I just got my MS3PRO EVO in for my conversion to standalone on my 4th gen 3sgte. I am planning on taking my time with this install to make sure all the wiring is correct and clean looking. To help with the install I grabbed a 5sfe ECU and mounting hardware out of a junkyard car to use as a template for mounting the Megasquirt into the car.









Got relays, distribution blocks, and different color wiring for a clean centralized install.




My goal is to wire the ECU up for as many features as possible and once I get good tune running, start enabling the features. I spent the last few days reading the instruction manual and it has me excited with how much it can do.

This post has been edited by HardHead93: Sep 8, 2017 - 8:15 PM

Just started the planning and laying out of the MS3PRO EVO. I spent time going through the ECU pinouts and mapping them to the proper connection on the Megasquirt. I printed out a picture of the stock ECU pinout and the Megsquirt pinouts and began assigning connection to each.


I also did a sketch of how I want to physically layout all the components and extra relays I will need.


I am planning to enable the following features on the Megasquirt outside the basic timing and ignition stuff:
- Boost Control
- AC Idle Up
- AC Cut under high load
- Intercooler Fan Control off Intake Temp
- Launch Control (2 step)
- Use the CEL light for warning of issues
- Possibly flat foot shifting (3 step)

I will not enable all these features right away but plan to wire them all up. This will let me enable them one at a time without having to pull the ECU out to do wiring each time. The MS3PRO EVO has the ability to do full 10 cylinder sequential ignition and injection. Since I only need 4 cylinder sequential, I have plenty of spare connections to add all the goodies and fun stuff.

I have finished building the box where all my connections and relays will go. It will sit where the factory ECU is currently, behind the center console. I plan to mount the Megasquirt either behind this box or in the glove box and run all the wiring to this connection box.


This connection box will be set up to do the following:
- The big black box is a 122 pin connector for the factory harness. Most of the MS3PRO connections will go into there.
- There are 4 relays mounted on this box (fuel pump, AC cut, intercooler fan relay, and warning light).
- The distribution block is for any connections that need to leave the Megasquirt but not through the factory harness.

This will make for a clean install and keep all the factory wiring intact.

This post has been edited by HardHead93: Sep 11, 2017 - 12:34 AM

I have started to solder the ECU wiring to the 122 pin harness board.


I am very impressed with the quality of the wiring. Not only did they color code all the wires and provide a key in the instruction manual, every wire has it's function written on the side of it.

This post has been edited by HardHead93: Sep 12, 2017 - 9:21 PM

Watching this thread with excitement. Looking at doing diy pnp on my 2nd gen 3sgte, but considering all options at the moment. Keep us posted!

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I am getting excited too. The progress is a little slow because I am documenting everything and I want to make sure I get it right. When I put a DIYPNP on my 5sfte it was a pain having to constantly pull the ECU out because of small mistakes. I am trying not to do that on this install. Luckily the documentation for the MS3PRO EVO is excellent!

To compare the differences between the MS3PRO EVO and the DIYPNP, I took screen shots of TunerStudio with each one's tuner file open. Here is the DIYPNP:


Here is the MS3PRO EVO:


As you can see the MS3PRO TunerStudio set up has a lot more features enabled. Based on the tabs at the bottom of the screen the MS3PRO has over double the amount of features and monitoring capabilities. This will allow me to set up a lot of goodies and safety features.

Your dedication is fascinating and inspiring at the same time.

Makes me feel ashamed that I've had this Haltech ECU just sitting on my desk instead of in whipping my 3SGTE around... Keep pushing the inspiration, maybe the rest of us will run out of excuses.

Hi,

I did a MS3+MS3X install on a ST215 engine in my ST184 a few years ago. Here's the success story. I don't have the car anymore, but I can answer your questions if you have some.


http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.ph...t=3sgte#p275017

Have a good day!

Sam

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Awesome! I will definitely be hitting you up with questions. Your MS forum post is what inspired me to do this ECU swap.

This post has been edited by HardHead93: Sep 17, 2017 - 3:02 PM

CELEBRATION!!!! I got the Celica to start and idle with the MS3PRO EVO. I wired everything up and spent the last few days hunting down issues. PitCelica, thanks for the help. Without your wiring diagram I would still be banging my head against the wall looking for problems. At first I thought it was my wiring, but after reviewing pitCelica's wiring diagram, I was good in that area. I knew it had to be something with one of the settings in TunerStudio. I am not used to so much control in the software. When I was using the DIYPNP it was simple and post changes were made to the hardware (circuit board) not the software. Once I figured out that my MAP sensor was not calibrated correctly and my injectors were firing out of order. . . VROOM! It started right up. Now I am dealing with the engine running lean. I think I need to do some adjustments to the injector settings (Voltage and Dead Time). Also, I still need to ensure my timing is not drifting. Still a lot to do but I am 1 step closer. Once I am close to done, I will post my TunerStudio settings as well and an ECU pinout wiring.

