im trying to upload a vid of how it is now with the stock airbox but it seems photobucket mobile loads it up but once i go to the site on the cpu it doesnt show up? so ill try make another one or wait later see if it finally decides to show up.
Red Top Beams cold start issue - 6G Celicas Forums
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Well im using all the parts that i bought from forgmann and all look in way better condition than my throttle hose and maf and hoses so yea its working a bit smoother but yea you're most definitely Right
you gotta try it out to believe it and i honestly can agree with everyone out there that said the stock air box is better now
lesson learned. as for making an account on mr2 forum ill get on it and see what info i can get.
much appreciated with all your help guys.
QUOTE (richee3 @ Dec 28, 2013 - 1:16 AM) 
>Yet another testament to the OEM intake. You can read online 100,000 times about how much better it is than all the other intakes but you have to experience it to believe it. As for the VSV, the JDM Celica had give brake fluid reservoir on the other side of the car so it doesn't quite fit in our cars. I simply tucked mine underneath the intake area.
How does your PCV look? Any cracks in any hoses anywhere? How about the inside of the throttle body? I'm wondering if the idle issue isn't a result of a vacuum leak or possibly one of the air ducts clogged between the throttle body and ISCV.
Also, be sure to sign up here and ask these guys. Surely someone there has some relevant experience with a similar issue.
www.mr2.com/forums/forums/127-BEAMS-Owners-Group
How does your PCV look? Any cracks in any hoses anywhere? How about the inside of the throttle body? I'm wondering if the idle issue isn't a result of a vacuum leak or possibly one of the air ducts clogged between the throttle body and ISCV.
Also, be sure to sign up here and ask these guys. Surely someone there has some relevant experience with a similar issue.
www.mr2.com/forums/forums/127-BEAMS-Owners-Group
Well im using all the parts that i bought from forgmann and all look in way better condition than my throttle hose and maf and hoses so yea its working a bit smoother but yea you're most definitely Right
you gotta try it out to believe it and i honestly can agree with everyone out there that said the stock air box is better now
lesson learned. as for making an account on mr2 forum ill get on it and see what info i can get.
much appreciated with all your help guys.
Heres a vid of how the car preforms with the oem airbox and warm engine (my phone sucks with the auto tilting and what not sorry best vid i could get)
As you can see the exhaust is now very quiet like a prius lol and the car now idles at about 700-750 which i would say is pretty normal
As you can see the exhaust is now very quiet like a prius lol and the car now idles at about 700-750 which i would say is pretty normal
I still think your IAC is dirty or going.
It's a common thing for our cars.
I didn't notice, what exhaust do you have ? Stock ? custom ?
It's a common thing for our cars.
I didn't notice, what exhaust do you have ? Stock ? custom ?
my st205 swapandour Beams swap
The issue is that the stock airbox likely has some special plastic fins and shapes that affect airflow past the airflow sensor, 7th gen GTS's have some fins that are needed and often omitted in aftermarket intakes. The solution is to cut the stock intake for the plastic section that's needed and stick it inline in the aftermarket intake.
Or it's simply a pipe diameter issue/sensor placement in the pipe. Again, that would be solved by reusing the OEM plastic sensor housing coupled into the aftermarket intake....if you want to cut up a stock intake.
Or it's simply a pipe diameter issue/sensor placement in the pipe. Again, that would be solved by reusing the OEM plastic sensor housing coupled into the aftermarket intake....if you want to cut up a stock intake.
2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
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i dont think that would be the case though ive read countless times that it is a common issue but i have a new IAC and as far as the exhaust goes i have a magnaflow exhaust wanted a more quiet stock look but with sound to show for it. im thinking about adjusting the idle screw and see if that helps tho it may not be the case.
QUOTE (Batman722 @ Dec 28, 2013 - 9:22 AM)
>I still think your IAC is dirty or going.
It's a common thing for our cars.
I didn't notice, what exhaust do you have ? Stock ? custom ?
It's a common thing for our cars.
I didn't notice, what exhaust do you have ? Stock ? custom ?
i dont think that would be the case though ive read countless times that it is a common issue but i have a new IAC and as far as the exhaust goes i have a magnaflow exhaust wanted a more quiet stock look but with sound to show for it. im thinking about adjusting the idle screw and see if that helps tho it may not be the case.
an entire magnaflow exhaust or just a muffler ?
What size diameter piping is the exhaust ?
What size diameter piping is the exhaust ?
my st205 swapandour Beams swap
During a cold start, two things need to happen.
1. The idle control valve needs to open pretty much all the way.
2. The car needs more fuel.
If you replaced the idle control valve, check the tubing going to it to make sure it is in no way kinked.
