i just purchased a celica with a st185 swap from decker here on the forums. reading up everything now.
any suggestions or tips for what not to-do's or anyhting other helpful links would be appreciated.

so for what i know, 2nd gen 3sgte which reads about 12-13 on the boost gauge. driving it back to houston from kansas city the air/fuel ratio was jumping crazy between lean and rich the whole time. not sure if defected meter or something else.
also realized that the top mount intercooler isnt a good idea but im still reading and researching on that. And also trying to find how to get a BOV on the setup(i want that "patishh" sound lol)
keep in mind that this will be my first turboed/swapped car, so im pretty much the dumbest of dumbest...dont really know much. any tips and suggestions work.

Lol don't worry, you'll become a mechanic in no time

Here's a good starter link Tips for 3SGTE/GT4

Does the afr gauge jump everywhere on steady throttle?

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Yea I saw that one...it's for a st205 and I got a st185 ( engine atleast)..ill check codes....
And the a/f does it when it's off sometimes too AND AT IDLE.
And it idles at 2300 Rpms is that normal?

Any tips on intercooler?

A/F gauges are supposed to bounce back and forth at idle and cruising. that is the O2 feed back working. if you are at full throttle is should stay at a steady reading.

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The AF ratio should bounce around at idle and cruising speeds. This is called closed loop operation. If you have a wideband af gauge, then you will see this as 14-15afr. Once you floor the car, the af ratio should eventually go into the 10-12afr rage. If all you saw on the gauge was a light show (no actual numbers) then you have a narrow band af ratio gauge. These are only good at telling you your car has gone into closed loop mode, as you describe.

Obviously 2,300 rpm warm idle is not normal. Check to make sure you don't have any disconnected vac hoses, and that your idle control valve is connected under the throttle body.

This post has been edited by lagos: Apr 15, 2013 - 10:36 AM

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ill check into the vac lines...
i have the gauge with lights only. is a closed loop mode normal or a bad thing?

its just like you described: jumping at idle and cruise, when i floor it (more throttle) it goes up and vice-versa when letting go the throttle for short time.

Closed loop, I think, is where the ECU works from a set map to determine air and fuel, under certain conditions. Open loop is where it takes readings from sensors to determine air and fuel. For example, cold start is at closed loop, once at operating temperature open loop occurs. Please correct if I'm wrong...

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Apr 16, 2013 - 8:19 PM

Closed loop is when the ECU adjust the fueling based on the O2 sensor feedback. This happen at idle and cruising state on a warmed up engine. At higher load/RPM, the engine is in open loop because it's not using the O2 sensor feedback for his fueling calculation. He's basing the fueling on the internal fuel map (RPM vs load).

Closed loop is a good thing. As lagos pointed out, boucing AFR between 14 and 15 is totally normal at idle and cruising. When boosting or at high RPM you should see around 11-12 AFR on your gauge (assuming you have a wideband AFR gauge).

Sam

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you are backwards

Yea I need help on mine AFR too. When cold start itll stay around 14-15 then gradually goes higher to 17-18 on idle. But when car is fully warm it still does the same and when i give it gas then it'll move back to 14-15. When i floor it its okay and stays at 11-13 and sometimes 10-12. I know the shop removed the charcoal canister and all these things started happening

EDIT: Car is running 3sgte w/DrTweak harness on AEM EMS. Boost is set at 12psi only

This post has been edited by team_omega: Apr 18, 2013 - 1:47 PM

Alright more specific question.
I looked at idle more carefully. Cold start its at 12-1400
And warm is 14-1700. I visually looked for vacume leaks couldn't see anything. I don't have the vacume diagram (haven't searched yet honestly) but I spent a good time tracking all hoses they seem all plugged

I think it's the timing because I also hear a 'burp' kinda like missing ehen its idling. Probably every 4-5 seconds not major, only hear it if ur paying attention.

What do u guys think? And if it IS the timing any way to so if without a timing gun? I took it to two shops locally and one couldn't do it and one told me I have a carburetor so they're just retarded. Lol

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LMFAO oh my god. They should just close up now.