Over 1M Posts • 84K Topics • 9K Authors

How-To : Refurbish and paint your stock GT wheels - 6G Celicas Forums

Topic #30863 35 posts Started by Jdog1385
>>Note: This how-to and its associated photos are now located at this url:

http://www.6gc.net/howto/refurbish_and_paint_wheels

-Christian Coomer, Administrator
>
>

Aight here we go;

I recommend you refurbish your wheels with the tires REMOVED. This is how I did it and how this do-it-yourself is written up. Im not responsible for any ignorance on your part, wink.gif .

WHAT YOU NEED

1 - NORTON 3X 320 Ultra Fine Grit Contour Sanding Sponge. $1.50 (2 pack)

2 - NORTON 3X 150 Fine Grit Contour Sanding Sponge. $1.50 (2 pack)



3 - NORTON Multi-Sand Medium Grit Sanding Sponge. $2.00 (1)


4 - Wood/Metal files. I highley recommend These: WORKFORCE 10 Piece File Set. $10.00
(you will need most of them).


5 - Dupli-Color WHEEL COATING. (white HWP100, silver HWP101, gunmetal HWP102, satin black HWP104, bronze HWP105) $5.99 (need at least 3 cans) = $18.00

6 - Dupli-Color WHEEL COATING CLEAR COAT (HWP103) $5.99 (need 2 cans) = $12.00

7 - ZEP BIG ORANGE INDUSTRIAL CLEANER. or any other cleaner you have. $5.00

Total spent on items $50.00. This is all that you will need. Everything but the paint you can buy at HOME DEPOT. You can buy the paint at PEP BOYS or any auto store.

REFURBISHING YOUR WHEELS

Step 1 - Using the metal files.

The first file you will use is the roughest out of the bunch. The one that looks like it will do the most damage. This file is used to remove the deep gashes and scratches on the lip of the wheels. Take nice, easy strokes over the gashes but dont give it to much muscle...let the file do the work. You also dont want to go too deep into the metal (you only want to remove the gash not the entire lip). This file will create scratches and you will feel like its not working but dont get nervous. After you have removed the gashes put that file away b/c you will not need it anymore.



The next step is using the finer files to remove the scratches created by the rough file. Use these files the same way you used the other one but with a little more muscle. Go evenly over the surface making sure you keep the curve constant on the lip of the wheel (you dont want to lose the continuity of the lip). You will get the rough scratches out with these files but there will still be scratches...this is where the sanding comes into play.
[img] i need to get pics for you, sorry[img]

Step 2 - Sanding the Wheels

The final steps of refurbishing the wheels deals with sanding. This is where you will se remarkable changes. Start sanding the area with the NORTON Multi-sand medium grit sanding sponge. This sponge will get the coarse scratches out created by the files. Next use the 150 grit Norton 3X pad to get the area smooth. This will make the surface shiney and smooth. Finally use the 320 Grit Norton 3X pad. This pad will do the most damage in restoring the wheel to almost perfect shape. This will remove all of the sanding swirls and marks. Your arm should be killing you after using this pad, if not, you havent sanded enough. If you still have minor scratches, keep repeating the sanding process until you get them out. Its annoying but its worth it.




If you still see scratches, unfortunately you have to file again. I had to do this process a couple of times because i was conservative with the files...you've learned from my mistake.

PAINTING YOUR STOCK WHEELS

Step 1 - Preping the Wheels

This is the most important process in painting your wheels. The more time you take, the better the results. First, you must buff the entire wheel. Use the 150 and 320 grit Norton Sponges you used earlier. These sponges will remove the clear coat and some of the paint. Do not skip over this process because you will regret it.

Step 2 - Cleaning

Use ZEP Big Orange industrial cleaner or any industrial cleaner you may have lying around the house. You will need to remove the sanding dust and brake dust on the inside of the wheel. Use a brush to get the dust/rust buildup off on the inside of the wheel. Make sure all loose material is off the wheels.

Step 3 - Applying the paint

Angle the wheel so that it is not parallel to the ground. This makes it easier to paint the wheel evenly. Apply 2-3 coats evenly over the wheel (not one thick coat). After you've painted the front of the wheels, turn them over and apply to the back (give it about 1-2 hours before you do this). Apply about 2 coats to the back of the wheel to cover the rust and hardened dirt.