If the problem is with your car not getting enough fuel then either check for vac leaks between the MAF and the engine. Since the car is not MAP based, any little leak could make the ecu inject less fuel. If that checks out, inspect the coolant temp sensor and wiring, since that is what the ecu references to determine that a cold start is happening.
1. The idle control valve needs to open pretty much all the way.
2. The car needs more fuel.
If you replaced the idle control valve, check the tubing going to it to make sure it is in no way kinked.
If the problem is with your car not getting enough fuel then either check for vac leaks between the MAF and the engine. Since the car is not MAP based, any little leak could make the ecu inject less fuel. If that checks out, inspect the coolant temp sensor and wiring, since that is what the ecu references to determine that a cold start is happening.
15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
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its just a magnaflow muffler the piping it self is 2 1/4 inch as for the exhaust its a bout 4 inches
QUOTE (Batman722 @ Dec 28, 2013 - 3:30 PM)
>an entire magnaflow exhaust or just a muffler ?
What size diameter piping is the exhaust ?
What size diameter piping is the exhaust ?
its just a magnaflow muffler the piping it self is 2 1/4 inch as for the exhaust its a bout 4 inches
It seems a little redundant but have you checked for codes again to see if anything else has popped up?
"Employ your time in improving yourself by other men's writings, so that you shall gain easily what others labored hard for." -Socrates. Even Socrates told us touse the search button!2006 Aston Martin V8 Vantage.1998 Celica GT-BEAMSSwapped.2022 4Runner TRD Off Road Prenium.2021 GMC Sierra AT4.
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Yea i did i just checked it and flashes continously so im not sure if one of the sensor were to be faulty tho wouldnt the CEl go ON tho?
QUOTE (richee3 @ Dec 28, 2013 - 6:15 PM)
>It seems a little redundant but have you checked for codes again to see if anything else has popped up?
Yea i did i just checked it and flashes continously so im not sure if one of the sensor were to be faulty tho wouldnt the CEl go ON tho?
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well i inspected the hoses no wear and tear no leaks either as for the maf its not the issue here i replaced the coolant temp sensor a while back but regardless of it being new i still had the same issue ive been told in the past my fuel filter might have been the issue but i really think thats not the problem because once the engine is warm it runs fine.
This post has been edited by 1soljaslim5: Dec 28, 2013 - 7:26 PM
QUOTE (lagos @ Dec 28, 2013 - 4:57 PM)
>During a cold start, two things need to happen.
1. The idle control valve needs to open pretty much all the way.
2. The car needs more fuel.
If you replaced the idle control valve, check the tubing going to it to make sure it is in no way kinked.
If the problem is with your car not getting enough fuel then either check for vac leaks between the MAF and the engine. Since the car is not MAP based, any little leak could make the ecu inject less fuel. If that checks out, inspect the coolant temp sensor and wiring, since that is what the ecu references to determine that a cold start is happening.
1. The idle control valve needs to open pretty much all the way.
2. The car needs more fuel.
If you replaced the idle control valve, check the tubing going to it to make sure it is in no way kinked.
If the problem is with your car not getting enough fuel then either check for vac leaks between the MAF and the engine. Since the car is not MAP based, any little leak could make the ecu inject less fuel. If that checks out, inspect the coolant temp sensor and wiring, since that is what the ecu references to determine that a cold start is happening.
well i inspected the hoses no wear and tear no leaks either as for the maf its not the issue here i replaced the coolant temp sensor a while back but regardless of it being new i still had the same issue ive been told in the past my fuel filter might have been the issue but i really think thats not the problem because once the engine is warm it runs fine.
This post has been edited by 1soljaslim5: Dec 28, 2013 - 7:26 PM
Constant flashing means no codes, but just because the light isn't on doesn't mean everything is good. The BEAMS only illuminates the light for a few codes, so it's not a bad idea to check it any time you think something is up.
You should probably replace your fuel filter anyway but that isn't the issue. I know it's quite a bit of money but I highly suggest buying a wideband to see what your engine is doing. It could be a faulty FPR, but I'd think that would cause problems after the engine is warmed up as well.
You should probably replace your fuel filter anyway but that isn't the issue. I know it's quite a bit of money but I highly suggest buying a wideband to see what your engine is doing. It could be a faulty FPR, but I'd think that would cause problems after the engine is warmed up as well.
"Employ your time in improving yourself by other men's writings, so that you shall gain easily what others labored hard for." -Socrates. Even Socrates told us touse the search button!2006 Aston Martin V8 Vantage.1998 Celica GT-BEAMSSwapped.2022 4Runner TRD Off Road Prenium.2021 GMC Sierra AT4.
