any body know the oil pressure i should be getting at the TEE next to the filter on the 7AFE? around what?
Oil pressure on 7AFE - 6G Celicas Forums
>
i think it is around 53-60 psi on a cold start
QUOTE(southwest2118 @ Jan 19, 2006 - 12:04 AM) [snapback]380744[/snapback]
>
any body know the oil pressure i should be getting at the TEE next to the filter on the 7AFE? around what?
any body know the oil pressure i should be getting at the TEE next to the filter on the 7AFE? around what?
i think it is around 53-60 psi on a cold start
from the BGB the oil pressure is around 3.8 to 71 psi
This post has been edited by Batman722: Jan 19, 2006 - 1:33 AM
my st205 swapandour Beams swap
whats BGB?
big giant book.....toyota's handbook on the celica
but yea normal running pressure as batman says is 71 (too high for a turbo
)
but yea normal running pressure as batman says is 71 (too high for a turbo
)
>
Big Green Book
QUOTE(southwest2118 @ Jan 20, 2006 - 8:00 PM) [snapback]381656[/snapback]
>
whats BGB?
whats BGB?
Big Green Book
my st205 swapandour Beams swap
i get 45 or so at startup/ under throttle. At rest and warmed up the oil pressure should be like 5
45 is right around where you want it when warmed up and under throttle, generally.
71 is more like when you just started it and it's COLD. Even then... that's pretty high and not normally seen.
71 is more like when you just started it and it's COLD. Even then... that's pretty high and not normally seen.
-Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaireClick here to see my swapsdrtweak@phoenixtuning.com
at start up i get like 50 and under throttle its like 60 at rest its like 3... dose that sound ok??
This post has been edited by southwest2118: Feb 6, 2006 - 7:20 PM
This post has been edited by southwest2118: Feb 6, 2006 - 7:20 PM
>
Yes
QUOTE(southwest2118 @ Feb 6, 2006 - 7:20 PM) [snapback]389801[/snapback]
>
at start up i get like 50 and under throttle its like 60 at rest its like 3... dose that sound ok??
at start up i get like 50 and under throttle its like 60 at rest its like 3... dose that sound ok??
Yes
my st205 swapandour Beams swap
-3an piping or Restrictor ??
??? its for a rebuilt t3 .42/.48 A/R??
They say you're supposed to use a restrictor if the pressure goes over 50 under load...so then yes.
I've heard of people using them and blowing their turbos, and I've heard of people using them and having great results.
I've heard of people not using them and blowing their turbos, and I've heard of people not using them and having great results.
Choose your poison.
-Doc
I've heard of people using them and blowing their turbos, and I've heard of people using them and having great results.
I've heard of people not using them and blowing their turbos, and I've heard of people not using them and having great results.
Choose your poison.
-Doc
-Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaireClick here to see my swapsdrtweak@phoenixtuning.com
come on doc what do you do?
It's on a case by case basis.
I buy the restrictor, but don't use it, and then I measure the oil pressure right at the turbo. If it's within reason then I go without it and if the turbo doesn't smoke, then I don't use it. If it smokes, then I install it. Either way I give it to the customer to keep so that if the turbo starts to leak oil down the road, they can put it in (if the oil pressure is the problem).
-Doc
I buy the restrictor, but don't use it, and then I measure the oil pressure right at the turbo. If it's within reason then I go without it and if the turbo doesn't smoke, then I don't use it. If it smokes, then I install it. Either way I give it to the customer to keep so that if the turbo starts to leak oil down the road, they can put it in (if the oil pressure is the problem).
-Doc
-Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaireClick here to see my swapsdrtweak@phoenixtuning.com
at WOT I'm at 60 psi....so i should try just running any size to the turbo if it starts to give me problem buy restrictor.?
>
Well, don't run anything bigger than -3 AN or 1/8" which is what it's equal to.
-Doc
QUOTE(southwest2118 @ Feb 11, 2006 - 8:01 AM) [snapback]392125[/snapback]
>
at WOT I'm at 60 psi....so i should try just running any size to the turbo if it starts to give me problem buy restrictor.?
at WOT I'm at 60 psi....so i should try just running any size to the turbo if it starts to give me problem buy restrictor.?
Well, don't run anything bigger than -3 AN or 1/8" which is what it's equal to.
-Doc
-Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaireClick here to see my swapsdrtweak@phoenixtuning.com
other then the internet where can i get those sizes? and steel braided? i have female 1/8" npt on the Tee from the block and the turbo.
hey doc you think i can run 5 psi with no fuel mods?
from the compressor housing to the Wastegate, should there be a boost controller? Like Nik?
