Raise from the dead!

I decided that since I can't overclock anything I have in my house I'll see how far I can undervolt things. Google searching told me that undervolting Haswell was a waste of time, they're already super efficient, you won't gain anything. Google results were dead wrong! I managed to shave my i3 4130 from 65W output under prime95 to 40W and drop 20C in temp and drop to a lower fan speed, under benchmark runs it averages around 25W! This is with a -0.190 volt core voltage offset, down from the original 1.135V Then I decided to see if I could undervolt the low power i5 4460S and yes I can, -0.100 volt offset took off 10W but no difference in temps because it's in the test bench with a big ass heat sink.

I'm waiting on an i7 4980HQ from China that's been soldered to a socket 1150 adapter.

RISE FROM THE DEAD AGAIN!

I just finished mounting a 20 year old 200W Koolance water block to a dead 1156 motherboard so I can transfer the mounting to a living 1156 motherboard and cool a Xeon X3470 with the rest of the 20 year old water cooling system.

When I get the build log all done I'll link it here.

Hmm, I would say I should buy a computer after selling the Firebird but I have other things to spend the money on of greater importance.

So I had bought Monster Hunter World for the PS4 after it dropped to $20 new, had been thinking about it for some time prior but after that there wasn't much to lose in case I didn't like it or it was too hard. That was about a month ago now, have over 100 hours already and still haven't finished the main story. Taking my time gathering materials for gear and learning the game so it's not as hard as some say, that and after burning through Kingdom Hearts III I wanted this one to last especially since I don't have PS+ so the whole post end game playing online with others isn't an option currently. I really like it, and the variety each of the 14 weapon types bring to the playing experience is nice. I also like how the character creator is done and doesn't restrain certain features like makeup or hairstyles to one gender or the other, along the same vein I like how they didn't hyper-sexualize the female model. The male and female models are of similar stature, with the only big difference being a small bust and a slightly smaller waist in relation to the hips. So instead of being some overly busty toothpick like other games she looks like she's just as capable as kicking a monster's ass as the males, so that's nice and I applaud Capcom for such. The only thing is some of the female armour sets are "sexy", as male and female armour appearance is different, but some like the Kirin set are "sexy" on both:

So I guess that makes it ok. It's just always boggled me in these games, or shows/movies, where the female characters get stuck with what are more or less metal bikinis. Like seriously, that's supposed to protect her how?

It's always good when you can find a game that sucks you in and is enjoyable to play. I need to go back to Endless Sky but I've been waiting for an update though I don't think that's coming. I essentially beat the game, so I tried a different play through and got stuck with a mission not triggering somewhere and gave up, but now that I have a desktop that'll run it I may revisit. Just feels like lately I have a hard time getting myself to stay with a game.
https://endless-sky.github.io/ also available on steam.

This post has been edited by Bitter: Apr 27, 2019 - 2:22 PM

Hmm, they might. I know Besthesda is still doing updates and bug fixes on Skyrim, of all things... Seriously would think after 8 years that'd be sorted out fully, but nope. I know what you mean though, I was so burned out on playing games for the longest time. The only thing I'd been playing until it was Final Fantasy Opera Omnia on the phone, since it's as close as you'll get to the classic turn by turn Final Fantasy in a modern game. Even then didn't even start that until middle of last year, in fairness it released globally last year in January, and honestly couldn't tell you the last time I had played a game since Skyrim came out and by the time all the DLC came out I was burned out on it. I had Kingdom Hearts II.5 sitting for ages and just played it earlier this year before III came out.

This post has been edited by Box: Apr 27, 2019 - 3:47 PM

I think you're thinking of no man's sky lol. Totally different game.

Hmmm.... Both have sky in title, both have you travel through space. Close enough. Well if it's on PC there might be an user made fix out there.

This post has been edited by Box: Apr 27, 2019 - 11:47 PM

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Prelude and Celica are both 2 doors and made in Japan, close enough.

Exactly, and also FWD. Even more close enough.

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Gah, should know when I'm being facetious by now.

I love me some electronics so I guess I should post here since I got a few nerdy hobbies.

PC office


Tricopters.


Race Quads and Long Range


A "few" of my custom built flashlights.

Oooh, I really like the purple and aqua flashlights.

That is some cool ass **** man.

