I have a few sound system questions.

I'm thinking of adding a sound system to my car by the end of May which gives me enough time to save up.

Q1:
What is the point in putting a Sub (8") in both side doors?

Q2:
How much should I roughly look at spending for the system (components in the front, 2 speakers in the back, headunit and a sub 10" with an amp)? I'd like to get one for qaulity and not the extreme bass.

Q3:
What should I look at when choosing a system? the Sensivity aka the dB?

Q4:
How do I calculate how much amp I need

Q5:
What can I do to stop the car from rattling once it is installed?


I'm a n00b when dealing with cars -_-.

Q1:
there is no point in it unless your addicted to speakers like me
Q2:
Money = Quality USUALLY however i left my stock speakers in after i switched to some aftermarket cause i liked them more
Q3:
not quite sure on this one but thats one thing i would compare along with placement/size/wattage
Q4:
there are 2 ratings:
Peak Wattage = MAX power the speaker can handle
RMS Wattage = what you should run it at

Choosing an amp - match the RMS ratings it should give you optimal performance and chances are it will be hard to blow the speakers
Q5:
I used Dynamat and some old T-Shirts behind that carpet/plastic stuff and now it hardly rattles when i have it cranked (Dynamat isnt the only choice here I used BQuiet. It's pretty much the same but cheaper)


Any other questions just PM or email me or something, Ill try to answer everything

>

A1
Subs in the doors aren't necessary. I would only get them custom built in along with the speakers. They will give your system some extra depth from the front.

A2
This all depends on the brands. I'm not an expert on which brands make the best speakers/subs etc.. but I'd shop around and see what different stores offer, u can always test out their equipment. Usually the more $$$ u spend, the better the product.

A3
Sensitivity is not dB-aka loudness. Sensitivity is the range of frequencies the speakers have a response to. It's the overall system that matters in the end. Your tweeters will cover the higher range, your front speakers mid to hi, ur rear speakers are bassier, and ur sub will cover the bass and the kicks.

A4
When looking at the amp wattage, if u match the max watt output of both the amp and the sub, u cant go wrong. Again, ask the store ppls to give u advice on which amp, as prices do vary quite a bit depending on power output and type of amp.

A5
Dynamat. They're thin sheets that absorb sound, making less sound escape the car and also slightly reducing road noise. I got it myself, it does work, and my boot rattles significantly less

So how is this?

CD Player:
Alpine CDA-9856
Price: 200
RMS Watts: 18 Watts, Peak Power 50 x 4 channels

Component Speakers:
Alpine Type-R SPR-17LS
Price: 250
RMS Watts: 70, Peak Power: 350

Speakers:
Infinity Kappa 652.7i
Price: 150
RMS Watts: 75, Peak Power: 225

Sub:
Infinity Kappa Perfect 10.1
Price: 150
RMS Watts: 350, Peak Power: 1400

Amp:
Infinity Reference 611a
Price: 350
RMS Watts: 456 watts x 1 at 4 ohms/657 watts x 1 at 2 ohms

This post has been edited by JonCars17: Mar 6, 2006 - 9:38 AM

stay awau from polk, if your wanting a decent system for a cheap price...i would say bolt, because it is made by rockford fosgate.

>

I'm not really looking for a cheap system per say. Just trying to get a really good system for atleast under 1500. I may even up it to 2000 (max)

Updated list above with

Component Speakers:
Alpine Type-R SPR-17LS
Price: 250
RMS Watts: 70, Peak Power: 350

Speakers:
Infinity Kappa 652.7i
Price: 150
RMS Watts: 75, Peak Power: 225

I will tweak it as the days go by, every comment helps

This post has been edited by JonCars17: Mar 6, 2006 - 9:37 AM

i know this is very subjective... and a lot of people disagree but you don't really need rear speakers. they don't really add to the system... and u can use that money for even better quality equipment for other parts of ur system. a lot of people aren't used to it at first, but after a while they love it (no rear speakers)

you also might want to get 2 amps instead of 1

if you go to crutchfield site, they have kinda like a advisor thing that is quite useful. tells you what to look for in equipment, calcualting amps and stuff: http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/learningcenter/car/

you should read up a bit before spending that 1500-2000 of yours

these links might help:

Equipment recommendation: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthre...95&page=1&pp=15
Elite car audio basics: http://www.elitecaraudio.com/search.php?query=&topic=1/
Basic car audio electronics: http://www.bcae1.com/
Car audio FAQ: http://www.faqs.org/ftp/faqs/car-audio/

for 1500-2000, you can get an INCREDIBLE system. $1000 can probably get you an awesome system already

this might be of interest to you:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...AMESE%3AIT&rd=1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

This post has been edited by elvasoshexai: Mar 6, 2006 - 11:23 AM

Okay, if you're going to use the Alpine SPR-17LS, you need a separate amp for those. I have those component speakers in my fronts too and they only sound good off an amp, not just the head unit. And you don't really need Infinity back speakers, this is your chance to save money. Back speakers are mainly to fill out your car. But i didn't know that before I bought back speakers. In my backs I have the SPR-17LP (Alpine Coaxial Speakers). But if you truly want those pairs of fronts and backs, then you need a 4 chan amp that puts out around 75W RMS @ 4Ohms per chan.

I got SPR-17LS Fronts SPR-17LP backs running off MTX-MXA6004 amp (4 chan 70W RMS @4 ohms). Sounds Crazy...

Good luck...
Yet

I think you got a decent set up going there... ive heard some people complain about the Kappas, so id look around a little more on the sub, just to make sure you find what you want. Also i agree with vyet, you definatley want to get another amp to power your front components, and then use the deck to power your rear co-axs. and i think if you have the money, then you should definatley replace the rear speakers. Also pay attention to Ohms. They can differ from the amps. my .02

>

This is true. For best SQ, most people will fade to the front (I do). I have my speakers faded about 11/15 to the front, rears are only for a little bit of rear fill, and for rear passangers. Having them too loud normally, drags your whole sound stage back.

Splits (depending on the quality) should still sound better than stock speakers off the head unit. Head unit will put out about 18W rms, give or take, but as these guys have said, will sound A LOT better running off an amp. Even feeding them 50W rms, they will sound much better than stock speakers, or the splits off the head unit.

But if you dont have the money right now, underpowering the fronts for the time being wont do them any damage. Just save up for a decent mono for the sub. Its better to have a decent mono amp for your sub, than to sacfrifice quality and get a sub-par 2 or 4 channel for your fronts/rears, and sub-par mono amp.

If you want a quality sub, i'd personally stay away from Infinity. They've always seemed a pretty "cheap" brand. Have a look at Kicker, JL, Alpine, or less mainstream, Image Dynamics, or even DD, theres plenty of variety around. Go out and have a listen to these speakers yourself. It will sound different when in the car, but you'll have somewhat an idea of what they sound like.

This post has been edited by ShadowFX: Mar 6, 2006 - 9:39 PM

>
thats a good moderate system there

yeah it is, but I modded it early yesterday, I'm thinking of going with all Alpine.

CD Player:
Alpine CDA-9856
Price: 200
RMS Watts: 18 Watts, Peak Power 50 x 4 channels

Component Speakers:
Alpine Type-R SPR-17LS
Price: 250
RMS Watts: 70, Peak Power: 350

Speakers:
Alpine Type-R SPR-17LPi
Price: 150
RMS Watts: 50, Peak Power: 250

Sub:
Alpine SWR-1242D
Price: 200
RMS Watts: 500, Peak Power: 1500

1st Amp:
Alpine MRP-F450
Price: 300
70 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (100 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms), 200 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)

2nd Amp:
Alpine MRD-M1005
Price: 550
RMS Watts: 700 x 1 at 4 ohms/1000 x 1 at 2 ohms

but like I said I'll probably continue to change it as the days go by. The back speakers are up in the air, so I still donno if I want to get them or not. Overall price is 1800 but that is before tax and shipping. I think if you order from Crutchfield then shipping is free, could be wrong thou. I'll probably have to do some major lying on this one thou. If my parents found out I bought (future) a 1800 sound system they be on my back til They/I die. My mom is already on me for spending 1000 on body to my car -_-.

This post has been edited by JonCars17: Mar 7, 2006 - 6:42 AM

Thats a pretty decent system. Alpine do make great gear, and the system will be loud, and sound great.

Just want to point out but, its not (mostly always not) going to be the best system, by going all one brand. Gear doesnt "match" up with other audio components of the same brand. It may have extra features, such as Alpine amp control being able to be controlled by some Alpine HU, but theres no audiable advantage with matching brands, unless of course, that particular brand makes the best of those two products.

