It's not a Celi, but i thought it might be of interest to some of you folks because we share the same engine
Here is a pic of the almost finished build:



I don't know if I'm welcome here without a Celi, so if you guys wanna see more just let me know, I have tons of pictures including some log files from my road-tune for the tech-gurus of you

what year is this car??

It's a 93 Carina (ST191). In JP it was called Caldina or Corona. I don't think ST191's ever made it to the US.
It has a gen2 3S-GE like the 2 liter T20. Well now it's a 3S-GE-T with a Turbo and manifold from a ST185.
Low boost application because of the 10:1 pistons from the gen2 3S-GE... for now!

All started with a bone stock Carina GTi (with the 3S-GE gen2 engine) which I bought for about 1000 USD as a winter-bitch. Some time later my Carina got boring and to be honest the 3S-GE is really weak under 5000 rpm. So it literally begged to get turbo'd . Because the car already had seen lots of kilometers and isn't a beauty anymore, it had to be a budget build.
I bought a broken CT26 with an OEM manifold and a 3" Downpipe of ebay and rebuilt it. I think it's of an ST185 Carlos Sainz, because it wasn't a normal CT26 Compressor Wheel. It was larger and with unusually strange long fins. Well the wheel was slightly damaged and had to be replaced. But of course I couldn't source this unusual wheel but I found out that it has the same dimension like the wheel from the Mk3 CT26. The Mk3 comp. wheel is much more common and I found a new one also on ebay. Now I have a hybrid CT26 but I don't know yet where it's limit is, but I'm sure It can handle more power that the stock Celi CT26 can because of the larger Compressor.

The damaged CT26 (Carlos Sainz ?) comp. wheel






And here is the Mk3 comp. wheel with much thinner fins, somehow scary, but I newer planed to go crazy on boost, so it should be ok.




For the work in the engine bay I have to say it was a real PITA because like with the ST202 there isn't much room left
I bought a fmic and lots of stainless tubes and bends. I tig welded all the intercooler piping and managed to keep the air-con in, even though it's a winter car, you never know what the future will bring

Turbo oil return went in where the stupid oil level sensor sits... it hasn't ever worked properly anyway


I had to move the fusebox to the right to make room for the piping


Oil filter also had to be moved due to the 3" downpipe would have been to close


middle sized fmic... just perfect for my hp goals


New connecting pipe with flex tube in between the downpipe and the stock exhaust system. Maybe in the future I will address the cat back, but all has to remain stealthy


CT26 with new bearings


freshly balanced core


All the intercooler pipes - now it all sits nice in place, but the fabrication took me some time. That there isn't much room in the engine bay isn't helping there Damnit I was swearing like sailor in my garage some times


















EGT probe should come handy for the tune


greddy emanage ultimate loom gets wired in




I have installed an Innovate MTX-L wideband but I don't have pics of that.
The emanage took some time to config right, but after a couple of hours it ran very satisfying.

For the power I don't have figures yet, but with the 7 PSI boost and a conservative timing retard at boost I would say it has about 220 hp at this time. I don't want to blow it up, so max. boost will be 8 or 9 PSI with the stock 10:1 pistons. In summer I plan on swapping in 3S-GTE pistons. then I plan on running with 15 PSI, that should give me maybe 270-300 hp. I don't plan on more, because I believe above the 300 hp mark I would run into troubles with the gearbox, axles ect.
Btw: I already have clutch slip of course and my stock injectors (315cc) get maxed out that all will get addressed in summer too.
I now have a 1JZ-GTE map sensor installed. The OEM 3S-GE sensor outputted 5V at 7 PSI . The 1JZ sensor now is good for up to 18 PSI.
I spent about 2000 USD in parts so far. Lot of it was second hand though.
Interesting fact: The most expensive part was... not the turbo... not the emanage... but the tubing for the intercooler with its silicone bends and claps. Damn that **** can get expensive But with 2000 USD I'm still pretty cheap for what I have now. And the turbo flutter is so amazing even on this low boost application. Boy I could hear it all day long

Awesome stuff definitely something to admire in the are of forced induction. In which I know nothing of.

Very nice build!

Thats an interesting looking Gen 2 3S-GE, as it has the ACIS cover of a gen 2 & (a smoother) first intake plenum like a gen 3.

Yes, it's a bit different compared to the Celi's gen2, but it was factory like that on the st191's
Maybe there are the extra 2 hp's coming from. The Carina GTi is stated with 158hp and the Celi and MR2 with 156hp.

This post has been edited by 7afe_carina: Jan 29, 2015 - 3:47 AM

Some little news
I put a small oled screen into the speedo unit. The screen is controlled by an Arduino. Right now its programmed to display AFR and EGT, but there are almost endless possibilities to display. Oil pressure and temp sure will follow. Boost I already have displayed on my boost controller.

wow thats nice... difficult to program the arduino?

No I wouldn't say its difficult, but if you never done something like it before, you need some practice time. And there are a ton of things a newbie can do wrong without it being obviously wrong (hardware and software)
For example: mine isn't working 100% great at this time because it tends to freeze. I haven't found out the problem yet, but it must be an interference problem with either the cars power source or the afr gauge.

Here is a pic of it running:

News:
Cylinder bores rehoned / New 3S-GTE 8.7:1 comp. ratio pistons and rings / New main and rod bearings / All valves cleaned and grinded in / New valve sealings (old ones were hard as rock).
Now it's calling for more boost

















This post has been edited by 7afe_carina: Nov 18, 2015 - 8:17 AM

How do you plan on filling up the transmission fluid with the oil filter in the way?

Not a problem at all. I still can access the bolt with a ring spanner... and in the worst case I just undo the two bolts holding the bracket to the transmission and move the filter unit aside

Car is still going strong
But I had to replace the engine because the pistons or rather the piston rings I bought new of ebay somehow destroyed the whole engine
Just 100 km after I dropped them in, it began to make ticking noises. I was still in the running-in stage, so I didn't even stress it. I checked the oil and there was a lot of metal abrasion in it. So I took the whole engine apart again: Everything was f**king wasted, the camshafts where already scored on the bearings as well as the cylinders. Hell even the damn CT26 Turbo had scored bearings and shaft









I checked everything for a fault done by me during the build-up, but I could not find a single mistake, so it had to be the freaking piston/ring kit that was BS. I definitely never buy such a cheap set again.
Anyway, I bought a used 3S-GE gen3 in good condition and thought I could at least upgrade from gen2 to gen3 through this. But I had to realize that the 3S-GTE gen2 manifold does not fit the 3S-GE gen3 head like it does with the 3S-GE gen2... damnit. So I bought another 3S-GE gen2 head and put this one on top of the 3S-GE gen3 block, where I put used OEM Toyota 3S-GTE pistons in with a compression ratio of 8.8:1. It fits with only small modifications. Now the oil filter is in a better location and I don't need the relocation kit anymore. The gen3 block does also have better options for the turbo oil return, with that I could build a much more sophisticated and OEM looking return. I also bought a CT26 from a MK3 supra and rebuilt it. The supra CT26 has a larger compressor than the ones the standard 3S-GTE came with. The twin scroll CT26 turbine housing fits the supra CHRA, so no problems with that.













I put in 460cc injectors from a RX-7 and a flywheel and pressure plate of a Celica GT4 combined with a hybrid clutch disc from ACT because the S54 gearbox has a shaft with 20 splines unlike the 3G-GTE's with 21 splines.







I powder coated the intercooler pipes



The engine mounts had seen better days, so new ones came in.







To be safe, a walbro fuel pump replaced the over 20 year old pump







After that, the car already run very nice, but I could not raise the boost over 1 bar. I thought that it must be the exhaust system that generates a big back pressure, because it was never intended to support this amount of power.
I baked together a nice dual muffler system.









The result is a happy turbo which a lot of breathing capability
Now it runs with 1.2 bar of boost... and it is fast

That's some serious dedication to your build to start again after your new piston rings failed. Everything looks fantastic! We need more pictures and videos of this car in action!

What evil exhaust. Interesting.

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I think I can do that sometime later

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I crossed the point of no return after the second stage... there was just too much sweat, time and money involved to just quit this project.

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Fortunately the exhaust does not attract a lot of attention concerning the noise. It is not loud at all, and I am very happy with that

I optimized the ignition and made a small video
I am very happy with the performance now. 100 - 200 kph takes around 12 sec. that's faster than a E46 M3 That was without shifting. I reckon the time would be even a bit better if I would shift into 5th gear at 6000 rpm, because it gets a bit sluggish at the last 1000 rpms and the most torque is between 4000 - 6000.
It still runs a bit to rich from 6000 rpm on till redline. I need to address this later. But concerning the power I am done. It has about 300 to 320 horses according to my power meter on a safe tune. More is not possible anyway with that CT26, the boost starts to drop from 5500 rpm onwards.

https://youtu.be/v14XiKpr8r4

Last steps completed on this build
I bought a billet compressor wheel for the CT26. The goal was to have more air beyond 5500 rpm because that is the point where with the stock CT26 pressure started dropping.







I built it on a spare CT26 so that I could send it in for balancing and still was able to drive the car...it's actually my daily
The result is very satisfying: It does exactly what I hoped it would. I now have still 1 bar of boost up to 7000 rpm. from there it starts losing pressure, but there are anyway only 300 rpm left till redline.
Calculated power is now at 350 hp and 317 ft/lb of torque (at the crank)... Compressor efficiency must also have gone up, because percentage wise I gained a bit more power compared to the increased boost pressure.
I'm done searching for more power
I mostly did this step out of curiosity about the billet comp. wheels... I just wanted to know if/where/how it makes more power.