I have a 1996 5sfe 2.2 engine. you know if this engine can have valve lash adjustments made? if not, what is the solution? I think I have that tickey tickey going on...
valve lash adjustment - 6G Celicas Forums
You need to use a feeler gauge to check then replace shims as needed.
2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
Like Bitter said, with teh cam lobe pointing up, stick a feeler gauge between the cam and the top of the shim. if its too loose or tight then you need to change the "quarter" shaped shim.
2001 Celica GT-S Turbo1997 Supra TT 6speed1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap1990 Celica All-Trac
Ok guys, good to know. Thanks for posting!
there are minimum and maximum clearance levels for the gap so make sure you get all up to spec!! Good luck! Its a pain in the ass!
1995 GT::::Diffusing the Situationエキサイティングカーレーシングチーム!march2010 COTM:6GCfeature2014:january2015-2016-2018 COTM
I just did mine, I had one exhaust valve at .08mm and one intake at .45mm.
On the 94 5SFE intake clearance is 0.19-0.29mm and the exhaust is 0.29-0.39mm. It should be written on the emissions label under the hood.
Heres a video of how to remove the valve cover, I never did make one for the valve lash like I planned.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DFhHncL8l8
You will need use a feeler gauge set to determine the gap between the cam lobe and the valve shim. Write it all out in the layout of the 16 valves, you will only be able to do half with the engine at TDC and the other half with the crank rotated 360 degrees.
Next you will need to remove the camshafts to be able to measure and replace the valve shims. On any valve that was out of spec you will need to use a pair of calipers to measure the thickness of the shim and swap for a shim that will bring the clearance back into tolerance. In the case of my .08mm exhast valve which was .20-.30mm too small, the valve shim was 2.7mm thick. The .45mm intake clearance was nearly .20 to .30mm too big and had a 2.9mm valve shim. So I simply swapped the two valves shims. The exhaust is now at .29mm and the intake is .20mm. You may have to order some shims from teh interwebs or a local machine shop if you cant just swap existing shims to bring all the valves into clearance.
On the 94 5SFE intake clearance is 0.19-0.29mm and the exhaust is 0.29-0.39mm. It should be written on the emissions label under the hood.
Heres a video of how to remove the valve cover, I never did make one for the valve lash like I planned.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DFhHncL8l8
You will need use a feeler gauge set to determine the gap between the cam lobe and the valve shim. Write it all out in the layout of the 16 valves, you will only be able to do half with the engine at TDC and the other half with the crank rotated 360 degrees.
Next you will need to remove the camshafts to be able to measure and replace the valve shims. On any valve that was out of spec you will need to use a pair of calipers to measure the thickness of the shim and swap for a shim that will bring the clearance back into tolerance. In the case of my .08mm exhast valve which was .20-.30mm too small, the valve shim was 2.7mm thick. The .45mm intake clearance was nearly .20 to .30mm too big and had a 2.9mm valve shim. So I simply swapped the two valves shims. The exhaust is now at .29mm and the intake is .20mm. You may have to order some shims from teh interwebs or a local machine shop if you cant just swap existing shims to bring all the valves into clearance.
Does it feel any better now? Were you getting any symptoms?
2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
It was just making a tickey tickey sound that was annoying. I didn't drive bad or anything. I had the engine rebuilt professionally about 28,000 miles ago and it drives real good. I also had new aftermarket colt cams installed about 10K miles ago. The specs were perfect then.
My mechanic said even still, it's probably either fuel injector or valve lash needs adjusting. He said it's recommended at 30,000.
Bottom end is strong and quite - mech used a stethoscope to listen to both top end and bottom. He said the top is definitely ticking and it doesn't sound normal but not bad either I guess, just really annoying. Always used mobile 1 full synthetic after break in. oil pressure maintains 60 psi warmed up at highway speed and 20 psi at idle.
Just trying to maintain the car as best I can. I want to keep it until it rots anyway.
This post has been edited by 6G96GT: Jan 20, 2014 - 10:23 PM
My mechanic said even still, it's probably either fuel injector or valve lash needs adjusting. He said it's recommended at 30,000.
Bottom end is strong and quite - mech used a stethoscope to listen to both top end and bottom. He said the top is definitely ticking and it doesn't sound normal but not bad either I guess, just really annoying. Always used mobile 1 full synthetic after break in. oil pressure maintains 60 psi warmed up at highway speed and 20 psi at idle.
Just trying to maintain the car as best I can. I want to keep it until it rots anyway.
This post has been edited by 6G96GT: Jan 20, 2014 - 10:23 PM
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On the repair manual, it's said to use the valve adjustment tool to remove the shims without having to remove the camshaft. Wander where you can get that tool. I've only found the ones for the Toyota trucks.
