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Safari Rally inspired build - 6G Celicas Forums

Topic #98506 96 posts Started by Roodwerks
Thanks, I'm here to build dream cars for myself and anyone that cares to enjoy it...

So, Photobucket has decided to revamp their hosting of photos, apparently by adding in dynamic links, jerks.
yeah, I stopped using photobucket after their first fiasco. I've been using flickr ever since.

*1997 Celica ST - 3SGE Greytop BEAMS*1977 Celica RA29 - Classic Cruiser*2005 Matrix AWD - dedded but still hanging around like a ghost2019 Rav4 XLE Premium - Sports mode is fun.
Dont know if it will ever come to pass, but i an working with a pal of mine to design and get 3d printed a safari rally type snorkel. I am sure if it works out he would sell you the design which you can then send off to a local 3d printers to get produced.?

My Facebook GT4 Build page.https://www.facebook.com/groups/GT4Rebuild
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QUOTE (Nial @ Nov 29, 2018 - 1:33 PM) *
>Dont know if it will ever come to pass, but i an working with a pal of mine to design and get 3d printed a safari rally type snorkel. I am sure if it works out he would sell you the design which you can then send off to a local 3d printers to get produced.?



That would be fantastic. Funny, I never even considered designing a snorkel in a 3d cad program and then sending it out to be made. The original WRC design would be pretty cool, but the flex tubing seems like it could have been out a bit further to the outside, to take up less driver view out the windshield.
I guess the bonus of the flexi bit is that it will go more or less where you want, although being in the uk its on the passenger side for us so not really something i have considered.

My Facebook GT4 Build page.https://www.facebook.com/groups/GT4Rebuild


Will this work..? Guess not...

This post has been edited by Roodwerks: Dec 14, 2018 - 11:40 PM
No pics, but you can find pictures of this project and a few others on my Instagram - roodwerks

I've mostly been trying to track down a rough running issue when it's warming up in colder weather. It runs fine at first start up, 1-2 minutes later it starts misfiring under acceleration, a few minutes after that, sometimes up to 15 minutes later it will start running fine..? It's a weird issue with NO CEL at all. It's been doing it for a few months.

I did buy and mount a new set of center LED flood lights on the front pod, about 3 times brighter than the first pair. I've also been gathering pieces to build a custom rear subframe and arms to fix the lifted geometry and make room for a possible future rear diff..

20181104_114447 by Jon Rood, on Flickr

20181104_114034 by Jon Rood, on Flickr



This post has been edited by Roodwerks: Feb 27, 2019 - 3:58 PM
I finally figured out my poor running issue when cold, bad igniter. The engine pulls easily to 6K rpms now. Of course now the harmonic balancer had to de-bond and start coming apart. If it's not one thing it's another...
-Jon
This past weekend, it was half off at the salvage yard I spend a lot of time shopping at. So, while grabbing parts, I scored a pair of rear speakers with the crazy large plastic brackets, a left-hand high beam housing plus a few other small items. While installing the speakers, I decided to go ahead and use a cheap hot-rodders trick, installed roofing repair adhesive tar tape on the inside of the panels. It's more about changing the sheet metal density then getting even coverage. The back of the car is a good bit less droney now. I've removed the back seat and don't have the cover in the rear luggage area obviously, so it had gotten a bit noisy.

RearSpkrs by Jon Rood, on Flickr
SoundsDdn1 by Jon Rood, on Flickr
SoundsDnd by Jon Rood, on Flickr
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QUOTE (Roodwerks @ Feb 12, 2019 - 5:29 PM) *
>No pics, but you can find pictures of this project and a few others on my Instagram - roodwerks

I've mostly been trying to track down a rough running issue when it's warming up in colder weather. It runs fine at first start up, 1-2 minutes later it starts misfiring under acceleration, a few minutes after that, sometimes up to 15 minutes later it will start running fine..? It's a weird issue with NO CEL at all. It's been doing it for a few months.

I did buy and mount a new set of center LED flood lights on the front pod, about 3 times brighter than the first pair. I've also been gathering pieces to build a custom rear subframe and arms to fix the lifted geometry and make room for a possible future rear diff..

20181104_114447 by Jon Rood, on Flickr

20181104_114034 by Jon Rood, on Flickr


That thing looks so beastly. How does it handle so far? Any rubbing/suspension issues?
The handling is really pretty decent since I was able to retain the swaybar front and back. As for rubbing, yes, hard turns the front tires are contacting the back of the wheel well / firewall area. Under compression, the rear tires move back so far that they contact the backside of the body. It's not enough to worry about daily driving, but all issues will be corrected in the near future with custom rear suspension, probably cutting and moving the front wheel well further back into the cabin area.
Now that I found a decent, free, photo host I will probably start sharing more progress. This past weekend I installed an "Oh-****" Handle, as you know, our cars didn't come with any passenger side grab handle.

Oh****Handle by Jon Rood, on Flickr
Did you bolt into the A-Pillar structure behind the trim, or is it just bolted into the trim itself?

~bloodMoney
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QUOTE (bloodMoney @ Mar 8, 2019 - 10:54 AM) *
>Did you bolt into the A-Pillar structure behind the trim, or is it just bolted into the trim itself?


I used one existing round hole (top one) and drilled the other to insert M8 rivet nuts. So they are bolted into the A-pillar, securely. I made the tool to install the rivet nuts, pretty simple set-up, but rivet nut tools usually aren't too pricey, I'm just cheap I guess.
Gotcha. I like that it's functional.

