Hi everyone--
I got a lot of burn marks on both the plate of the clutch and the flywheel. The clutch is Competition Clutch Stage 2. The flywheel is stock; resurfaced when clutch was installed. I had the clutch less than a year and put less than 10K on it. I drove it pretty easy, and did not abuse it. Not sure what caused it. I'm getting the engine rebuilt, that's why I saw my clutch out.
So my questions?

Do I have them just put the clutch back in? Will those burn marks hurt anything?

Should I order a new plate from Competition Clutch and get new flywheel? btw does getting a new plate fix the clutch?

Thank you






This post has been edited by JasonX: Dec 9, 2012 - 3:20 AM

So what engine do you have that you need a stage 2 clutch? Cause if its a stock 5sfe, then just go OEM. Now that you have it apart, I , personally, wouldn't put it back in without resurfacing the flywheel and getting a new clutch disc and pressure plate.

I got the Stage 2 thinking it'll last longer than stock. Below pics are my stock clutch components. If I went back to stock, can I use the Competition Clutch disc with the stock clutch? would that make anything better. Also, I still do not fully understand why the Competition Clutch Stage 2 is said to be bad because of the marks, considering it is smooth and has no cracks, also fairly new. Any explanation would be great. Thx.

I'd resurface the flywheel and go back to OEM everything. S54 is perfect the way it is with stock components. It grabs plenty hard, its cheaper, and typically it'll last longer then a "comp/race" clutch setup. Plus its better on your trans, grab too hard and you'll tear up your spline.

thx. Also, based on the photos I posted, which pressure plate should I use? the aftermarket (first photo) or the oem? what would happen as far as feel if I used the aftermarket one? does my oem look okay? thx (btw the shine on the last photo is not glazing, just shiny from the flash)

This post has been edited by JasonX: Dec 9, 2012 - 2:54 PM

Just you don't want to mix and match different stage parts. If you're going to use OEM, then get all OEM, especially the TOB. The oem throw out bearing will last longer than any other ones out there.

Most of your "performance clutches" or "stage 2 clutches" etc. are designed for track use not daily driving. The OEM parts will last you a lot longer on a day to day basis then the "stage 2". I would only spend the money on maybe a lighter flywheel and stick to an organic clutch. Here is a great article on this subject from ACT http://www.modified.com/tech/modp-1206-in-...utch-tech-talk/

well the stage 2 was fun while it lasted. I'm going to deliver the stock clutch to shop tomorrow, have them resurface the flywheel, and install new throw out bearing. I'm sure my left leg will be happy, and wife won't hate the jerkiness anymore, lol.

OMG here you all go again on the stage bandwagon. Yes i know thats how manufacturers identify their stuff. i just hate the term stage.

there is no standard for stage. company A has a stage 2 clutch which is the same holding power of company B stage 3 or 4. see what i mean. now if stage 2 was stage 2 for all the manufacturers, then ill be ok with it.

no on to your problem. you can mix and match components, that not a problem. and most of the clutches power is from the pressure plate and its clamping force. you could get away with the OEM pressure plate and the aftermarket disk. that should give you a soft pedal feel but good grip.