So I installed my intank pump and ran wires to it..Tried jumping it and wouldn't start. I made sure both pumps had current and were priming, check. Fuel pressure in the hose, check.

So I unscrewed the return line and set it in an empty gas can, jumped B+ and FP, turned the key, fuel pumps running (got strained quickly) aaaand no fuel going into the gas can.
Something is clogged.
This is mildly annoying...

edit:
It's my fuel filter..unless for some reason the line between the filter and pump is clogged.
I'm gonna go with fuel filter..

This post has been edited by Malek: Dec 13, 2013 - 7:02 PM

Thanks for detailing your progress, i'm also planning on a turbo/awd swap. Quick question, being that the gt4 control arms cause the front wheels to be half an inch forward is there a way to correct this? Thanks

Malek,

do you know what diameter DOM tubing they used for your subframe?

>

The rear wheels are moved half an inch forward. What you could do *possibly* is use the gt control arms but you would have to weld the subframe mounts further back. It doesn't really bother me right now but I know if I want bigger wheels, it will become an issue of the tires rubbing the sideskirts/body.


>

Yisss..
The size is 1.625x.120 for the hoop and the actual mount is 1.625x.125



Somewhat of a small update:
My intank pump crapped out on me so I'm running the walbro inline only now. For some reason though, it is exponentially quieter now that it isn't being fed. And yeah, I'm drivin her 'round now. I'll get some pictures and videos once I clean it up a little bit haha

Any updates on the weld in kit? Or is it possible we can pay to order since all of the files are saved?

Oh boy..haven't updated this in a while..then again, there really isn't much. It's just been sittin around. I can't *legally* drive it on the streets so I haven't had too much motivation.

Anyway, here's what is new. Welded in a metal floor for the trunk. Setting the tank under was a hassle and I don't think I would have ever liked it. So yeah, just to strap down that tank and run the lines. May be switching to hard lines. Idk yet.

As far as the weld in kits..Hopefully I can get some more information. They've been super busy lately now that all the car shows are coming back for the season.





Wait..how'd this get in here..?

This is what I got haha don't mind the dirt. It's all been cleaned up since this picture.



Coming Up:
-Fuel hose to stock fender filler
-WRX rotors (because the ST205 ones rub the lower joint on corners)
-Supra Pads
-New Kumho Ecsta tires...because Colorado

As far as driving it, I've put about 1100 miles. Launched twice, beautiful feeling. Really front end heavy in the canyons but I'm hoping next Spring's suspension work will help. Looking at BCs if anyone was curious.

I'm really considering a side exit exhaust simply because I have no room to pipe over the rear subframe. For now, I ghetto welded an exhaust that runs under all of it and it just looks out of place and terrible. Maybe fill that huge open space with a diffuser..hmm..

sexy.

so when you mounted up the rear end, you just used the forward arms to align and mounted up the drive shaft and measured the distance?

after a long break, I'm now a welder/machinist so I'd be interested in building them weld-in-kits.

cnc all the things.

Yep! The forward arms are about 1/2in shorter than the GTs so the rear wheels are moved up a bit.

I measured it all out to mock something up in Solidworks. I then took it down to Hanksville Hotrods and talked to Hank (welder/fabricator/awesomedude). We came up with we got on page 5.

yup, I liked what I saw. No measurements eh?

it's no problem.

I wonder if using the GT forward arms would be worth anything? the driveshaft would need to be extended the difference too.

would you know if the GT rear shocks work with the AWD spindle?

From reading pretty deep into other builds/discussions, I'd be right in assuming I could use the GT spindle/knuckle and get a highlander hub(since i'm converting to 5x114)...I already have rav4 rear hubs waiting to go on.

i've only seen featureCam but haven't really used it much yet...I still use manual machines(mill/lathe) with a DRO, though playing on a Omax waterjet is hella fun.

I miiight still have the SolidWorks files. I did it on the campus computers and took screenshot pictures to show Hank. My university is really touchy about personal inventions drawn up or created on campus because technically it belongs to them...anyways..I'll see if I can't dig them up. They weren't exact, just something to give Hank an idea of what I was thinking.

As for using the GT forward arms, I forgot to bring them with me so we couldn't see if there were any other fitment issues other than the length of the drive shaft. In fact, I'm pretty sure the drive shaft has enough wiggle room to be pulled back 1/2in and still be fine. One thing with shorter wheel base is you can't run tall tires or it'll hit the front of the rear arch. Anyway, machining a spacer would be a lot easier than making an extended drive shaft. Just a thought haha

The GT rear shocks do not work with the AWD spindle. IIRC, the GT shock where it mounts to the spindle is thinner than its GT4 counterpart. I'm using the GT4 rear suspension because of that fitment issue. That brings up another issue, if you don't do the front SuperStrut conversion and want coilovers in the future, you'll have to order GT front coilovers and GT4 rear coilovers. I'll be doing that in the Spring; I'm riding super high now haha

I'm not quite the machinist but i can design/draw up parts for days haha and yes, I do take into consideration the machine shop that has to make the parts..I'm sure you've seen terribly designed parts already.


Oh and some updates!

Some brand new rubber:


Old 3 post hatch


new 2 post hatch...for GT4 reasons..


This post has been edited by Malek: Oct 18, 2014 - 7:28 PM

I just did the same conversion myself In my opinion it does look better! and there are so many spoiler options! I chose the Euros Looking great though man!