Well heres what i have narrowed it down to
ive checked hoses(so no vac leak have taken apart hoses did smoke method no wear n tear so no leak)
Engine Health(as far as compression goes it was in good shape when i bought it and it runs perfectly fine when accelerating and no jerking or bogging)
VVTI soleniod( not the problem I feel it doing its work when i go past 4k from gears 1-4)
Maf sensor(cleaned and even replaced with a better one from a beams)
Fuel wise(since i live here in California ive only seen 91 which is the recommended though i believe it should be 95 ron)
Coolant temp sensor(tried one from a toyota echo 2000 since they are identical all it did was make the temp reading higher)
ECU(as far as it goes all has worked fine i tried a different one and same song and dance)
TPS(tried many from changing to three throttle bodies still not probable issue)
Spark Plugs(changed the iridium ngks which were fine no burns or wet and replaced with double platinum denso)
Idle Air Control Valve (went from cleaning to replacing with a 01 civic one since they are nearly identical its new as well so it works)
Fuel filter(was old and replaced with a new one still not the solution)
Intake air temperature( was suggested i clean it which i did checked its rubber seals no brittle or tears)
Wiring(before i had a bad surge issue but i was due to the iscv not being grounded and wired properly additionally most of the wires werent soldered like they were supposed to as far it goes im still having the wiring looked at maybe i missed something)
with all that said i honestly im thinking its either a gasket or seal from somewhere( ive been told gasket and seals tend to expand with heat when reached at a certain temperature and based on how my car has acted i can somewhat believe it) or its a fuel related issue so next would be to check fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator as well as fuel pump(from my GT, been told its ok to run it though not sure) with all that said im not sure why my car only acts up during cold start, to be smelling rich and immediately stalling after turning on and for it to run normal once engine has reached a warm temperature which leads me to believe its the two options i have just mention but thats just me after all mentioned
any ideas guys??
This post has been edited by 1soljaslim5: Jan 28, 2014 - 8:45 PM
ive checked hoses(so no vac leak have taken apart hoses did smoke method no wear n tear so no leak)
Engine Health(as far as compression goes it was in good shape when i bought it and it runs perfectly fine when accelerating and no jerking or bogging)
VVTI soleniod( not the problem I feel it doing its work when i go past 4k from gears 1-4)
Maf sensor(cleaned and even replaced with a better one from a beams)
Fuel wise(since i live here in California ive only seen 91 which is the recommended though i believe it should be 95 ron)
Coolant temp sensor(tried one from a toyota echo 2000 since they are identical all it did was make the temp reading higher)
ECU(as far as it goes all has worked fine i tried a different one and same song and dance)
TPS(tried many from changing to three throttle bodies still not probable issue)
Spark Plugs(changed the iridium ngks which were fine no burns or wet and replaced with double platinum denso)
Idle Air Control Valve (went from cleaning to replacing with a 01 civic one since they are nearly identical its new as well so it works)
Fuel filter(was old and replaced with a new one still not the solution)
Intake air temperature( was suggested i clean it which i did checked its rubber seals no brittle or tears)
Wiring(before i had a bad surge issue but i was due to the iscv not being grounded and wired properly additionally most of the wires werent soldered like they were supposed to as far it goes im still having the wiring looked at maybe i missed something)
with all that said i honestly im thinking its either a gasket or seal from somewhere( ive been told gasket and seals tend to expand with heat when reached at a certain temperature and based on how my car has acted i can somewhat believe it) or its a fuel related issue so next would be to check fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator as well as fuel pump(from my GT, been told its ok to run it though not sure) with all that said im not sure why my car only acts up during cold start, to be smelling rich and immediately stalling after turning on and for it to run normal once engine has reached a warm temperature which leads me to believe its the two options i have just mention but thats just me after all mentioned
any ideas guys??
This post has been edited by 1soljaslim5: Jan 28, 2014 - 8:45 PM
O2 sensor? My car did that when i forgot to conect it.. Stalled sometimes after start
Learned a lot in 10 years...I hardly log in anymore, last loginToday Sept 6 2019, and I was forced just to clarify a post. LOLIf you PM me and I dont respond, dont fret or cry. Im alive, better post your questions in the thread below, maybe I log back in2grfe Swapped...Why I chose the 2GR, before you ask read here...A great civilization is not conquered from without until it has destroyed itself from within.@llamaraxing in Instagram is the best way to find me. I hardly log here anymore.
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Well ill give it a shot ill buy a wideband O2 and see if it helps
QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Jan 28, 2014 - 9:00 PM)
>O2 sensor? My car did that when i forgot to conect it.. Stalled sometimes after start
Well ill give it a shot ill buy a wideband O2 and see if it helps
Still having the same issues ive been driving the car for about a good 5 months now and still nothing has been solved additionally i went through the trouble of buying the bluetooth OBD2 as well as purchasing the torque pro app as suggested by richochett, put all info on vehicle profile as well as added the additional info to read jdm ecu and it works as far as connecting to bluetooth device and phone but when trying to read the car it gets stuck on (checking model.....) and therefore no data... 
im having the worst of luck. on another note ill be taking my car to Josh aka(mister3) since chico raceworks isnt too far from where i live an have it checked out so hopefully i will finally find a solution to my problem
im having the worst of luck. on another note ill be taking my car to Josh aka(mister3) since chico raceworks isnt too far from where i live an have it checked out so hopefully i will finally find a solution to my problem
Its been a while since i posted about my beams issue and here i am to annoy you guys again sorry by the way but well after going through my checklist changing part after part it narrowed down to either wiring maybe something isnt grounded properly not sure yet and coolant temp sensor after reading through multiple sites on the web of cars with similar issues to my car's symptoms then i found this link http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qi...03092418AAQXyrS
which based on what i read i makes sense and just today i took out my coolant temp sensor last time i got one from a toyota echo 2001 and all it did was give a higher temp reading on the gauge but well anyways attempting to try a different sensor. well i took out the old sensor and noticed this
looks like the edges are corroded so i got a replacement part from autozone and picked up a temp sensor from a tercel 98 so waiting on my engine to cool down and begin the testing again hopefully now ill finally find the solution to my problem so crossing my fingers here.
which based on what i read i makes sense and just today i took out my coolant temp sensor last time i got one from a toyota echo 2001 and all it did was give a higher temp reading on the gauge but well anyways attempting to try a different sensor. well i took out the old sensor and noticed this
looks like the edges are corroded so i got a replacement part from autozone and picked up a temp sensor from a tercel 98 so waiting on my engine to cool down and begin the testing again hopefully now ill finally find the solution to my problem so crossing my fingers here.
So today i had another problem with my car i drove inside a garage and turned of my car and i tried turning it back on but my brake pedal got stiff and once i turn on the engine i wont start all i hear is one click and it seems to be comming near the vvti solenoid and fuel injectors i tried wacking the star no luck checked my fuses all were fine as far as battery and terminals they seem fine and im getting power since im able to turn on the lights and radio as well as move roll my windows.
any ideas what i may be??
any ideas what i may be??
First i want to say thank you to everyone here in 6gc helping me out in troubleshooting my engine and after months of trail and error well i am pleased to announce that the beams is now operating as it should and is no longer having any problems i also hope i didnt annoy you guys too much with constant things ive done and no fix but anyways i am now enjoying it fully 
so to the point of what was the issue well it turns out i got the wrong vvti solenoid an additionally it was not getting enough voltage which would explain why it would run fine right after the engine reached a hot temperature so got the wires fixed and solenoid replaced with the correct one and well now no more giving it gas to keep it alive on cold start better
This post has been edited by 1soljaslim5: Apr 19, 2014 - 11:12 PM
so to the point of what was the issue well it turns out i got the wrong vvti solenoid an additionally it was not getting enough voltage which would explain why it would run fine right after the engine reached a hot temperature so got the wires fixed and solenoid replaced with the correct one and well now no more giving it gas to keep it alive on cold start better
This post has been edited by 1soljaslim5: Apr 19, 2014 - 11:12 PM
Glad to hear it's resolved.
my st205 swapandour Beams swap
woo hoo... so now enjoy that bastard!!
Learned a lot in 10 years...I hardly log in anymore, last loginToday Sept 6 2019, and I was forced just to clarify a post. LOLIf you PM me and I dont respond, dont fret or cry. Im alive, better post your questions in the thread below, maybe I log back in2grfe Swapped...Why I chose the 2GR, before you ask read here...A great civilization is not conquered from without until it has destroyed itself from within.@llamaraxing in Instagram is the best way to find me. I hardly log here anymore.
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O believe me i will after many months of trouble shooting its now running as it should so Now im HAPPY
also quick question what belt can i use for the beams (the one for the alternator)
QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Apr 20, 2014 - 4:23 PM)
>woo hoo... so now enjoy that bastard!!
O believe me i will after many months of trouble shooting its now running as it should so Now im HAPPY
also quick question what belt can i use for the beams (the one for the alternator)
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Do you happen to know where it sits on the 3rd Gen 3SGE? (non-beams)
QUOTE (richee3 @ Dec 12, 2013 - 12:33 AM)
>That's a VSV on the intake elbow. It just lets fumes from the charcoal canister into the intake. You should have three small vacuum lines- one going from the throttle body to the fuel pressure regulator, one from the throttle body to the VSV, then one from the VSV to the charcoal canister.
Do you happen to know where it sits on the 3rd Gen 3SGE? (non-beams)
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