Congrats on getting it running!
Injector voltage and dead time are super critical to getting a consistent tune. I would make sure you nail those settings before doing any major tuning.

Here is a video of me starting the car with the Megasquirt. Enjoy!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4Hv9gNOW2M...eature=youtu.be

Does anyone know how to check timing with a coil on plug setup? There is nowhere to hook up my timing light.

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Is your afr gauge calibrated correctly with tuner studio? There is no way the car would idle at that afr.

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Yes it is calibrated. It reads that rich when the O2 sensor is heating up. It changes to a normal AFR value after about 30-45 seconds.

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Here is a better video without all the faults, errors, and AFRs reading correctly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bG65osD4_68...eature=youtu.be

This post has been edited by HardHead93: Sep 25, 2017 - 4:22 PM

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This is how i do it





Works perfect

I did some research and found the injector dead time listed for the stock injectors to be 0.804ms @ 13.2V. I played around with the settings and ended up setting the dead time to 0.825ms. That was where I got the best idle. The car idles smooth at around 750 rpm when completely warm. The AFR hovers right around 14.7. SWEET!

I got my ignition timing set. I had to make a 3 degree adjustment but besides that no problems. I am working on getting all the extra features enabled. I got my intercooler fan to turn on based on intake temperature and I am wiring in my extra sensors. Right now I am stuck because I cannot seem to get the warning light to turn on. I have run it through a relay to supply 12V to the pin but it will not turn on. I hear the relay click but besides that nothing.

I finished up the last of the wiring for the Megasquirt. I am glad I stayed organized. All those wires could have gotten out of hand.




I installed the MS3PRO in its final home today and fired the motor up. I still was not able to get the warning light (CEL) to work. I guess all it needs is a ground to work properly but that still did not work. I may have to just ground the pinout to the sensor or chassis ground to test that the light is even working. Also, I was getting frustrated because my intake temps were reading 130+ degrees when the car was fully warmed up at idle. Then I remembered, I have the IAC pulling air from the engine bay using a breather filter. Once I got on the road and was no longer idling the intake temps dropped quickly.

I took the car for a short ride. I kept it below 3K rpm and out of boost. I let the autotune feature in TunerStudio do its job and clean up the fuel table. It rides pretty smooth. I set up a pre-turbo temp sensor in my cold air intake so I can see how much the air is getting heated up by the turbo. It looks like that even with the air running through the intercooler, the temps are 10 degrees higher by the time it gets into the motor. Not too bad. Also, I have the ECU controlling the intercooler fan based on a target intake temp.

I found a good tuner an hour away in El Paso, TX. Once I get a good enough road tune to drive it conservatively on the freeway. I will take it to him to finish off the tune.

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Thanks I did something similar. Here is my setup for testing timing:

I have gotten my engine settings all dialed in and ready for the tuner. Below are the setting I am using. This should get anyone started with their Gen 4 3sgte with a Megasquirt. I am not providing timing or fuel maps because those may be different per engine. TunerStudio can set up a basic fuel map for you using the stock specs of the motor. The stock specs I used are:
Bore: 86mm (unless you have bored out your motor)
Horsepower: 256 hp @ 6200 rpm
Torque: 239 lb-ft @ 4400 rpm

As far as timing use this calculator to get you started.
http://www.useasydocs.com/theory/spktable.htm

PLEASE! PLEASE! PLEASE! Do not go out driving your car hard with an un-tuned fuel and timing map. You will damage your motor. The idea behind a base map is to get the car to start, allow you to tune your idle, and calibrate sensors. You may be able to do some light driving on the car but THAT IS IT! Take your car to a tuner as soon as you feel you have worked out all the electrical gremlins that may pop up.

Engine and Sequential Settings
Control Algorithm: Speed Density
Squirts per Engine Cycle: 1
Injector Staging: Simultaneous
Engine Stroke: Rotary: Four Stroke
No. Cylinders/Rotors: 4
Number of Injectors: 4
Engine Type: Even Fire
Engine Size (cc): 1998
Injector Size (540)
Main Fuel Outputs: Inj A,B..
Sequential On: Fully Sequential
Angle Specifies: End of squirt
Injector Trim: Off
Firing Order
A:1
B:2
C:3
D:4
For the firing order make sure you have wired the injectors and coils in a 1-3-4-2 order.

