So lately my 5S has been steadily leaking oil. I've located the majority of the leak coming from the lower corner of the timing case where there is a seal hanging there. The other bit I believe is coming from the oil pan. So i'm gonna start with replacing the t-belt and water pump and cam and crank seals. But I have never done a t-belt replacement before so I need some help. Is there a how-to post for this somewhere? Or can anyone give me some helpful advice and what tools to use and parts to replace while doing this and what all needs to be removed?? Thanks!

make sure that the crank and cam gears line up right with the timing. if you look closely at the teethes on the crank and cams, youll find and arrow. match these arrows with a small indented line on the top of the crank and cam teethes. if you dont line these up right your timing will be off. theres probably hundreds of DIY explanations you can search up on google. its not too hard. just make sure the timing is dead on, and dont break/rip/tear your new seals when putting them on. you can rub some Vaseline on them so they can slip in easier.

1 cam sprocket on these. 5sfe

I used this guide when I did mine and it was really helpful. Just make sure to mark everything before you take the belt off, unlike me lol. If you don't you'll have to line up the tiny notch on the crank and the notch in the hole on the cam sprocket. Although I did mine while the engine was out of the car so it was quite a bit easier.

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=57712

if you are going to put money in the car and keep it, i suggest pulling the entire engine out and also doing the front and rear main seals. it will make your job so much easier

For a guy who's never done a timing belt replacement before, yanking the engine out might be a huge undertaking. Although I agree that you can replace all kinds of good stuff with the engine out. Now your 100 dollar job turned into a 1000 dollar job (give or take)

I agree, pulling the engine would be best. You would be surprised, pulling an engine is not all that difficult in these cars. Considering the OP may have a pan leaking and FMS leak, it would be easier to take the engine out and work on it. If the FMS is going, I wouldn't trust the rear to last. Only issue, some people don't have access to a cherry picker(plus engine stand) and/or don't want to shell out money for something they're going to use once or twice.

I suppose they could rent one, but I think by the time rental costs are figured in you might as well buy one. Or buy used and sell afterwards?
But yeah, if your replacing fms/rms seals, its easier with engine removed.