No there is no oil cooler in this car and also there is no hole in the upper oil pan for recirculation either.

I am looking on line to see what type of oil cooler to get. there is an oil filter relocation kit available at Trans dapt Part # 1113 but no cooler application.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-1113/?rtype=10

I had it book marked a tutorial on how to install one of these but the website does not populate. Should not be that difficult to figure out. My question is this: Is there enough space to put an oil cooler sandwich adapter in there between the AC and alternaor?

I'd route the oil cooler out to the front of the car if at all possible, that way it's more effective.

agreed but the first challange is to find the right cooler, the sandwich adapter. I have selected a location in front of the radiator

I think Mishimoto makes oil coolers and such.

You dont need an upgraded oil cooler, it will do more harm than good. Your going to decrease the flow of oil. The pressure restriction will probably be offest by the higher viscosity at lower temperatures. But the oil pump is the highest horsepower consuming accessory on the motor. 10W-30 oil actually has a viscosity of several hundred at room temperature, its supposed to reach an operating temperature of 200-300 degrees F in non racing applications, up to 400-500 in a race engine. The thinner it gets the more HP you will have. Since your engine isnt producing enormous amounts of power you will not see any benefits of increased cooling.
If the oil doesnt get hot enough it wont burn off the fuel and water gases slipping past the rings. Your oil will turn to sludge and you will damage the engine.

The stock oil cooler is what the oil filter screws onto. It is connected to the water pump and the two coolant lines running under the exhaust.

This post has been edited by Special_Edy: Aug 11, 2014 - 11:05 PM

5S applications have an oil cooler because it combated sludge and varnish issues, 7A's seem to have those issues as well. A factory style oil cooler isn't going to be detrimental in a street application, it's less restrictive than the oil filter itself! The oil flows pretty much straight through it anyway, it jogs side to side some along the way but it's incredibly non restrictive. The stock cooler is a misnomer, it's a temperature regulator. It helps keep the oil temp relative to coolant temp, same as the automatic transmission heat exchanger in the radiator does. Heat flows from hot to cold always, so if the coolant heats faster than the oil (and it does) then the coolant is heating the oil till they're equal temp, then as the oil temp rises above coolant temp the reverse happens, the oil is regulated to always be at least coolant temp or higher. It helps stop spikes in oil temp from heavy load and brings those temps back down faster than no cooler at all which is good for the engine and the oil life. You can't over cool the oil with a stock style heat exchanger.


Disregard part numbers, they are for the 5S-FE as is that particular oil cooler. I'm not sure what OEM Toyota oil cooler would fit or work on a 7A-FE. Possibly a 5S one would from a Camry, but I have no idea how to tell.

This post has been edited by Bitter: Aug 11, 2014 - 11:25 PM

Thank You all for this valuable information. I am definetely inclined towards installing a factory oil cooler if I can find one here in North America. The second option would be (as suggested by Bitter) to use one from 5SFE engine. Those should be common.

Tort1llaboy's thread in this section shows a picture of his oil cooler on the engine block. He is sending me a closeup picture.

Question 1: Has anyone installed a factory oil cooler in their 7AFE engines? If so would you care to show me some pictures?

Question 2: Has anyone installed one from an 5SFE engine? If so, Can I see how it is done?

Those that have an OEM oil cooler/temperature regulator in their cars, can I see some additional pictures?

Many thanks in advance.

Thank You Special Edy/Bitter/Smaay and Tort1llaboy for providing your valueable input

This post has been edited by msk59: Aug 12, 2014 - 8:09 AM

I dont think the 5S oil cooler will work. first off you need the hard water lines from the water pump, those are on the other side of the block on the 7A.

This is the oil filter mount on the 7A, look at the differences on the 5S





its hard to tell but it looks like you could use that small bolt hole at 1 o'clock to help mount the cooler. but you will also be adding about 2" to the height of your filter, I dont think that will clear the header.
And the hole in the block needs to be the same threads as the 5S. I dont think it is.

If you have your heart set on getting an oil cooler, then I suggest a relocation kit, move the filter to a mount on the frame and have the cooler mounted to the front like I did here in my All-Trac.

