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QUOTE (Harold_Fastwaker @ Oct 6, 2009 - 8:06 PM)
>What I am say is try fitting a et53 9in wide wheel on our car as noted by your original calculations. It wont even come close to bolting up because the tire will have to go through the strut.
Yes, I realize your calculations are so people still have plenty of clearance for their sunk wheels. That is fine, in my world, it looks dumb. So in about 20 minutes I will post up the flush offset calculations.
English must not be your first language because it says right there next to it in my first post that it probably won't fit.
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QUOTE (Harold_Fastwaker @ Oct 6, 2009 - 8:37 PM)
>First: You will need to run stretched tires for this to work and preferably a nicely lowered car.......... Or 4x4 your car and run it Donk status. I don't care, but you will have to choose one of those options.
FOR THE REAR WHEELS ONLY >>**You need to roll your fenders for all of these.>>
As for tires, I highly suggest you run 45 series tires and I HIGHLY recommend Falken 512s. They handle stretching very well.
These numbers will make your wheel flush with the body. If you want to wheel to poke then run a lower offset then I have listed. This in turn means you need to run a smaller diameter tire and some negative camber.
Spacers:
For those of you who need a 25mm spacer or larger for your look. I suggest A-Dapt-It USA (http://adaptitusa.com/) or Motorsport Technologies (http://www.motorsport-tech.com/)
The A-Dapt-It's will be cheaper and will be lug centric. Motorsport Tech can make you hubcentric to hubcentric adapters which are double the cost of A-Dapt-It's. Either choice is fine, I run lug centric and so do plenty of other people. Toyota still ships cars off the assembly line with lug centric wheels. Don't let the scare tactics of hubcentric or die mess with your head. With lug centric you just need to tighten your lugnuts in the standard star pattern starting from the top.
You've lost all credibility with this post. You should NOT use non-hubcentric spacers on cars that have hubcentric rims from the factory... This is basic and is blatant mis-information. You're rim is located on your hub/spindle this way and unless your hub/spindle was designed as lug-centric(it's not) this is not a good idea.
If you wanna make your own post about flush rims requiring rolled fenders and stretched tires and spacers that are going to fvck your sh!t up by all means do so... But don't come in here and crap all over my thread.
This post has been edited by WannabeGT4: Oct 6, 2009 - 10:15 PM
I bought them online without even knowing about wheels. Being young and stupid hurts you sometimes. I still have them...seven years later, LOL.