Step 4 - Applying the clear coat

Apply the clear coat about 1-2 hours after you've applied the paint (see can for details). Spray the clear coat evenly over the wheel. The paint will look cloudy while you are applying but it is not a problem because it will dry clear. I used 2 thin coats because i wanted a satin look but its totally up to you. I recommend no less than 2 coats because the clear will protect the paint on your wheels.

Thats it, your done! Now buy some sticky tires and get those wheels mounted and balanced. I painted the weights on the wheels after the tires were balanced...it looks so much better.

showing off;






If you live close to me or if you'd like to ship me your wheels, ill refurbish and paint them for you at a low price.

This post has been edited by Jdog1385: Jan 11, 2009 - 12:42 AM
>
QUOTE(dustin15brown @ Nov 15, 2005 - 9:20 PM) [snapback]356062[/snapback]
>
Great write up man, I vote for a sticky



thanks. if you think i missed anything just tell me...ill put it in
Got your sticky right over here

DEF

I will return one day.
>
QUOTE(defgeph @ Nov 15, 2005 - 9:45 PM) [snapback]356070[/snapback]
>
Got your sticky right over here

DEF



good stuff, thanks...ill get it up on the site also when its finished.
I recommend using a medium grit sand paper to get those scratches out. you wont be able to use the files because they are too big (you'll wind up scratching the wheel worse). use the medium grit sand paper and then use the fine sandpaper to get out the swirls.
wouldnt you want to take the wheel weights off before you paint, because when you get the tires rebalanced you get a big spot of an unpainted wheel. My .02

FlickR2011 Subaru WRX and 1997 3sgte Celica
>
QUOTE(BLINKYxMUNKEY @ Nov 15, 2005 - 11:21 PM) [snapback]356112[/snapback]
>
wouldnt you want to take the wheel weights off before you paint, because when you get the tires rebalanced you get a big spot of an unpainted wheel. My .02


yea i did take the weights off. they fall off when you take the tires off. plus you need to take them off before you balance your new tires.
Nice write up Jdog.

QUOTE(lagos @ Jul 10, 2006 - 1:55 PM) [snapback]454118[/snapback]i know your trying to do the right thing for your motor, but this is one of those times where you should just trust the guys who have had their swaps for a while and have done a ton of research into this.
awesome write up. i'm gonna go to your house and get my rims done lol. i'll go buy paint biggrin.gif

Turbo install made possible thanks toTeamJ.D.M.officially 5SFTE junior member~*MuH NeW RiDe*~
GREAT job jdog!
biggrin.gif
good work!

Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered
thanks guys. just wanted to help out the 6gc crew.
awesome. how long do you think that dupli-color paint will last on it? because my rims were painted with ppg car paint and they hold up pretty good but i was thinking of doing the whole thing because there are some surface scratches and curb marks and stuff. i also need to balance my tires so id rather do this too. how long is the paint supposed to last if you do the job right? also, are you supposed to paint the backside of the rim too??? i dont think my rims came like that. its just a bunch of lines and it looks like theres no paint on them. since my rims are painted, i think it would be better to get some airplane paint remover to get all the paint off the rims. what do you think?
oh damn, looks great wink.gif

i will do it too, but i was to slow this winter frown.gif

WWW.SLOWRIDER.CH
>
QUOTE
>awesome. how long do you think that dupli-color paint will last on it? because my rims were painted with ppg car paint and they hold up pretty good but i was thinking of doing the whole thing because there are some surface scratches and curb marks and stuff. i also need to balance my tires so id rather do this too. how long is the paint supposed to last if you do the job right? also, are you supposed to paint the backside of the rim too??? i dont think my rims came like that. its just a bunch of lines and it looks like theres no paint on them. since my rims are painted, i think it would be better to get some airplane paint remover to get all the paint off the rims. what do you think?


You probably dont even have to take off the paint thats already on the wheels just sand and buff them and the Dupli-Color paint should go on fine. If you use 3 coats of paint and 2-3 coats of clear, the paint shouldnt chip off unless you hit a curb or something like that. I painted my wheels in late august of this year so i dont really know for sure yet. but i will keep everybody updated.