Ignition Options/Wheel Decoder
Spark Mode: Toothed wheel
Trigger Angle: (not needed)
Angle Between Main and Return (deg): (not needed)
Oddfire Angle: (not needed)
GM HEI/DIS: Off
Oddfire Phasing: (not needed)
Skip Pulses: 2
Ignition Input Capture: Rising Edge
Spark Output: Going High
Number of Coils: Coil on plug
Spark Hardware In Use: Spark
Cam Input (See tooltip): CMP
Tertiary Tach Input: (not needed)
Flip Polarity On Hi-Res Tach / Cam: (not needed)
Trigger wheel arrangement: Dual wheel with missing tooth
Trigger wheel (teeth): 36
Missing teeth (teeth): 2
Tooth #1 angle: 572.0
Main Wheel speed: Crank wheel
Second trigger active on: Rising Edge

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So was having problems getting the AFRs to be consistent when I took the car on a short drive. After doing some research I found that I was using the wrong injector dead time. The reason why I started to question the injector dead time was because on my 5sfte build with 460cc RX7 injectors my dead time was 1.185ms. I figured there was no way that the dead time for my 540cc injectors could be that different. The injector dead time I was using was for low impedance injectors. For high impedance injectors the value is 1.1ms.

why not use 1ZZ coils?

I spent the last few days tracking down issues to get this car ready for the tuner. The latest problem was as I was I was attempting to get a basic fuel map dialed in with AutoTune and I kept getting inconsistent AFRs. This was happening on the road and while idling. I just could not figure it out. Then I looked at the MAP gauge on TunerStudio and the MAP gauge on my A-pillar cluster and they were off by 5 in-Hg at idle. WTF! What could be causing that? After talking to a few people they basically told me that if there are any discrepancies between the software and your aftermarket gauges, 9 times out of 10 the software is wrong.

I did some looking around in the software and found that I had the wrong MAP sensor selected under calibrations. I was using a 2.5 bar MAP setting when the MS3PRO EVO is a 4 bar. I selected the correct MAP sensor calibration and like magic, the gauge and TunerStudio were within 0.1 in-Hg of each other.

I can't seem to get rid of this cam sensor fault. I have tired to ground it in multiple locations and I am still getting a lot of noise on the cam signal. It is like it is picking up the crank signal as well as the cam signal. When I ground it with the crank sensor the car will at least rev to 5000 rpm before I lose sync. All other grounds start giving me problems at 2500 rpm. I think I will need to start messing with the noise filtering function in TunerStudio.

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After messing with some of the noise filtering settings and taking the 10k resistor off the camshaft sensor wire, I was able to get a cleaner signal. The data logs are showing the single tooth on the cam hitting like it should but their is still a little noise. Tomorrow I will take the car for a drive and mess with the filtering settings to see if I can get a clean signal.

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So after almost taking the Megasquirt out back and putting a bullet in it, I figured out how to get a clean cam sensor signal. I ended up doing some digging and found that the VVTi 2jzgte guys were having the same problem with the MS3PRO. They were saying that the cam and crank circuits on the MS3PRO is wired differently than the MSX and Microsquirt. That meant if you had an older generation Megasquirt you would most likely not run into this problem. They were having the same symptoms, a clean cam signal until about 2000 RPM then it would start picking up crosstalk distortion from the crankshaft sensor and eventually the ECU would lose sync. How they fixed the problem was the following:
The NE+ goes to the CKP+.
The G+ goes to the CMP+.
The NE- is wired into the CKP- and CMP-, also the you need to jump the NE- to the sensor ground to clean up the signal.
Finally you need to splice the 1k ohm resistors that come with the MS3PRO EVO from the CKP+ to NE- and CMP+ to NE-.

I gave that a shot and like magic the cam and crank signals were now clean with no cross talk at higher RPM. Occasionally I will get a cam sync error on TunerStudio but it must be bogus because it never seems to affect performance. When I see that cam sync error, kill and restart the car the error goes away. It makes sense because from what I have read the 2jz is based off the 3s design and the gen 4 ignition system is similar to the VVTi 2jz ignition system. You could almost say the 3s is the 2jz's older (but smaller) brother. Toyota is good at reusing their technology on different cars within the same time period. I can't believe how long I spent messing around with just 1 WIRE trying to get this thing to work.

This post has been edited by HardHead93: Feb 17, 2019 - 10:39 PM

Since I am planning on getting the car tuned soon, I thought what the hell, put bigger injectors on. This will future proof me for if I want to run a different turbo or convert to flex fuel. I know I am planning to do a SWEET CT16 upgrade some time next year. The stock injectors can handle that turbo upgrade fine but it puts it up at 90% duty cycle. After doing some research I found it it not good to consistently go over 80% because it over works the injectors and can lead them to fail sooner. I decided to go with 850cc injectors, I remember reading somewhere that the stock fuel rail with a Walbro 255 fuel pump is good for up to 800cc injectors. Since I plan to stay below 80% duty cycle, I never plan to max out those injectors.


Here are some shots of the new injectors side by side with the stock injectors.




It was a pain in the butt getting those things in. The first couple times I put them in they kept leaking at the seals. After dipping all the seals in fuel and wiping out the holes in the cylinder head they finally went in right and sealed properly. Another one of those quick swap jobs that wasn't so quick.

I made the changes in the TunerStudio software and took the car out on the road. The car drove great!

This post has been edited by HardHead93: Nov 6, 2017 - 7:03 PM