~bloodMoney
I've replaced just about everything on the engine that could cause my now 2000rpm idle. I've replaced or checked every hose. The important sensors are new or reman; IAC, MAP, CTS, ATS, O2, etc.. Anyone else run across this with the age of our cars and possibly as high a mileage as I have, 280K..? The engine runs great, just a horribly high idle. Ggguuuuurrrrr.......
Might be a dumb question but have you checked the throttle cable? It may need adjustment or it might have a slight burr on the cable. It’s been forever since I’ve had a 5S but I believe there’s an adjustment screw on the throttle body as well, although I think I remember that being addressed already.

"Employ your time in improving yourself by other men's writings, so that you shall gain easily what others labored hard for." -Socrates. Even Socrates told us touse the search button!2006 Aston Martin V8 Vantage.1998 Celica GT-BEAMSSwapped.2022 4Runner TRD Off Road Prenium.2021 GMC Sierra AT4.
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QUOTE (richee3 @ Mar 21, 2019 - 9:32 AM) *
>Might be a dumb question but have you checked the throttle cable? It may need adjustment or it might have a slight burr on the cable. It’s been forever since I’ve had a 5S but I believe there’s an adjustment screw on the throttle body as well, although I think I remember that being addressed already.


No dumb questions in my book. But, yes, the throttle cable is adjusted, if anyting, a bit too loose. The only adjustment screw is the butterfly stop screw, which is properly adjusted, the plate couldn't get any more closed.
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QUOTE (bloodMoney @ Mar 8, 2019 - 10:54 AM) *
>Did you bolt into the A-Pillar structure behind the trim, or is it just bolted into the trim itself?


Imagine if he didn't, call it the "SURPRISE MOTHERF*****".
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QUOTE (TimeslideZ @ Mar 21, 2019 - 8:57 PM) *
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QUOTE (bloodMoney @ Mar 8, 2019 - 10:54 AM) *
>Did you bolt into the A-Pillar structure behind the trim, or is it just bolted into the trim itself?


Imagine if he didn't, call it the "SURPRISE MOTHERF*****".


BAHAHHAAHA Right!?!

~bloodMoney
I gave up for now chasing my high idle issue. Last night I made up a restrictor gasket to go between the IAC and throttle body. It allows air into the IAC and out to the A/C idle up tube but totally blocks air from going into the intake manifold just behind the throttle plate. This is giving it a pretty steady idle between 700 and 800rpms, mostly between 700 and 750. This is only after the engine has warmed up though, it takes slight throttle pedal input until then to keep it from stalling.
UPDATE: I ended up cutting a small hole on the other side of the gasket to bypass a small amount of air. Now idling between 900-1000, starts up fine now and runs without any stumbling with the A/C on. I did order another ECU, haven't installed it yet though.
Clever solution. I like it.

~bloodMoney
So, it's been a VERY long time since I've posted an update on this car. Last year I changed jobs that took a lot of my interest away from doing too much on the car for a while, then trying to upload pictures got too frustrating. For those that have followed me on Instagram know that the flood gates opened up on the modifications since mid March, working from home now. The back end is looking WOW!! The car handles great and the addition of Nissan Skyline R32 seats help hold me in place on and off road.

-Jon
A friend and I attempted an epic journey this past week. We got from Phoenix AZ to Capitan NM without issue, via all back highways, no interstates. We then clawed over the mountain to the north of town and down the other side. About 5 miles from the end of the trail/dirt/rock road, the engine started giving up the ghost. We patched, refilled with water and gave the engine time to cool down several times, giving us the forward momentum to make it another 15-20 miles, maybe more. Finally 12 miles from Roswell, I gave up and we got a hold of a tow truck service. 2 days at the local Toyota dealership finally got us the answer, blown head gasket, very worn out engine that won't even start now.
SO - I'm thinking about pushing the changes up a notch. I've been gather the pieces to convert it to AWD anyways. Now I need to figure out which engine swap might be right for me... How cool would a BEAMS on an AWD box be? Or, what about a V6, 1MZ-FE on an AWD box?

Anyone know of a free photo host, would love to share pictures once again??
Honestly I’d suggest something with more torque than a BEAMS for an AWD conversion. The BEAMS is fun in FWD guise but at only 154 lb ft of torque, you’d have more fun with any other swap. 2GR comes to mind as one that would be great for AWD but I don’t know if there’s room for the exhaust and trans in a 6gc bay. Norberto would have more insight into that.

I currently use Imgur for image hosting/sharing. It gets the job done. I’m sure there are better solutions out there but Imgur works and that’s all I really need.

"Employ your time in improving yourself by other men's writings, so that you shall gain easily what others labored hard for." -Socrates. Even Socrates told us touse the search button!2006 Aston Martin V8 Vantage.1998 Celica GT-BEAMSSwapped.2022 4Runner TRD Off Road Prenium.2021 GMC Sierra AT4.
^ 2GR would be the way to go for V6, the 1MZ/3MZ wouldn't be bad either. But it's hard to beat the swap of the 3SGTE with power mods to cover for the AWD.
awd 2gr could be possible. i studied the possibility with a smaller transfer case on the e153, there are several out there. gave up on the ideal once the gt4 were to expensive. hate the idea to buy one and toss the engine out...

some info here

https://www.newcelica.org/threads/celica-aw...-thread.394209/

but there are several threads..

you will have to fab your exhaust or use the ones from a awd 2gr...

Learned a lot in 10 years...I hardly log in anymore, last loginToday Sept 6 2019, and I was forced just to clarify a post. LOLIf you PM me and I dont respond, dont fret or cry. Im alive, better post your questions in the thread below, maybe I log back in2grfe Swapped...Why I chose the 2GR, before you ask read here...A great civilization is not conquered from without until it has destroyed itself from within.@llamaraxing in Instagram is the best way to find me. I hardly log here anymore.