Hey guys, I'm having a bit of an issue
I took out my Control Unit thingy when i had a go at wrapping in carbon fibre


All i basically did is undo the 3 screws on the back, wrap and put back together and now next morning while driving my gauges went out while driving, Stopped and replaced the fuse but it blew instantly, I noticed the power windows don't work either however the fuse is not blown.
I took the control unit thing out and unplugged the power window (along with the lock button) and put a new fuse for the gauges and then didnt blow.


After driving for a while it was fine, but driving on the way back home on the highway the gauge went out again

I am assuming the wiring must have been tugged and something came loose when playing with the control unit... because when i check now the fuse name it says
gauges and metres, power door lock system

so nothing to do with the control unit.. maybe a loose ground?
anyone here got any ideas??
Thanks

This post has been edited by RoadRage: Aug 16, 2014 - 11:18 PM

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check what color the power wire is to the power windows on the drivers side door. Follow that wire behind the doorcard and look for black scorch marks on the wire. check where the wires feed back to the cabin as well.

this is the link for the 1995 wiring diagram
https://sites.google.com/site/resource6gc/st202-4--resources

look for everything that attaches to that fuse line, you may of just pressed something on the connecters together so that two wires are touching on the switch

Thanks for the replies!
and the wiring diagram
I'll be checking it out today

Ok... strange

I took the door car off and checked the wiring and it all seems OK...
plug the control unit it in and change the fuse and everything works..

Lol..

sounds like a screw is shorting out a wire

Ok this is turning into a bigger problem...

I got in the car and the gauges were out again.. so I got a phone GPS and drove to nearest store to get some more fuses, which I did. While driving I also figured out the aftermarket cruise control wasn't working so I thought that could be the problem
On the way home the Radio started cutting out every few seconds and my dash/clock/heater lights seemed dim
Started to panic a bit and rushed home and turned the car off

I tried a new fuse and it worked and the gauges and windows are working again but I noticed the windows were going up and down reaaaaaaal slow..
I looked at the headunit and saw that If i turn on something else in the car that uses power, the Headunit cuts out
So if the unit is on and I turn on the lights/high beams.. the headunit cuts out

I've had a play with every wire under the dash to see if tugging/pushing it cuts out the gauges but its still working fine.
Go start the car and now the battery is dead...

Is the battery fried, causing all this, or is there a short somewhere that I cannot locate?

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Yes a bad battery can cause these issues. If fuses keep blowing though, I'd bet on a short, possible water in your fusebox? Disconnect your battery (I assume you have already done that lol). Get a blow dryer (hair dryer, hair blower, whatever you wanna call it) set it to the medium heat and the fan on high, and blow down the fuse box for a good 20 minutes for each fusebox (start at the one under the hood). After you finish under the hood, hook up the battery and see what works. Replace fuses for what doesn't work. If the issues start happening again, your best bet is a short somewhere around the internal fusebox. Trace the wires of every fuse that blows.

I have been trying to help diagnose roadrage since last night,
We have determined that either his Alternator or Battery are at fault. (We hope)
He doesn't have the tools to diagnose which though.

In other words, its ****ed lol

Needs to be taken to an auto elec

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Not sure if you mean like in person, and I'm not sure if you mean you let him use your battery/alternator.
If you haven't tried swapping batteries/alternators id recommend that (if you're not afraid of his car ruining your alternator or battery ) , most alternators bought from somewhere have a warranty (I recently purchased one, washed my engine bay and forgot to cover the alternator ( lol I know I'm dumb) and realized it after my pressure washer shot straight at it. Ruined the whole thing, but carquest replaced it for free after I got it tested at o'Reilly for free.

ANYWAY if you can do that, you'll know which it is. My guess is the alternator if it's either of the two

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Over the internet lol, we live in different states or I'd be at his house swapping stuff over haha

My money was also the alternator, but problem is getting it checked, since in australia nothing is ever free or cheap lol

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oh haha, well you could just measure the voltage you're getting from the alternator. If its too high at higher RPMs you'd need to get that replaced. You could just try testing it without driving above 3K. you could look on craigslist/post an ad asking for a free alternator test on a test bench. Or gumtree or something. Idk what gumtree is, but i assume its like craigslist the way I've seen people throw the name around on here.

