yo nathan, your inbox is full. im trying to get ahold of ya

Recieved my exhaust manifold gasket, valve cover gasket, oil pan sealant, VTV for the mr2 BPV, and what I thought was going to be the bracket that screws into the BPV to hold the VTV, but actually turned out to be some odd shaped clamp that I have no idea what exactly it's for.. lol

downpipe will be arriving today too. Then I've just got the turbo and a few odds and ends.

can anybody tell how they mounted their front mount intercoolers below the crash bar? I was just going to do what lagos (I think that's who it was that said it) said and get some thread rod and angle iron, but I see other people aren't doing that so I wanted to know what my other options are.

buy some L brackets from home depot or something and just mount it under the crash bar. Also, its 1/8 NPT...looking good so far man, gauges look nice!

This post has been edited by jcaron9gt4: Jun 6, 2007 - 2:17 PM

Whats NPT

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National Pipe Thread (NPT). It is a standard on tapered pipe thread size.
British Standard Pipe Thread (BSP).
Nominal Pipe Size (NPS) is standard for straight pipe.

This post has been edited by WALKER: Jun 6, 2007 - 4:38 PM

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TY much

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isn't everyone using this: http://tunertoys.zoovy.com/product/OTODK ? it says it has 1/8 BSP male threads for threading into the block, plus has 1/8" BSP female for threading the stock sensor into it. then two 1/8" NPT female threads for the oil gauge and oil line... what I don't understand is, the stock sensor can still thread into it (1/8" BSP), but it can't thread into the block... did anyone else using this have to use an adaptor?

>

I haven't tried mine yet, but I am not sure your problem?

The block is a female BSP thread and the sensor is a male BSP. The adapter has the female BSP on the end to put in the sensor. It then has to female NPT's for oil line and pressure sender.


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I just reread an earlier post of yours. I am not sure if you stripped the threads when you tried the NPT in the BSP on the block. That might be your problem.

This post has been edited by WALKER: Jun 6, 2007 - 4:28 PM

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well no, I tried the BSP first. and it appeared as though it fit in the hole, it just wouldn't thread in. maybe I just had too much teflon tape on the fitting. I'll try to take that off, then try to thread it in, if it does I'll just use less teflon tape. if it doesn't, guess I'll be looking for a 1/8" BSP to 1/8" NPT adaptor...

This post has been edited by 6strngs: Jun 6, 2007 - 10:22 PM

not much of an update but:
gapped the spark plugs to 0.030 though they came out of the box pretty close to that
recieved my downpipe and final 2.25 - 2.50" coupler
tried to hook my boost gauge up, but realized that the hose they included was too small... so I forced it to fit (barely) and taped it in place and got my boost gauge to read my engine vacuum for about 10-15 seconds before it blew a hose off. lol. at least I know how to connect it now when I get the proper sized hose. I assume I can use vacuum hose, and I don't need this clear pvc hose, right?

in fact, the whole install of these prosport gauges has been quite a pain. they didn't come with a very long wiring harness, maybe only like 18 inches... it wasn't enough to reach down from the A-pillar, so I had to extend all the wiring. Plus, the modules in the engine bay also need a power and ground source... I don't see why they couldn't just use a harness and use the power and ground already hooked up to the gauge.... *sigh* oh well, I got it figured out now... at least they look purty... at night... they're kinda hard to see during the day.

EDIT: some pics for you
Downpipe, has a bung for a second o2, and what I guess is an EGT bung but I really don't know

exhaust manifold gasket, valve cover gasket, oil pan sealant and VTV


here's the clamp that I ordered thinking it was the bracket for the VTV


This post has been edited by 6strngs: Jun 7, 2007 - 2:50 AM

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you shouldnt be using teflon tape there. its a tapered thread.

got some properly sized vacuum hose to hook my boost gauge up now. though I can't test it out yet. see, when I did my fuel pump, I kinda ghetto rigged it, becuase when I went to loosen the nut for the hard line, it was on so tight that I bent and broke the hard line before it loosened the nut. so I had rigged it with a piece of rubber fuel hose and some clamps, but on one side of the hard line there wasn't much left to clamp to, so the line popped off while driving yesterday and I went through a quarter tank of gas in about a minute! it was leaking all over the place! so I ordered a whole new fuel pump bracket. hopefully it'll be here like tuesday or wednesday so I can get my car running again.

turbo should have shipped today, but I was told it's missing two pieces. the V-band clamp that holds the two housings together, and a nut for the shaft on the compressor side... but I'm having a little bit of difficulty finding these two pieces. I'm sure I can get a new nut at a hardware store. but the clamp... could I use a universal V-band clamp if it's the right size? anybody know the size?

ok, so I recieved the new fuel pump bracket today and got the car running again. No more honda driving for me!

Boost gauge is hooked up and working now.

I've got to go to toyota at some point to pick up the rest of the things I need to get my BPV to work correctly plus the two gaskets that go between the turbo and the oil and water lines. They're already ordered, and I believe some or all of them are in stock now, I just have to go back to pick them up... and it's like 20 miles away and I have no time cause I'm working full time now over the summer.

Turbo should be coming in tomorrow hopefully. Then I just need to get a V-band clamp for it, which I already ordered from ebay, plus I need a new nut for the shaft on the compressor side. about this, I've heard OEM toyota is the way to go, but I'm told they don't sell this nut seperately. I think there is a way you can order ALL the nuts/bolts for a CT26 from toyota, but I don't know a part number or anything. so I think for the time being I'm going to use a generic nut from a hardware store.

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ill say it again, your asking for trouble with that turbo.

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I don't recall you saying that before... so, how exactly am I asking for trouble?