This post has been edited by ShadowFX: Mar 7, 2006 - 7:14 AM

>

Stay away? I havent had a single problem and have had my stuff for over a year.

I personally ended up going with 8" subs in the doors because I wanted good bass without sacrificing the vert's already small trunk. I assume you are no longer going that route; especially because you already have selected quite a beefy sub. However, if you are not an absolute bass fanatic and don't mind dynamating your doors, you can get two JL Audio 8w0's. They fit your doors with some very minor dremeling for the magnet. JL Audio always underrates their speakers; I've got a pair of 8w0's running at 130w rms apiece and have had no problems so far. As long as you are not an aggressive user and have clean power (don't overdrive the amp), going half-again as much power with JL's is not a problem.

It's probably not the solution you're looking for, but figured I'd let you know. 8w0's are about $90 apiece, and are only sold by dealers, so you can't get them off the internet.

>


if you end up not getting the rear speakers, with the money you save you might wanna try looking into the alpine type-x components?

This post has been edited by elvasoshexai: Mar 7, 2006 - 9:13 AM

>

The site (Crutchfield) didn't have the Type-X components which is why they aren't on the list. I'll check a site later on when I get another break from work. Yesterday I had off so I could look and pick all day . Especially seeing as my car is in the shop. I'll probably check on ebay come friday for cheaper prices. I'm thinking of purchasing bit by bit like I did for my computer. How should I hook up the system:

AMP 1:
CD Player and 12" Sub

AMP 2:
Front components and Rear speakers

I was planning on buying them in this order:

CD Player
Sub
Amp
amp 2
component
rear speakers (if I get them)

Edited:
Went ahead and ordered my sub. I found one for 82 dollars cheaper than price stated above

Link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1

This post has been edited by JonCars17: Mar 7, 2006 - 1:32 PM

>

now thats a system

Yes, it will be damn sweet with that in. I spent like $600 tops for mine.

i'm just gonna throw this out there, sorry im not great on specifics:

front: 6 1/2 component Infinity Kappa
rear: 6 1/2 Infinity Kappa
sub: Kicker L7 10''

i've heard all of these pieces, and they really sound amazing.

>


thanks for basically describing my system, only i dont have the rears...i have some other 6.5"s that i picked up... and my 10" is a 12. and i second it, i havent installed it all, but ive heard it all, and i agree...i think its pretty nice.

I guess I 'll throw in my 2 cents as well.

First off, I respectfully disagree with what a couple posters said:

1) Sensitivity IS related to db. Sensitivity is the measurement of how loud a speaker plays given an amount of power. This is not a big deal if you're interested more in SQ but if you're looking to get the most volume for your buck then this is a spec to consider.

2) DO NOT match speakers and amps by their PEAK power rating. Peak power is what it can handle for a split second while RMS power is what it can handle continuously. I've seen peak power ratings for speakers and an amp that were the same while the RMS rating for the amp was almost DOUBLE that of the speakers. Try to match the RMS ratings and it won't hurt to have the amp be a little bit more.

3) As someone else said, I would not be too concerned about matching brands. Although Alpine does make good stuff, they're not the only ones. Some other good brands to check into are Eclipse, JL, Boston Acoustics, Diamond Audio and Precision Power. I'm sure you'll get many recommendations from many people, just do some research and keep an open mind about brands that you've never heard of before.

Some final tips:

When looking for a hu, look for a pre-out voltage of 4 volts or better

Stick with the factory rear speakers and spend the extra money on better front comps

Consider using the stereo's own amp to power the rears thus possibly eliminating the need for a second amp or at the very least allowing you to bridge to get more power

so this is how I should set it up right?

1st:
CD Player and Rears (factory)

2nd:
Sup and Components on the amp

What happens if I add rears, does that mean I have to add another amp because on the amp I'm getting only has 2 speaker connections on the back.

see:
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/products/...RDM105-i-1.jpeg

I'll most likely go with the Type X components thou but I doubt I buy them this week it may by a week or 2 for that.

This is basicly my problem now, this and enclosure. I just don't know which type of enclosure to get, type: 1, 2, or 3.

With the HU RCA voltage, yes, higher will be better, but >4V isnt entirely neccessary. It will give a slightly cleaner signal, but I doubt you'd be able to hear this. Antyhing really above 2V would be adequate.