Good luck, let me know how things turn out.

I had the battery jump started and both alternator and battery ran at about 14 volts, but once the fuse blew it dropped to 10v and stayed there,

putting a new fuse in then basically just sucks the power out of the car till it dies or fuse blows again

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This sounds like a bad alternator. changing voltages (going from 14 to 10) would cause the current to change as well (but the current should be lower right..? not go higher and blow a fuse)
If you can get a good 12.5V (ish) on your battery with the car off, get a new alternator or have it tested then get a new alternator if its bad. Most places SHOULD waive the alternator testing fee when purchasing a new alternator... If they don't they are cheap as hell.... And mention it after having it tested. If the alternator is good, pay the fee i suppose but now you have a bigger problem, you've got to go hunting for shorts and all kinds of different possibilities....

Good luck man!

Edit: Going from 14 to 10v sounds like the typical bad alternator not being able to keep up with the normal load (aka bad alternator ) BUT the fuses blowing... sounds like a short, but the problems could be tied together.

This post has been edited by Noahwhite2014: Aug 20, 2014 - 10:41 PM

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Electrical problems are always complicated...
If the alternator has for whatever reason put a 'charge' into the system, it could blow a fuse... A dying battery also causes voltage (and thus amperage) fluctuations which can lead to a blown fuse...
The person that RoadRage had work on his car (Not his choice, so not his fault) did a very bad test (wrapping a fuse in metal wire), which caused the fuse to actually explode, and this seems to have caused more damage (His headlights now do not work).


The car is at an Auto-Electrician right now, so all hoping it isn't too bad a of a problem...

Why would the person wrap a fuse with electrical wire when fuses are blowing?! Well I hope all is well and it's something that's fixable for a reasonable price. Let me know how this turns out, good luck!

Which fuses are blowing?

Also, the purpose of a fuse is to protect more expensive components NEVER jump past a fuse with some other conductor!

OK, here is the story, the gauges fuse kept blowing and I originally thought the drivers side control unit was the culprit because I was fiddling with it a day before this issue started and my windows stopped working too,
After tearing my interior apart and finding nothing I was left pretty clueless,
Then the battery died

A friend of my mums who seemed pretty car savvy offered to come over to jump the battery and have a look at whats wrong,
He then started wrapping the fuse, WHICH I DID NOT AGREE TO, and to no surprise the fuse basically exploded and then a bunch of other things stopped working
such as dome lights and headlights

I told him to not touch the car anymore and just help me take it to an auto elec

THE CONCLUSION

I dropped the car off 10 min before closing time and it was left there over night,
The next day I got a call about 2pm saying its ready and went to pick it up

THE CULPRIT : The aftermarket antenna
When I bought the car, before the dealer gave it to me I asked for the antenna to be fixed because it was broken and dealer said OK
CLEARLY, he found the dodgiest possible person to do it because apparent from what the auto elec said the wiring was horribly done and completely bypassed everything and it caused multiple shorts inside the car and the whole wiring along the car for the antenna was FRIED



He said I'm lucky the car didn't catch on fire
The auto elec let me keep the wire he took out and this is how the whole ~2m of wire he gave me looks like this

It's been all stripped out of old antenna wires and re-wired and this time he even added FUSES!
No wonder my battery was draining

Learning lesson:
Please be careful with your wiring and make sure it's all done properly you don't end up like me and pay almost $500 to get it fixed

This post has been edited by RoadRage: Aug 22, 2014 - 1:52 AM

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Well glad you're all good now at least, and safe!

When I bought my celica, it had wires running next to sharp metal edges, under fenders, etc... It even had wires of a large gauge running all the way under the carpet into the hatch and was dangling around the spare tire area. It was for an amp and sub, except the previous owner left the stripped wires near a grounding point, under a carpet.... What a lazy way to uninstall something.

Thank god I found it the day after I bought the car when I was cleaning it. Though I've still got a drain in the dome light circuit... Ugh. Can't afford to pay an auto electrician to figure out where it is, so I'm doing without a dome light till I can find it.