>

sucks about your campus rules about creative rights, only way to get better is to explore...that'd be sexy if you still have a starting point. I managed to get the install disc of the waterjet software so I can design stuff at home...also got a copy of featureCam installed, but it won't let me save any files without the $400 usb that comes with the machine = stupid

www.sketchup.com is awesome but a little tricky to use starting off.

I may go with the GT forward arms, I can machine a spacer for the rear diff no problem vs having the driveshaft extended 1/2"...I'm thinking it would cost over $200 as the shop would probably opt to cut a whole new tube instead of trying to weld on an extension.

I think the only other issues to consider with the forward arms is the rear cradle mount locations. while 1/2" is minor, it could still get in the way of something.

I have the AWD system that I ordered years ago from Jim, but all of it needs some serious cleaning and refreshing. my cv's are torn...so i'd have to rebuild or find a seller

ironically, my order came with front superstrut bilstein coilovers(no idea if they are still good) but no rear struts/springs.

beyond the shocks, if the GT and GT4 rear spindles are the same, i'll try and use my GT's for ease of parts.


you should see some of the drawings I make sometimes, just some basic shapes and numbers, no one but me would understand it, until they see the finished piece hehe


damn I missed this forum!

This post has been edited by luka: Oct 18, 2014 - 11:33 PM

>


OK GT and GT4 spindles/knuckles (front or rear) are NOT teh same, given one has a hole for the axles and different mount points.
Think about it for a second....GT = FWD which means the rear spindle is solid http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/ebrock63...2-25_122008.png

GT4 rear spindle is for AWD which means there is a hole in the middle for the axle. http://www.gtfours.co.uk/pics/suspension/205/006.jpg

To do AWD you need GT4 rear end parts the lot around.

Here is a picture of a USDM mcpherson REAR strut on a GT4 rear knuckle..Plug the hole and redrill it should be good.
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e376/azn...2-06-11_968.jpg

>

Hmm, I was under the assumption that the rear bearing hub assembly is either solid for FWD applications or with the spline cutout...making the spindle usable as long as a matching hub to accept the rear axle, like a highlander(for 5x114) rear hub?

Since the rear bearing hubs are bolted on, making it somewhat easier to work on vs needing a press or bearing tools for the fronts.

I got the idea from my truck, the front bearing hub is bolted in just like the Celica rears are, however 2wd have a solid center and 4wd have a spline cutout to accept the 4wd axles.

I'll try and break down my GT4 rear hubs today and see.

The GT4 rear doesn't have a bolt on rear bearing/spindle/hub assembly.
You have the knuckle and then the bearing inside the knuckle and then the hub (basically the same as the FRONT of a USDM celica)

So the USDM rear looks like this (which yes you can remove the celica hub and press in a Highlander hub, but you cannot go AWD with anything from the rear of USDM car, with the exception of possibly the coilover)
http://www.partsgeek.com/assets/rep/full/1041668.jpg

or maybe i'm just not understanding what you are saying correctly ha

ahh, that clears it up perfectly!

so my main query would be about the cost of using the GT4 rear suspension

If the following works, it could save a bit money needing to import some coilovers.

GT spindle with highlander bolt in hub & possibly need to convert/mod the rear CV

or

GT4 spindle and press in a camry? front hub & and possible CV work.

most of the conversions I've seen have used all of the GT4 parts, so I'm not sure if finding a way to use the GT hardware was done.

I have no idea about the cross compatibility with hubs and 5x114 conversion nonsensical things..

So here's some pictures lol New tires mounted 215/50/17 Ecsta PA31. Side skirts removed. #rallyheight until the spring.

Made an offer on some spoiler risers.









And some interior shots..because it's somewhat clean..I really hate those beige cards..

Great looking car. good work

Last year, I bought an ST205 HKS Silent Hi Power exhaust thinking it'd fit. It didn't (duh )

Figured I could just hold on to it and sell it when gt4s become legal imports or modify it to fit my car..ended up cutting it up to fit mine. Had to still go under the subframe since there is literally no room for a 3in pipe (even 2.5in would be tight!).

Vibrant resonator and HKS muffler SS 3in . Super Quiet now!

I took this video with my S5..it didn't pick up the sound too well but it's something. I'll have to get a driving video up soon. (embed Photobucket vids?)
DarkSpyro Exhaust

Why are the rear wheels so off-centered? They look like they're set too far forward..

>

It's because they are. The ST205 forward arms are about a half an inch shorter than the GT.

>

ohh, learned something new today haha

After much debate, I've decided it has come time to sell..

I'll be writing a proper FS ad here soon but wanted to throw it out there.

BUT..BUT..BUT..

Lol. It is always the same

Unfortunately, yes..it is haha

As a military member, I don't exactly have a choice of duty stations. Where I'm going next, it just doesn't make sense to keep it. I won't be able to drive it and I don't want to store it for the next, potentially, 4 years.

Gotta do whatya gotta do. Loved building it though haha

And as always..I am sure to be back

bump

I guess I never did close the loop here lol

A high HP MR2 guy ended up buying it. If anyone is around Canon City, CO they might have seen it rolling around. I haven't heard from him the day he drove it away though.

I still have the GT-Four though!

Now I need to make a day trip down to Cañon City.