This post has been edited by southwest2118: Feb 11, 2006 - 3:20 AM
hey doc you think i can run 5 psi with no fuel mods?
from the compressor housing to the Wastegate, should there be a boost controller? Like Nik?
This post has been edited by southwest2118: Feb 11, 2006 - 3:20 AM
>
Typically I order all my AN stuff online, I can't get it anywhere locally. However, since you have a 1/8" npt on both the tee from the block and the turbo, you can just run a 1/8" high pressure line (like a hydralic line, you can get these at pretty much any parts store) with clamps. Of course you'll need a 1/8" barbed fitting for the line to fit over. Then you don't have to mess with any of the stainless AN stuff (although that looks a lot nicer).
No.
If you know what the wastegate is set to then you don't need it, no. For that matter, you cannot run anything LESS than what the wastegate is set to, a boost controller will only allow you to run MORE boost. (For example, if the wastegate is set to 7 psi, you can set the boost controller to run 8 or 9 psi, but you cannot set it to run 5 or 6 psi. The wastegate setting is the MINIMUM.)
-Doc
This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Feb 11, 2006 - 3:55 AM
QUOTE(southwest2118 @ Feb 11, 2006 - 8:15 AM) [snapback]392130[/snapback]
>
other then the internet where can i get those sizes? and steel braided? i have female 1/8" npt on the Tee from the block and the turbo.
hey doc you think i can run 5 psi with no fuel mods?
from the compressor housing to the Wastegate, should there be a boost controller? Like Nik?
other then the internet where can i get those sizes? and steel braided? i have female 1/8" npt on the Tee from the block and the turbo.
hey doc you think i can run 5 psi with no fuel mods?
from the compressor housing to the Wastegate, should there be a boost controller? Like Nik?
Typically I order all my AN stuff online, I can't get it anywhere locally. However, since you have a 1/8" npt on both the tee from the block and the turbo, you can just run a 1/8" high pressure line (like a hydralic line, you can get these at pretty much any parts store) with clamps. Of course you'll need a 1/8" barbed fitting for the line to fit over. Then you don't have to mess with any of the stainless AN stuff (although that looks a lot nicer).
No.
If you know what the wastegate is set to then you don't need it, no. For that matter, you cannot run anything LESS than what the wastegate is set to, a boost controller will only allow you to run MORE boost. (For example, if the wastegate is set to 7 psi, you can set the boost controller to run 8 or 9 psi, but you cannot set it to run 5 or 6 psi. The wastegate setting is the MINIMUM.)
-Doc
This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Feb 11, 2006 - 3:55 AM
-Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaireClick here to see my swapsdrtweak@phoenixtuning.com
how do i know what the wastegate is set to?.........
you think i can get away with a fmu and a bigger pump?
you think i can get away with a fmu and a bigger pump?
Normally you find out from whoever you buy the turbo from.
Yes, as long as you run no more than 7 psi, at that point the pressure gets so high when using an FMU that the injectors have trouble opening. And you should still get an MSD Boost Timing Master to retard the timing under boost.
-Doc
Yes, as long as you run no more than 7 psi, at that point the pressure gets so high when using an FMU that the injectors have trouble opening. And you should still get an MSD Boost Timing Master to retard the timing under boost.
-Doc
-Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaireClick here to see my swapsdrtweak@phoenixtuning.com
you think this will work PN# EAR-981603ERL x2 on http://store.summitracing.com/ and the line?
or i should get ONE with a 90 or 45 degree bend.
or i should get ONE with a 90 or 45 degree bend.
Yeap you'll need two of those and two of these: EAR-600103ERL
And of course some stainless -3 AN line. You may want to use a 90 degree on the top of the turbo, depending on how your route everything...
-Doc
This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Feb 11, 2006 - 4:06 AM
And of course some stainless -3 AN line. You may want to use a 90 degree on the top of the turbo, depending on how your route everything...
-Doc
This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Feb 11, 2006 - 4:06 AM
-Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaireClick here to see my swapsdrtweak@phoenixtuning.com
****....let me sleep on it
>
QUOTE(Dr_Tweak @ Feb 11, 2006 - 2:58 AM) [snapback]392143[/snapback]
>
Normally you find out from whoever you buy the turbo from.
Yes, as long as you run no more than 7 psi, at that point the pressure gets so high when using an FMU that the injectors have trouble opening. And you should still get an MSD Boost Timing Master to retard the timing under boost.
-Doc
Normally you find out from whoever you buy the turbo from.
Yes, as long as you run no more than 7 psi, at that point the pressure gets so high when using an FMU that the injectors have trouble opening. And you should still get an MSD Boost Timing Master to retard the timing under boost.