QUOTE (Special_Edy @ Jan 17, 2014 - 12:59 AM) 
>I just did mine, I had one exhaust valve at .08mm and one intake at .45mm.
On the 94 5SFE intake clearance is 0.19-0.29mm and the exhaust is 0.29-0.39mm. It should be written on the emissions label under the hood.
Heres a video of how to remove the valve cover, I never did make one for the valve lash like I planned.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DFhHncL8l8
You will need use a feeler gauge set to determine the gap between the cam lobe and the valve shim. Write it all out in the layout of the 16 valves, you will only be able to do half with the engine at TDC and the other half with the crank rotated 360 degrees.
Next you will need to remove the camshafts to be able to measure and replace the valve shims. On any valve that was out of spec you will need to use a pair of calipers to measure the thickness of the shim and swap for a shim that will bring the clearance back into tolerance. In the case of my .08mm exhast valve which was .20-.30mm too small, the valve shim was 2.7mm thick. The .45mm intake clearance was nearly .20 to .30mm too big and had a 2.9mm valve shim. So I simply swapped the two valves shims. The exhaust is now at .29mm and the intake is .20mm. You may have to order some shims from teh interwebs or a local machine shop if you cant just swap existing shims to bring all the valves into clearance.
On the 94 5SFE intake clearance is 0.19-0.29mm and the exhaust is 0.29-0.39mm. It should be written on the emissions label under the hood.
Heres a video of how to remove the valve cover, I never did make one for the valve lash like I planned.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DFhHncL8l8
You will need use a feeler gauge set to determine the gap between the cam lobe and the valve shim. Write it all out in the layout of the 16 valves, you will only be able to do half with the engine at TDC and the other half with the crank rotated 360 degrees.
Next you will need to remove the camshafts to be able to measure and replace the valve shims. On any valve that was out of spec you will need to use a pair of calipers to measure the thickness of the shim and swap for a shim that will bring the clearance back into tolerance. In the case of my .08mm exhast valve which was .20-.30mm too small, the valve shim was 2.7mm thick. The .45mm intake clearance was nearly .20 to .30mm too big and had a 2.9mm valve shim. So I simply swapped the two valves shims. The exhaust is now at .29mm and the intake is .20mm. You may have to order some shims from teh interwebs or a local machine shop if you cant just swap existing shims to bring all the valves into clearance.
On the repair manual, it's said to use the valve adjustment tool to remove the shims without having to remove the camshaft. Wander where you can get that tool. I've only found the ones for the Toyota trucks.
Silly97 ProgressDirtBag87 ProgressCalifornia Members Check In
>
Don't worry about it. My previous Celica (an '89) made that sound from about 100K until I sold it at 170K. It won't affect engine performance or anything else. Unless you have a mechanic that will work for cheap and do the job right (both of which are unlikely), just leave it alone. It won't harm the engine any. It's just a minor annoyance. Let it be the least of your worries, and enjoy your Celica.
QUOTE (6G96GT @ Jan 20, 2014 - 11:22 PM)
>It was just making a tickey tickey sound that was annoying. I didn't drive bad or anything. I had the engine rebuilt professionally about 28,000 miles ago and it drives real good. I also had new aftermarket colt cams installed about 10K miles ago. The specs were perfect then.
My mechanic said even still, it's probably either fuel injector or valve lash needs adjusting. He said it's recommended at 30,000.
Bottom end is strong and quite - mech used a stethoscope to listen to both top end and bottom. He said the top is definitely ticking and it doesn't sound normal but not bad either I guess, just really annoying. Always used mobile 1 full synthetic after break in. oil pressure maintains 60 psi warmed up at highway speed and 20 psi at idle.
Just trying to maintain the car as best I can. I want to keep it until it rots anyway.
My mechanic said even still, it's probably either fuel injector or valve lash needs adjusting. He said it's recommended at 30,000.
Bottom end is strong and quite - mech used a stethoscope to listen to both top end and bottom. He said the top is definitely ticking and it doesn't sound normal but not bad either I guess, just really annoying. Always used mobile 1 full synthetic after break in. oil pressure maintains 60 psi warmed up at highway speed and 20 psi at idle.
Just trying to maintain the car as best I can. I want to keep it until it rots anyway.
Don't worry about it. My previous Celica (an '89) made that sound from about 100K until I sold it at 170K. It won't affect engine performance or anything else. Unless you have a mechanic that will work for cheap and do the job right (both of which are unlikely), just leave it alone. It won't harm the engine any. It's just a minor annoyance. Let it be the least of your worries, and enjoy your Celica.