Water cooler is up and running on the old Xeon processor, results are underwhelming, I may need to tinker with the mounting some as it could be making uneven contact with the IHS. At stock speeds it's about as good as the Hyper 212, at 4Ghz it's doing better than the Hyper 212 by about 20C but it's still pretty warm. I need to dial in some settings to get it completely stable at 4Ghz, I being the dumbass I am, did not document the stable 4Ghz settings I had before.

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Dumbass...

So brother ended up getting The Crew 2. Pretty fun, it's a giant open world type of game across a condensed and somewhat generalized United States. Though most notable landmarks are featured that aren't a licensed property, so all the state parks and monuments and stuff like the Golden Gate bridge etc... Have a variety of vehicles; 16 different types in all though it's all boats, planes, motorcycles, and cars/trucks in some form. Oh and hover crafts. Kind of reminds me of old NFS games when they were good, like Underground and Most Wanted as it's a NFS arcade physics style and the way events and upgrading vehicles is done. You have a rival in each of the four racing styles; street racing, pro racing, off road racing, and freestyle. Then the cars are upgraded in generic part categories(tires, ECU, suspension, brakes, etc..) with numbered parts you get from winning races or finding "loot crates" in free roam. It was on sale, still might be, and he wanted it more for the motorcycles in free roam. It's nice that there's a game out there doing NFS better than EA these days.

Since this is a nerdy thread...

What would you recommend to power a car stereo deck & 2 speakers? I know you'd want an AC to DC inverter but what amperage would be best? Maybe 10amps (or more if a small subwoofer was added)?

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Just get a cheap computer PSU and use the 12V rail off it with the highest amperage if it's not a single rail unit. Otherwise if you get a power brick just match it to the fuse on the back of the head unit, it won't draw more than that fuse. Subwoofer tho? Head unit won't power a sub woofer, not nearly enough power to do that.

Good idea, thanks.

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https://www.parts-express.com/lepai-lp40pa-...panel--310-4000

That might be a better idea, just runs on 120-240AC and puts out roughly the same power that a head unit would. The nice part is no dicking around with weird PSU stuff. They have some other Lepai amps that do blue tooth and have FM and other things built in, 2, 2.1 channel, etc. I guess it depends what you're making, but I assume some kind of garage stereo boom box like device?

Yeah, basically a garage boom box. I already have a head unit & speakers in a "case" I built years ago, just the power supply I used isn't made for that. I'll try & get a few pics up soon.

So I could maybe use one of these power supplies...
https://www.parts-express.com/cat/power-supplies/1474

Or just use computer monitors off your phone, probably the easiest thing to do if you're wanting an 110-120V speaker system in the garage with a sub-woofer.

That or go baller and use studio monitors meant for recording studios.

I think he wants a grab n go kind of box he can also run off the truck power too.

Yes correctly sized one of those could work, get a flush mount power cord socket input like a computer uses. And some other flush mount 12v for cables or a 12v power plug. I'll find parts when I get home.

Hmm I see. I think I recall seeing something like that at some time, was a step stool and boombox in one. I think it even had what looked like a single DIN car stereo in it. That or I'm just imagining such a contraption, but I'm fairly sure I'm not.

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https://www.parts-express.com/iec-ac-power-...holder--090-978 that would let you connect a 3 pin computer power supply cable to the box holding your stuff and let you ground it internally to the high voltage side of the amp just in case it got wet while connected to power, it ought to short to the ground path from the cord and not whatever it's sitting on or whomever is touching it.

Need to do some thinking on the DC connector though, most of those panel mount DC jacks are pretty low amperage.

Hmm, the highest amperage 12V wall wart I can think of would be for synthesizers that used them but most had internal power supplies. Most head units are what 17W RMS per channel at best? So 68W RMS at 110-120V would be only .6 amps so something like a synthesizer wall wart would suffice. The ones for Dave Smith synths are 770mA at 13V.

I've got a few 13.5V wall warts that are several amps, they do exist, and when you get to laptop power supplies those are commonly up to 90W and some are even larger. I've got a big brick for my externally powered Atom D525/Nvidia Ion mini itx system.

Anyway, I wasn't thinking about the head unit as so much as I was thinking about that bluetooth system and it's power needs, assuming he'd want to mount an inverter internally so it could connect to 12V without having to lug around an inverter too or install the power brick internally so the head unit could just be plugged into a wall, either way to keep it all inside the box. Less cords to screw with the better.

Hmm, all the laptop ones I've had are 19V though. Would just have to look through the specs of the head unit for it's total wattage draw, but should still be able to find something that'd work. Do they not make boom boxes anymore? Why are we making things difficult?