-Doc
2-EAR-600103ERL Fitting, Hose End, Speed-Seal, Straight, -3 AN Hose to Female -3 AN, Steel, Zinc Plated, Each $5.25 $10.50
1-EAR-981603ERL Fitting, Straight, -3 AN Male to 1/8 in. NPT Male, Aluminum, Blue,
Each $1.75 $1.75
1-RUS-660790 Fitting, 90 Degree, -3 AN Male to 1/8 in. NPT Male, Aluminum, Blue,
Each $6.95 $6.95
ok what hose? can't i make my own on this site with the end connections i want?
1-EAR-981603ERL Fitting, Straight, -3 AN Male to 1/8 in. NPT Male, Aluminum, Blue,
Each $1.75 $1.75
1-RUS-660790 Fitting, 90 Degree, -3 AN Male to 1/8 in. NPT Male, Aluminum, Blue,
Each $6.95 $6.95
ok what hose? can't i make my own on this site with the end connections i want?
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...15&autoview=sku
This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Feb 11, 2006 - 4:19 AM
This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Feb 11, 2006 - 4:19 AM
-Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaireClick here to see my swapsdrtweak@phoenixtuning.com
will i need to retard timming if i use a ?safc2? and some bigger injectors?.........
what if i get rid of the 2 x speed seal end pieces and get this EAR-63010114ERL
or this will be better EAR-63010121ERL ...yaa...i'ma go to sleep
This post has been edited by southwest2118: Feb 11, 2006 - 4:26 AM
or this will be better EAR-63010121ERL ...yaa...i'ma go to sleep
This post has been edited by southwest2118: Feb 11, 2006 - 4:26 AM
>
Yes, but if you use larger injectors and the Greddy e-manage or the Perfect Power SMT6 then you don't since they both have timing control.
>
You'd have to measure them to see what length you need, but if the length is right then yeah, they would work.
-Doc
QUOTE(southwest2118 @ Feb 11, 2006 - 9:20 AM) [snapback]392150[/snapback]
>
will i need to retard timming if i use a ?safc2? and some bigger injectors?.........
will i need to retard timming if i use a ?safc2? and some bigger injectors?.........
Yes, but if you use larger injectors and the Greddy e-manage or the Perfect Power SMT6 then you don't since they both have timing control.
>
QUOTE(southwest2118 @ Feb 11, 2006 - 9:23 AM) [snapback]392151[/snapback]
>
what if i get rid of the 2 x speed seal end pieces and get this EAR-63010114ERL
or this will be better EAR-63010121ERL ...yaa...i'ma go to sleep
what if i get rid of the 2 x speed seal end pieces and get this EAR-63010114ERL
or this will be better EAR-63010121ERL ...yaa...i'ma go to sleep
You'd have to measure them to see what length you need, but if the length is right then yeah, they would work.
-Doc
-Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaireClick here to see my swapsdrtweak@phoenixtuning.com
>
thats exactly what everyone who turbos should do.
good call doc.
also if you dont wanna hassle with all that feed line stuff,
just measure what length you need.
decide which ends you want,
and call atpturbo theyll custom make you a stainless braided -3an line for a good price.
mine is 20" total length, and it was 28$
i did make my own oil filter relocation lines, tho, and if thats the way you decide to go, its not really that hard at all to do, once you get the hang of it.
This post has been edited by presure2: Feb 11, 2006 - 8:33 AM
QUOTE(Dr_Tweak @ Feb 11, 2006 - 2:44 AM) [snapback]392121[/snapback]
>
It's on a case by case basis.
I buy the restrictor, but don't use it, and then I measure the oil pressure right at the turbo. If it's within reason then I go without it and if the turbo doesn't smoke, then I don't use it. If it smokes, then I install it. Either way I give it to the customer to keep so that if the turbo starts to leak oil down the road, they can put it in (if the oil pressure is the problem).
-Doc
It's on a case by case basis.
I buy the restrictor, but don't use it, and then I measure the oil pressure right at the turbo. If it's within reason then I go without it and if the turbo doesn't smoke, then I don't use it. If it smokes, then I install it. Either way I give it to the customer to keep so that if the turbo starts to leak oil down the road, they can put it in (if the oil pressure is the problem).
-Doc
thats exactly what everyone who turbos should do.
good call doc.
also if you dont wanna hassle with all that feed line stuff,
just measure what length you need.
decide which ends you want,
and call atpturbo theyll custom make you a stainless braided -3an line for a good price.
mine is 20" total length, and it was 28$
i did make my own oil filter relocation lines, tho, and if thats the way you decide to go, its not really that hard at all to do, once you get the hang of it.
This post has been edited by presure2: Feb 11, 2006 - 8:33 AM
Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered