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I'd rather brake the belt drifting on a non-interference engine than a chain any day. You'd have to scrap the chain driven engine and start over.
The cylinder lean situation can be cured through proper tuning. IIRC cylinder 2 and 3 tend to run more lean due to the fact that they sit right under the throttle body. The cracked block issue can happen for several reasons as well. Primarily running too much power over 500 if my memory serves me well, but this can also be caused by poor tune, bad gas, a bad build or too much boost. I'm sure the same scenario can exist in the SR platform as well. Either way...I think the guy from Eric Hsu's comment should go for it, and see how well it does!
QUOTE (playr158 @ Dec 26, 2013 - 1:02 PM) 
>I'm going to disagree with your belt vs chain arguement, as chain is better for higher RPMS, more durable and less maintenance....sooo if you're going to drift a chain is safer than a belt. Chains are less likely to jump teeth, shred parts and are more rugid. Belts are rip/tear/shred and require replacing.
3s is expensive for a reason......cause nobody keeps them around except a select few. not because its the ****; no supply cause no demand.
Not to mention they only came in 2 cars......from the 1990s (or earlier) in the US.
Cast iron is stronger can also be argued as the 3s has a tendancy to crack blocks and run a cylinder lean. A sleeved aluminum block that is properly tuned is just as good if not better....Tell me when you last saw a cast iron block in a supercar?
saying better with no real information is weaksauce
3s is expensive for a reason......cause nobody keeps them around except a select few. not because its the ****; no supply cause no demand.
Not to mention they only came in 2 cars......from the 1990s (or earlier) in the US.
Cast iron is stronger can also be argued as the 3s has a tendancy to crack blocks and run a cylinder lean. A sleeved aluminum block that is properly tuned is just as good if not better....Tell me when you last saw a cast iron block in a supercar?
saying better with no real information is weaksauce
I'd rather brake the belt drifting on a non-interference engine than a chain any day. You'd have to scrap the chain driven engine and start over.
The cylinder lean situation can be cured through proper tuning. IIRC cylinder 2 and 3 tend to run more lean due to the fact that they sit right under the throttle body. The cracked block issue can happen for several reasons as well. Primarily running too much power over 500 if my memory serves me well, but this can also be caused by poor tune, bad gas, a bad build or too much boost. I'm sure the same scenario can exist in the SR platform as well. Either way...I think the guy from Eric Hsu's comment should go for it, and see how well it does!
