNP is for the Gen2 3SGTE. You'll need MS-II or MS-III for the gen3. In your case I'd get MS-III. There's a lot of things you can get for the 3S-GTE ignition-wise, but the best bang for the buck is keeping it how it is and simply reading off a 36-1 crank trigger wheel with a VR sensor. You won't have to c


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Yeah, it's not your soldering. That's normal, even with their adapter. Even I get errors sometimes, but it's a rare occurrence. This is the one I'm using:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...oductId=3120513

The best cables are the ones with an FTDI chipset (you can look them up as "USB to RS232 Serial cable FTDI Chipset")

Here's an example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-USB-to-Serial-...e#ht_3264wt_952

This post has been edited by Syaoran: Oct 12, 2012 - 8:51 PM

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Hmm I hope your right because right now I can't even load the firmware on it! And I tried at least 4 different laptops.

This post has been edited by lagos: Oct 12, 2012 - 9:00 PM

I'm assuming you followed this? http://www.diyautotune.com/diypnp/docs1_5/...g_firmware.html

I can't help you much with DIYPNP since what I know is exclusively MS-II which is a tad different d:

You have to set the correct com port and you have to manually adjust the settings for the com port with the correct Baud Rate and options on you PC, or it will never read with the Megasquirt correctly, especially If your using a USB to Serial adapter.

Baud Rate = 115200
Data Bits = 8
Parity = None
stop bits = 1
Flow control = none

These are found under Port Settings in Device Manager for your adapter.
Baud Rate is the only one that needs changed, make sure it matches with the stuff above. Usually the old ones required a baud rate of 9600 especially on the MS1 and 2 system

The settings sound OK. At this point, it looks like the only things to suspect are the adapter and the module; I'm not seeing any obvious assembly errors. If the USB adapter passes a loopback test, email me and I'll set up a warranty return on the MicroSquirt Module.

This topic sparks my interest.

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Thanks for joining our forum here Matt! I'll keep you posted!

You did Jumper the board for programming........right?

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Yes the boot jumper is in place. I even have continuity between ground and the boot pin on microsquirt, so the jumper is on and working.
I also performed loopback tests on the usb to serial cable, as well as a loopback going through the board. Everything checked out.

The only problem I found is that I'm not getting either 5v or ground (not sure which I should have with diypnp) on pin9 of the db9 connector. I don't know if this is what's causing the issue.

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^^ Good info.

In my line of work we have to use those types of USB>RS232 for many applications as the others fall off. Some of the equipment is very close in design for what you guys are doing, just it controls transmitters =P

I take it that your board is getting 12V+ from your car and a good GND connection? Its difficult to troubleshoot when their isn't any wiring schematics at DIYautotune

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Yup. My 12v and 5v pins all check out and it looks like microsquirt is getting power. I ran serial loop back tests through the pcb board, have continuity between the serial port pinouts and microsquirt and I'm getting power and ground at all the right pinouts from the serial port. Everything should work.

You're right, I didn't see any detailed schematics for the diypnp 1.5b pcb board like there are for ms2, ms3, and microsquirt. But from what I can tell, it looks like the serial port goes directly through the pcb board into the microsquirt module, so if I have continuity between the serial port and pcb, everything should work.

So all signs are point to it being an issue with the preassembled micrsquirt board. I'll be sending it back to diyautotune for testing and hopefully it ends up being a warranty replacement issue.

Good Luck!

:bump: What happened to this!

hopefully its not like my project :eeps: