Thanks Box.
So it was time to finally get this thing on air. Needless to say it was far from a bolt in ordeal, but gladly I'm finished with the front. A bit of issues that I ran into was clearance clearance and well clearance.. Tire to fender clearance, wheel to shock-body clearance, and air spring to strut tower clearance. What a pain.. So originally I planed on running a double bellow (D.B) air spring in the front of the car and a sleeve set up in the rear. This is ideal for a few different reasons (Not going to get into great detail at this moment). Well with the D.B front air spring installed it was a little to close for comfort to the inside of the strut tower. So I decided to crimp up a sleeve for the front the same ones I plain to use for the rear. The sleeve is more narrow but also sits lower on the damper body. Free'd up a lot of room in the strut tower, but then notice the wheel to bag clearance was too close.. As I said the the D.B is fat and short, the sleeve is skinny and long. So the D.B air spring actually sits above the tire in the wheel well, so there is not clearance issues there, only with the inner strut tower due to it being a larger diameter. So back to the D.B. I had the upper camber plates set to -2 degrees, so I pulled that back out to 0 and that free'd up more room in the strut tower for the D.B. The tightest measurement at this point between the bag and shock tower was 20mm, and seeing this bag will only grow a maximum 4mm over all (2mm each side) and factor a total possible 10mm (5mm each direction) of strut movement (yes this is more then it will actually move but I like to play it on the safe side) so that means I should at all times have a minimum of 13mm of clearance. Tight, yes but it will work! NOW another issue.... After a full cycle through from full extension to max compression I saw a whooping 74mm of stroke.. On a 114mm damper body... to say the least it's far from ideal. The only thing that was restricting the stroke was compression and it was only due to tire-fender clearance. Now that I have the camber set to 0 on the upper mounts I had no room for the tires to go inside of the wheel wells. So I need more camber adjustment at this point. So I removed the lower mount from the damper body and chucked it up in our bridge port to machine the upper mount hole an addition 6mm in, to have adjust ability at the damper body- to hub location. This does a couple things, gives me the camber I want/need without sacrificing bag to strut tower clearance, and have more camber adjustments. After installation I found all the way in gives the car more then enough camber to provide 111mm of suspension stroke, which is phenomenal on a 114mm damper body. With having the camber adjustment at the lower mount this moves the inside of my wheel closer to the damper body, because the wheel is not moving with damper body on the camber adjustment. Luckily there is still enough room for there to not be an issue, and full in is a total of -4 degrees of camber

at ride height, at air out its just about -5.. This is way more then I intend to run. I would like around -2.5- -2.8 in the front, which will still allow me to have full suspension travel! Anyways the front is pretty much wrapped up. Here are a couple pictures. I will be tackling the rears today.
As I said before we don't just throw bags on cars to slam them, if that was the case this would have been much easier

. A large reason you can't judge performance and handling of all air suspensions off from one air kit. There is a lot of things we do to set our suspension apart from the rest.




Oh also got my rear bumper euro rear lip and euro rear license plate garnish installed