The engine when started cold in summer ticks over at 800rpm
when warm its at 1500rpm and wont go down to normal tick over.
need a fix please
when warm its at 1500rpm and wont go down to normal tick over.
need a fix please
7AFE FAST IDLE SPEED - 6G Celicas Forums
well what did you do to troubleshoot it
have you looked for vacuum leaks?
have you looked for vacuum leaks?
2001 Celica GT-S Turbo1997 Supra TT 6speed1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap1990 Celica All-Trac
>
I would suspect a vacuum leak but it doesnt make sense that when it warms up that it changes the idle so it might not be a vacuum leak. however its a possibility. If you dont know how to check for vacuum leaks then i suggest looking at this site on how to do so.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-a...kforVacuumLeaks
Heres where to start looking in general:
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-a...e-idle-problems
Please be careful about looking for vacuum leaks as stated in the video. If you find out what the issue was then let us know please! and if you found any of this information helpful then it would be good to hear.
Also out of curiosity do you have any check engine lights on?
QUOTE (KEV6699-123 @ Aug 26, 2014 - 1:51 PM) 
>The engine when started cold in summer ticks over at 800rpm
when warm its at 1500rpm and wont go down to normal tick over.
need a fix please
when warm its at 1500rpm and wont go down to normal tick over.
need a fix please
I would suspect a vacuum leak but it doesnt make sense that when it warms up that it changes the idle so it might not be a vacuum leak. however its a possibility. If you dont know how to check for vacuum leaks then i suggest looking at this site on how to do so.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-a...kforVacuumLeaks
Heres where to start looking in general:
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-a...e-idle-problems
Please be careful about looking for vacuum leaks as stated in the video. If you find out what the issue was then let us know please! and if you found any of this information helpful then it would be good to hear.
Also out of curiosity do you have any check engine lights on?
>
check your throttle body cable, make sure its not too tight. (doubt its this)
check your idle adjust screw and make sure its not holding the throttle plate open. (probably not this either...)
check your idle air control valve make sure its not stuck open/stuck closed (i highly doubt its this)
check your spark plugs, make sure they're gapped right (might be this, usually if its too big it shakes a lot and has a low rpm so maybe its too small)
check for vacuum leaks (most likely this) you can do a pretty easy test with smoke since its a bit safer than throttle body cleaner/wd40/anything else flammable! lol
Good luck
QUOTE (KEV6699-123 @ Aug 26, 2014 - 2:51 PM)
>The engine when started cold in summer ticks over at 800rpm
when warm its at 1500rpm and wont go down to normal tick over.
need a fix please
when warm its at 1500rpm and wont go down to normal tick over.
need a fix please
check your throttle body cable, make sure its not too tight. (doubt its this)
check your idle adjust screw and make sure its not holding the throttle plate open. (probably not this either...)
check your idle air control valve make sure its not stuck open/stuck closed (i highly doubt its this)
check your spark plugs, make sure they're gapped right (might be this, usually if its too big it shakes a lot and has a low rpm so maybe its too small)
check for vacuum leaks (most likely this) you can do a pretty easy test with smoke since its a bit safer than throttle body cleaner/wd40/anything else flammable! lol
Good luck
I've begun to wonder if the accelerator cable not being clipped in place can cause this. like its laying across the exhaust heat shield and burning up the cable jacket keeping it from releasing all the way.
it's just I see lots of people with this problem including mine.
it's just I see lots of people with this problem including mine.
Bust a Deal; Face the Wheel.
>
It's possible, I always make it a point to put everything back the way it was before the problem haha do a lot of people leave their accelerator cable unclipped??
But it'd make sense. If the jacket fused to the cable in multiple spots.
QUOTE (VavAlephVav @ Sep 6, 2014 - 10:19 PM)
>I've begun to wonder if the accelerator cable not being clipped in place can cause this. like its laying across the exhaust heat shield and burning up the cable jacket keeping it from releasing all the way.
it's just I see lots of people with this problem including mine.
it's just I see lots of people with this problem including mine.
It's possible, I always make it a point to put everything back the way it was before the problem haha do a lot of people leave their accelerator cable unclipped??
But it'd make sense. If the jacket fused to the cable in multiple spots.
well, because the original Japanese ones are RHD the cable comes into the throttle body from the right side of the firewall. but the US ones the cable comes through on the left side of the firewall and makes a full 270 degree loop around back into the throttle body.
it is supposed to be clipped in two or three places to secure it as it loops. mine never had these clips on when I got it and the throttle cable is literally laying on the exhaust manifold heat shield.
mine will idle up around 1500 and will come back down to 800 if I goose the throttle real quick, but I have to do it each time I come to a stop and want it to idle right.
To have the computer reset the idle you just pull the ECU and EFI fuses for a min, or remove the battery cable. then jump the pins E1 to Te1 in the diagnosis box and let it idle for a min then turn it off.
your throttle position sensor must also be calibrated properly.
other than that I wonder if you take the throttle cable loose and straighten it out enough to squirt some graphite or Teflon lube down it.
but I don't think you can lube it properly without taking it loose from the pedal and taking the cable all the way out of the cable housing.
I haven't tried that yet, im waiting to do the repairs on my motor in the next couple of weeks.
it is supposed to be clipped in two or three places to secure it as it loops. mine never had these clips on when I got it and the throttle cable is literally laying on the exhaust manifold heat shield.
mine will idle up around 1500 and will come back down to 800 if I goose the throttle real quick, but I have to do it each time I come to a stop and want it to idle right.
To have the computer reset the idle you just pull the ECU and EFI fuses for a min, or remove the battery cable. then jump the pins E1 to Te1 in the diagnosis box and let it idle for a min then turn it off.
your throttle position sensor must also be calibrated properly.
other than that I wonder if you take the throttle cable loose and straighten it out enough to squirt some graphite or Teflon lube down it.
but I don't think you can lube it properly without taking it loose from the pedal and taking the cable all the way out of the cable housing.
I haven't tried that yet, im waiting to do the repairs on my motor in the next couple of weeks.
Bust a Deal; Face the Wheel.
>
Keep us updated on that. I'd like to see if it is the cable near the exhaust
QUOTE (VavAlephVav @ Sep 7, 2014 - 11:23 AM)
>well, because the original Japanese ones are RHD the cable comes into the throttle body from the right side of the firewall. but the US ones the cable comes through on the left side of the firewall and makes a full 270 degree loop around back into the throttle body.
it is supposed to be clipped in two or three places to secure it as it loops. mine never had these clips on when I got it and the throttle cable is literally laying on the exhaust manifold heat shield.
mine will idle up around 1500 and will come back down to 800 if I goose the throttle real quick, but I have to do it each time I come to a stop and want it to idle right.
To have the computer reset the idle you just pull the ECU and EFI fuses for a min, or remove the battery cable. then jump the pins E1 to Te1 in the diagnosis box and let it idle for a min then turn it off.
your throttle position sensor must also be calibrated properly.
other than that I wonder if you take the throttle cable loose and straighten it out enough to squirt some graphite or Teflon lube down it.
but I don't think you can lube it properly without taking it loose from the pedal and taking the cable all the way out of the cable housing.
I haven't tried that yet, im waiting to do the repairs on my motor in the next couple of weeks.
it is supposed to be clipped in two or three places to secure it as it loops. mine never had these clips on when I got it and the throttle cable is literally laying on the exhaust manifold heat shield.
mine will idle up around 1500 and will come back down to 800 if I goose the throttle real quick, but I have to do it each time I come to a stop and want it to idle right.
To have the computer reset the idle you just pull the ECU and EFI fuses for a min, or remove the battery cable. then jump the pins E1 to Te1 in the diagnosis box and let it idle for a min then turn it off.
your throttle position sensor must also be calibrated properly.
other than that I wonder if you take the throttle cable loose and straighten it out enough to squirt some graphite or Teflon lube down it.
but I don't think you can lube it properly without taking it loose from the pedal and taking the cable all the way out of the cable housing.
I haven't tried that yet, im waiting to do the repairs on my motor in the next couple of weeks.
Keep us updated on that. I'd like to see if it is the cable near the exhaust
after replacing the motor and robbing some clips from a Camry I can say that the accelerator cable not being clipped in 3 places was 99% of my problem. now mine idles like it should.
Bust a Deal; Face the Wheel.