Is it 100% necessary to remove the oil pan when removing the oil pump, or could those 5 or so bolts be taken out and then just slip out the pump and re-seal it upon re-installing?

The one annoying thing about this fix (beside removal and install of timing belt) is taking off the oil pan, and cutting that out of the picture would cut down the fix time

so...yay...or nay

oil pick up tube is connected to the pump. yes, you will have to remove the oil pans to get to it.

Yep, gota pull it all off.

son of a b I forgot about the pickup. aw well. winter project thatll be.

let the SOB leak

Mike, If your problem is just the little seal around the oil pump, you shouldn't have to pull the pan.

I didn't when I replaced mine. But then I also, just replaced the pump, not the whole front plate.

It was like 6 bolts after all the timing stuff comes off. Its a 2 hour job. Tops.

EDIT:



Its usually the seal for the actual oil pump, not the front plate.

When you put the new gasket on, just remember to add a little FIPG to it to keep it in place. I went through 3 gaskets before I learned that trick.

This post has been edited by bloodMoney: Aug 6, 2013 - 1:36 PM

i believe it is that gasket but I was thinking of replacing the crankshaft seal (just to be sure even thought it doesnt leak)

Might just do that gasket first and see if that does the trick. I'll add a couple dabs of fipg too. maybe thatll be the extra bit to keep it from leaking!

i swear ive probably leaked a total of 20+ gallons over the past however long its been leaking.

thanks for the tid bit

No problem. You can ask Daniel, I went through 4 quarts of oil on the 5 hour drive to his house. It was bad.

short of a cracked block there really cant be anywhere else its coming from

Exactly.

If you want to really be sure, once you get the motor mount, timing covers, etc out of the way, you can start the engine for a few seconds just to confirm that its coming from the pump.

Just be sure to clean it up real good first. It'll be pretty obvious where its coming from.

You don't need to pull the mount. Everything is quite accessible without doing so.

Get the pump shaft seal and replace that as well while you have it out.

everything was just replaced this past winter. Im going to just throw in a new rotor perimeter seal with some fipg and see if that does the job

Oil pump is quite easy, oil pump housing is not

I wouldn't use FIPG on the perimeter seal. I would use vaseline to hold it in place instead, if you're using an OEM seal. They're designed to go on "dry" (with no other adhesives/gasket makers etc). It could send a piece of FIPG right into your oil stream and clog up something, I simply wouldn't even consider risking it.

Use 100% white petrolatum-based pretroleum jelly/Vaseline brand. It is soluble in oil so if it goes into your oil stream it won't do anything harmful at all. In fact, it's what I used to prime my oil pump rotor since it's so thick and sticky.

P.S. make sure to check before going at the perimeter seal like bloodMoney recommended.