Thanks Smaay: I see the differences and the clearence issues. It seems that some of the 7As came with the cooler (Please see Tort1llaboy picture on page 6 of his thread). If I can get that oil cooler then that would solve the problem. I will see what the local dealer has to say.

Relocation Kit is a possibility but wouldn't it put stress on the oil pump? If I understood Special Edy's comment above!

Unfortunately, there aren't any cars in my neighborhood salvage yard that I can venture into and see for myself. LKQ guys are rude at best. The others mostly cater to domestic.

Do what Bitter alluded to. If you have a 5spd and a radiator with the ports to cool the auto transmission utilize that. Its just a straight piece of pipe inside the lower radiator tank. Its significantly cooler in the radiator then the lines from the waterpump which feed the stock oil cooler, but it would be hotter than running a stand alone oil cooler.

If you arent in a hot environment(it gets pretty hot here in Texas) than you might not want to even bother.

Do what Bitter alluded to. If you have a 5spd and a radiator with the ports to cool the auto transmission utilize that. Its just a straight piece of pipe inside the lower radiator tank. Its significantly cooler in the radiator then the lines from the waterpump which feed the stock oil cooler, but it would be hotter than running a stand alone oil cooler.

If you arent in a hot environment(it gets pretty hot here in Texas) than you might not want to even bother.

I do have a 5 speed but I checked the radiator last night and it does not have the ports for oil cooler. But I can find a radiator for auto transmission. Finding an OEM 7afe oil cooler would be a problem.

Also I spoke to our local dealer here and they will be checking to see if the OEM oil cooler is available to US Market.

This post has been edited by msk59: Aug 13, 2014 - 8:37 AM

Maybe there was one on another A series motor

If any A engine had an oil cooler it would have been a 4A-GZE in the US market.

Guys Here is an idea. Mocal and Greddy make a sandwich adapter thermostatically control. That will eliminate both issues and is doable to our 7afe engine.

see link below. I just need the size of the oil filter so i can get a matching adapter. Anyone knows,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNI-MOCAL-OTSP1X-O...e15&vxp=mtr


This post has been edited by msk59: Aug 13, 2014 - 6:57 PM

O.D. 2.69"; Inside Diam/Thread 3/4"-16; Height 3.52"

awesome thanks

Well I got the car fired up. It started right up and we drove it around the block after warmup per Smaay and Special Edy's instructions. Everything ran fine until the throtle cable broke/came out near the gas padel, so limped it home and it got dark so parked it for the night. This morning there was a small pool of oil so I think I may not have tighten the oil filter properly. Dont see any other areas for oil leak but you never know.

So far I am happy, my first attempt to re-ring the car. Thank You to you all for all your help.

Lets hope that nothing else breaks LOL

This post has been edited by msk59: Aug 15, 2014 - 7:47 AM

UPDATE: Had to pull the upper oil pan out again and this time we used a different FIPG. The book says to put a 6mm thick/wide bead and this time it is not leaking. Changed the oil and filter again and the car is now running fine.

Still have to watch the oil consumption.

Thank You all again for all your help and encouragement.

>
dont waste your time just drop a new engine in with lower miles

If I could find one I would have. This work took about 2 weeks with most of the time waiting for parts to arrive.

I am going to do the head gasket on my 5sfe engine. My mechanic said its 8 hours and the engine swap is 12 hours.
I dont want to take out the engine like you did and its cheaper to do the head gasket.
how much was the dealer rebuild kit??
how was it running before the rebuild? how is it running now?
My GT is leaking oil out of the head so thats why I'm replacing it. Other than the clutch slipping its not burning oil or lacking any power.

First I replaced the rings and connecting rod bearing while the block was still in the car. I only took the head out. Gave it to a cylinder head shop with parts for rebuild. I hone the cylinders, and did a good cleaning the engine and intake and put new rings and connecting rods bearings. The crankshaft bearing were fine.

Total cost of everything including purchase/tool rental etc around $900.00

The Ring set from dealer standard were around $130. Gasket set = $122.00. I got all parts at discount price.

My engine was running fine but it was eating a lot of oil. The rings were gone. The oil rings were completely clogged.

This post has been edited by msk59: Aug 17, 2014 - 4:06 PM