That amp I'm sure if a mono amp, i.e. only for running the sub/s. To run components, you'd need either another 2 channel amp, 4 channel amp (either to run the rears as well), or only a 4 channel amp, to run both the fronts and sub.

This post has been edited by ShadowFX: Mar 9, 2006 - 6:28 AM

ok, I'm starting to get it. Mono is ment only for woofers. So I can't hook up a speaker to it. So for me to hook the speakers up (including rears aka aftermarket) then I need another amp which has 4 channels. This right or did I misread?

This post has been edited by JonCars17: Mar 9, 2006 - 6:47 AM

Thats right. A sub only carries one channel. It reproduces a mono sound.

Fronts and rears carry two channels each, i.e. stereo sound. So to run 2 sets of speakers (not sub), i.e. fronts AND rears, you need 2 channels for each set, which means 4 channels for your 2 sets of stereo speakers (A Sub is also a speaker btw.)

This post has been edited by ShadowFX: Mar 9, 2006 - 8:27 AM

Does that mean I can have 2 subs per mono amp?

The reason why I ask is because I may want to add another sub later on.

Sorry for all the questions

This post has been edited by JonCars17: Mar 9, 2006 - 9:51 AM

>

Yes you can BUT the amp has to be 2ohm stable.

If you look at mono amps on Crutchfield, a lot of them will list a 4ohm and a 2ohm rating, for example 150 watts x 1 @ 4ohms and 300watts x1 @2ohms. What you will do is wire the 2 subs in parallel. This is basically hooking up 2 speakers to the same terminals. It may seem strange that you can do this but you can, as long as the amp can handle the load.

I'm sure you've discovered by now that there are A LOT of different stereo configurations that you can have.
For a very good SQ setup I would recommend 1)a very good head unit 2) as good a set of comps that you can afford 3) a high quality amp ( or amps ) and 4) at least 1 sub.

What I was suggesting in my previous post about running the rears off of the head unit is that MOST people with a good set of comps up front fade heavily to the front so that the rears are just providing ambient sound.
IF you decide to go this route, then why waste an external amplifier powering the rears when they're not using much power? My suggestion is to get a high power, high quality 4 channel amp and use 2 channels to power the comps and the other 2 channels to power the sub(s). Then use the head unit's built-in amp to power the rear speakers.

Again, there are a lot of different ways you can go but YOU have to decide what's the best setup for you.

what do you mean by "A very good unit"? The one I chose isn't the cheapest but isn't the highest either.

on choosing an amp, do I add up the RMS like say I have a speaker at 70 rms and another for 75, do I need a amp of atleast 150 RMS or an amp of 75 rms minimum? This is my main problem, this is why I chose a mono amp to begin with 1000 rms at 2 ohms.

As far as sound qaulity goes, what is the difference between a mono amp and a normal amp other than what was stated above (meaning mono is meant for subs only)?.

This post has been edited by JonCars17: Mar 9, 2006 - 4:11 PM

>

By very good unit, I mean a well-respected brand like Alpine or Eclipse that has 4 volt (or better) pre-outs, high signal to noise ratio, wide frequency response and low total harmonic distortion. Generally, buying one of those respected brand names gets you all those things but it's always good to actually check the specs. If you're buying ffom Crutchfield, they should have all those specs available for you on their site. This way, you can compare, say a $200 Alpine and a $400 Alpine and see if the price difference is just features.

Amplifiers are rated to deliver power into a certain number of channels. Most are 2 channels but there are also 4,5 and 6 channel, and mono amps are -you guessed it - 1 channel. You'll see these ratings expressed as 75 watts x 2, 100 watts x 4, 300 watts x 1, etc. If you have 2 speakers rated 70 rms and another pair rated 75 rms and are looking to power them all with the same amp then I would look for an amp that is rated at 75 watts rms x 4 channel.

As far as sound quality of amps goes, I was just trying to make the point that there is more to an amplifier than the power it puts out. There's a lot of junk out there that promises lots of power but if you're amplifying a noisy signal then all you'll have is very loud noise. Check out the THD, signal to noise and frequency numbers and more importantly read user reviews online.

Ask around, search the internet and get a general idea of what quality brands to look for BUT go listen to these brands if you can. Check out every car-stereo shop in your area and listen to all the different head units, speakers and amps that you possibly can. The bottom line is that you have to be happy with how it sounds.