Just looked up the datasheet for the 15" in my cabinet and it has a range of like 20-2,000 hertz with a 99 db sensitivity, so that'd explain things. That and how it's constructed probably differs a little as well. I was thinking the ranges might've been different but why it didn't register at first I don't know, I blame no sleep over the last few days.

Well great mystery solved. I have a nice older 12" DVC Rockford Punch I need to get around to using, though it's a lot more than what I'd ever need as I think it was 500W a coil at 4 ohms.

500w or RMS? Wattage is nothing the RMS is what matters. 500 watt could be as low as 150 RMS. I know older Rockford stuff is all low Rms rating. Even the new Rockford stuff isn't even that high I think a p3 sub is under 800 RMS and its the best they offer besides power series ( way over priced and poorly perform )

Even RMS can be sketchy unless it's CEA certified.

Just dug it back out of the music room and it is 500W RMS and 1,000W peak, and it's a USA made P3. So I guess that'd be 250W RMS 500W peak per coil. Either way it's way more than I'd ever use, which is why I've never gotten around to using it.

Oh, that's also at 4 ohms. So it'd be a little more running at 2 ohms I suppose.

I'm confused with your last statement. Most sub's are set X per sub not per coil and if your sub is rated to handle 300 RMS that's what its rated for. Doesn't matter if you run it at 2 ohms or 4 ohms it still requires same amount of rms. 4 ohms sounds better but also harder to push. Home system guys always go 8 ohms. My sub for an example is 1000 RMS. So I can run it 1/2/4 ohm and do 1k RMS but 4 ohms would sound the best but idk any amp that can push 1k RMS at 4 ohms that's not over 500$+ or run it at 2 ohms @ 1k. Never heard of a sub being rated RMS on different ohms.

It's amp that changed with RMS not sub. My alpine can do 300 RMS @ 4 and 500 RMS @2 its not 1 ohm stable. My Rockford 1000.1d can do 500@4 and 1k@2 ohms its not 1 ohm stable as well.

Also dvc and SVC are basically the same. Only difference is SVC can't be changed ohm load. If its SVC @2 ohms you can't make it 4 or 1 ohm. Dvc you have more wiring options. Ive seen people run power right to coil but I have no idea why someone would do that when the dvc was meant to be for wiring options

PA cabinets can vary wattage with ohms, which I know it's two completely different things but my background in audio started with PA systems. Generally you'll have a nominal impedance usually at 8 ohms, then have the option of 16 ohms but at less power.

When I've used a 2-channel amp with a DVC to keep it at 4 ohms I'll do half the wattage per coil as to not exceed the total rating. So technically it's not divided per coil in the subwoofer itself, but you get the idea.

Ohhh okay I see

The 6x9's in the back of my Mazda keep up with fast bass just fine and sound so good and natural down to around 40hz then start dropping off a little and are off totally around 15hz. Car sounds great, very natural not overly bass'd or anything. They're the tangband 6x9's from parts express. PE's got some GREAT speakers at great prices that do fantastic in cars even if they're not marketed for cars. Speaker is speaker, they don't care car or home as long as they're protected from direct sun and water.

Home audio is mostly rated at 8 ohms tho. So no amp your car CD player if its after market runs 11-24 RMS roughly. Using an 8 ohm speaker your hardly producing enough power to power them correctly I'd assume but if you say they sound good than there goes that lol. I use jl or nvx or alpine type R mostly. They all are good but require an amp to push them correctly. Most higher end audio isn't OEM or low RMS friendly. Alpine type r take 100+ RMS to function correctly or as they are designed too. Infinity and jbl are great low wattage replacements

Hmm so how am I thumping away a pair of 6x9 8ohm Tang Band in the rear deck on my Mazda off a JL 300/2? Such blanket statements.
http://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w69...woofer--264-837 Looky, 8 ohms. Thump thump thump no problem, just wire to a 4 ohm load. Rear fill, no care about stereo behind your head. (running them IB in the rear deck, they're seriously great speakers for the money and sound amazing after about 3-4 hours of play time once they soften up a little)

http://www.parts-express.com/cat/subwoofer...%28%29%2Frecord[endeca%3Amatches%28.%2C%22P_PortalID%22%2C%221%22%29+and+endeca%3Amatches%28.%2C%22P_Searchable%22%2C%221%22%29]&PortalID=1 4 ohms

http://www.parts-express.com/cat/subwoofer...%28%29%2Frecord[endeca%3Amatches%28.%2C%22P_PortalID%22%2C%221%22%29+and+endeca%3Amatches%28.%2C%22P_Searchable%22%2C%221%22%29]&PortalID=1 2+2 DVC

http://www.parts-express.com/cat/subwoofer...%28%29%2Frecord[endeca%3Amatches%28.%2C%22P_PortalID%22%2C%221%22%29+and+endeca%3Amatches%28.%2C%22P_Searchable%22%2C%221%22%29]&PortalID=1 1+1 DVC (crazy expensive and huge though, pay to play...literally)


Just about any of those speakers would be suited for use in a car, some more than others due to resonant freq and sealed or ported volume requirements. Speakers are speakers, as long as you can drive them and house them correctly you can play them.

This post has been edited by Bitter: May 5, 2015 - 9:42 PM

On your first post you never stated you had an amp running them. I was assuming you had them off a stock radio or a after market head unit. This is why I stated the RMS head units supply at 4 ohms. Anything will thump given the power to them. I was thinking how the hell are you thumping off 8 ohm speakers on a stock/after market head unit alone...

At first I was like how are you getting any thump from non amped. Thsys why I listed good non amped speaker replacements. Pioneer is so so same with Kenwood. Infinity/jbl are my personal favorite non amped drivers. Basically non amped them speakers.wouldn't work correctly. Its like trying to drive a dump truck on a 50 HP engine. Can it do it yes but effectly no.

We're talking about subs, why on earth would anyone be talking about driving speakers with a head unit in a discussion about subs? That's like talking about fishing blue gill on a charter boat in the atlantic.

Bro you said 6x9... 6x9 isn't a real sub. Or at least I wouldn't count it as a sub. Its a 6x9 lol.. I guess I was confused I just now clicked your link I thought you where talking about a 2/3 way 6x9 not a 6x9 sub as a driver... That's why I said about RMS out put and all that. Also you said it cuts out at 15hz the specs say 35 is low as it goes.

This post has been edited by Jmk91: May 5, 2015 - 11:21 PM

35hz is as low as it goes on paper in sealed or ported box, but IB runs much lower on less power. The pair easily rattles the whole back of the car if I want it to, even with only 7mm xmax. Srsly, you're a little out of your depth on this, just stick to kickers and boss amps.



Does that look like a normal 6x9? It's got a bigger magnet and voice coil than some 8" and 10" subs do. It'll handle 150W RMS all day every day without breaking a sweat. I

This post has been edited by Bitter: May 5, 2015 - 11:32 PM

Lol are you kidding me? I've been messing with car audio for years and years I've done at least 20 installs. I was confused on what you said I didn't click your link and had zero idea why you even brought up 6x9s.. I thought you where talking about a normal 6x9 speakee that wasnt a subwoofer driver.I've never heard of anyone even using 6x9 sub's in a car. So clearly I misread that doesn't mean I don't know what I'm talking about.