I would definitely paint the backside of the rims because it just looks better and it doesnt look like you did a half-assed job.
wouldnt you think sanding down the edges of your rim would set them off balance?
>
QUOTE(Digndoug @ Nov 20, 2005 - 12:23 AM) [snapback]357437[/snapback]
>
wouldnt you think sanding down the edges of your rim would set them off balance?


na, because you have to balance them when you put your new tires on
awsome write up i wish this would have been around when i did this last year. the more i think about it i did most of the same stuff but i used a dremel to file the edges down, and i have no patience so it turned out like crap.
-Aaron-
>
QUOTE(afroman @ Nov 20, 2005 - 2:05 PM) [snapback]357548[/snapback]
>
awsome write up i wish this would have been around when i did this last year. the more i think about it i did most of the same stuff but i used a dremel to file the edges down, and i have no patience so it turned out like crap.
-Aaron-


yea i was thinking about using a dremel but you need to be careful not to take off too much metal
I have some really deep gouges in the rims I just got at the junkyard. Has anyone tried bondo for filling stuff like this. These are going to be for my winter tires so I'm not all that concerned about the appearance. Still, I'd be nice to have them smoothed out.

Scott
>
QUOTE(RocketScott @ Nov 22, 2005 - 1:30 AM) [snapback]358245[/snapback]
>
I have some really deep gouges in the rims I just got at the junkyard. Has anyone tried bondo for filling stuff like this. These are going to be for my winter tires so I'm not all that concerned about the appearance. Still, I'd be nice to have them smoothed out.

Scott


I guess you could try bondo but I would stay away from it b/c it will probably chip off. You can try sandable primer that you spray on and it could possibly fill in the gouges.
>
QUOTE(Jdog1385 @ Nov 23, 2005 - 6:14 AM) [snapback]358774[/snapback]
>

I guess you could try bondo but I would stay away from it b/c it will probably chip off. You can try sandable primer that you spray on and it could possibly fill in the gouges.


That's what I'm worried about. The gouges are pretty deep, like a 1/8 inch in places, ao I don't think I can build the primer up that far. They're just for my winter tires so I think I'll just paint them as they are.
>
QUOTE(RocketScott @ Nov 23, 2005 - 12:39 PM) [snapback]358844[/snapback]
>
>
QUOTE(Jdog1385 @ Nov 23, 2005 - 6:14 AM) [snapback]358774[/snapback]
>

I guess you could try bondo but I would stay away from it b/c it will probably chip off. You can try sandable primer that you spray on and it could possibly fill in the gouges.


That's what I'm worried about. The gouges are pretty deep, like a 1/8 inch in places, ao I don't think I can build the primer up that far. They're just for my winter tires so I think I'll just paint them as they are.


yea just try to sand around the area to blend in the scratches as much as possible. it wont look that bad when you paint them.
Sandable primer worked pretty good. Thats what i just used on my wheels. Where did u get ur dupli-color clear coat? Thanks. -John
What was the total time for the whole process...???
>
QUOTE(Celica_Kid95st @ Feb 27, 2006 - 11:28 AM) [snapback]400407[/snapback]
>
Sandable primer worked pretty good. Thats what i just used on my wheels. Where did u get ur dupli-color clear coat? Thanks. -John


glad to hear that the sandable primer worked well. I bought the dupli-color clear coat at Pep Boys, you can also get it at autozone. if you dont have those places near you, im sure you can get it online.


>
QUOTE
>What was the total time for the whole process...???


the longest part of the process was sanding and filing the wheels which took about 4 hours to do. should be able to get everything done in about 12 hours as long as you have everything you need and you dont have to go out. it just depends on how good you want the wheels to look.
really considering getting this done! would it be pretty much the same thing for 7th gen rims?

This post has been edited by Wizardofodd: Apr 14, 2011 - 6:56 PM
no, you have to get 7th gen paint and sandpaper

Learned a lot in 10 years...I hardly log in anymore, last loginToday Sept 6 2019, and I was forced just to clarify a post. LOLIf you PM me and I dont respond, dont fret or cry. Im alive, better post your questions in the thread below, maybe I log back in2grfe Swapped...Why I chose the 2GR, before you ask read here...A great civilization is not conquered from without until it has destroyed itself from within.@llamaraxing in Instagram is the best way to find me. I hardly log here anymore.
>
QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Apr 14, 2011 - 6:36 PM) *
>no, you have to get 7th gen paint and sandpaper



Man, I dont' know whats up with you lately, but you have been so ON. LOL!

KAOS|THE PROGRESSION - SLOW & STEADY|PARTING OUT- it ALL must go!|