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once you take a turbo apart, its no longer in balance.
with speeds over 100,000 rpm, the compressor exducer and shaft NEED to be perfectly balance to have any kind of longjevity.
they need to be balanced, on a machine.
sometimes, the cheapest turbo you find isnt the turbo to buy

There is a guy up here in washington selling a low mileage (80K) CT26 for 200 bucks if you need it. No shaft play.

Pull off those 'rubber' Oil Lines and install the Braided Aircraft Lines before you street this.

Braided Aircraft Lines are not a creation for the 'Rice' 'ronies - it was created because 'rubber' lines that have flaws - can burst - rupture - pin hole to gusher.

Engine Fires - loss of traction - lack of Engine Oil Pressure are valid reasons to run some Earl's products in for Cheap Insurance.

Wow... I really hate having to buy things twice... no wait, make that THREE TIMES!!! I had already bought a turbo from Negative, but he seems to have vanished with my money Now you're saying this other turbo I got won't be lasting long. great... so what kind of life can I expect from this turbo if I don't have it balanced? I'd need a few weeks to save up some money for a different one.

also, I never said steel braided lines were ricy, but that getting hose covers for rubber lines to make them look like stainless was. lol. but yeah, this was a way I saw to cut some cost. I do plan on getting the steel braided lines and the canton racing adaptor eventually, I just needed something to get me by for the time being. I did get hose covers for added protection, and I will keep an eye on them. I also have an oil pressure gauge, so if a line did pop, hopefully I'd be able to see it on the gauge and pull over and shut the car off before it's too late...

so, this project has been officially delayed due to a lack of funds. I still need to get:
a nut for the turbo compressor wheel $2
a Plug for EGT bung on the manifold $2
something to mount the Intercooler with $15
New oil $36
couple feet of 3/8" fuel hose and T's for the coolant lines $20
oil restrictor $23
muffler $100
catalytic converter $80
have a second bung welded on DP $50 ?
and then a custom exhaust $300-500

Total cost of $628-828... so that'll be at least 3 weeks, but possibly more. But, I've only gotten one estimate on the exhaust and it was an import performance place... I'm going to ask some exhaust shops because I'd think they could do it cheaper.

well you should be fine for a bit without the braided lines. While it isnt the best way to go, if you cover them up good and keep an eye on them, they will be fine for a while. Just try and make them avoid the downpipe as much as possible. I admit, they are a bit "ricey" but i was also short on money and just needed my car to be driveable. But now i finally have everything i needed like my water injection and stuff, i can now focus on some more important stuff like all my oil lines. But good luck with the build man!!

ok, so I finally went out and tried to install the sensor for my oil pressure gauge again. and guess what? once I took the teflon tape off, I was ble to get the T to screw in! so now my oil pressure gauge is working. and I was trying it out, and I noticed something, it seemed odd to me but somebody tell me if it's supposed to do this, but once the car is warmed up and everything, the oil pressure is like 19 PSI at idle, and if I give it a quick rev, it shoots up to 50-60 PSI, and then comes back down. but the wierd part is, when it comes down, it drops down low, to like 10-11 PSI and it feels like the engine kinda shakes a bit when that happens, it stays at the low PSI for like a second or so, and then goes back up to 19 PSI and everything feels fine. is it supposed to drop down that low after a quick rev?

if you're still trying to reach negative, i can try to get in touch with him if you still need to. He doesn't have internet access at home, and he believes that his work place blocked this site along with a few others. If you need his cell phone number, I can PM it to you.

Yeah, if you can get in touch with him and tell him I'm still waiting on him to get back to me that would be great. Thanks

went and picked up my toyota parts. Here's the gaskets for the oil and coolant lines for the turbo (with part numbers in case anyone needs them) and the T for the vaccum lines for the BPV.


and I found some brass T's at a different auto store. so I picked those up along with a couple feet of 3/8" fuel hose.


And the completed BPV:


This post has been edited by 6strngs: Jun 16, 2007 - 3:01 PM

Got the other O2 sensor bung welded on for only $20 at a local muffler shop. Not the cleanest weld I've seen, but it'll do.



I also placed the order for the oil restrictor

Here's everything left to get:
a nut for the turbo compressor wheel $2
a Plug for EGT bung on the manifold $2
something to mount the Intercooler with $15
New oil $36
muffler $100
catalytic converter $80
and then a custom exhaust $300-500

So a total of $535-735. So actually, I think I just might be able to install everything by next weekend... we'll see.

This post has been edited by 6strngs: Jun 16, 2007 - 4:11 PM

I also placed the order for the oil restrictor

Here's everything left to get:
a nut for the turbo compressor wheel $2
a Plug for EGT bung on the manifold $2
something to mount the Intercooler with $15
New oil $36
muffler $100
catalytic converter $80
and then a custom exhaust $300-500

So a total of $535-735. So actually, I think I just might be able to install everything by next weekend... we'll see.
[/quote]

??? what downpipe are you using?

oil pressure should be about 10psi per rpm... the faster the motor spins, the faster the oil pump spins, the more oil volume is moved, the higher the oil presssure will be.

the CEL for a 5sfe comes on below 5psi at idle and the BGB says something about 35psi around 3000rpms ..

nuke

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using my oil pressure gauge, I can say that if you rev it to like 4K it shoots up to like 50-60 PSI. at idle it's just below 20 PSI after the car is warmed up. and I'd say 35 PSI if cruising at at 3K rpms is pretty accurate.

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I'm using an ebay downpipe:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyota-Celi...sspagenameZWDVW
I want to get a magnaflow high flow catalytic converter so my car won't be AS illegal. I'm just scared that if a cop ever pulled me over and he checked and saw I didn't have any cats that I'd be in more trouble then if I had one. then again, the car is so low I doubt he'd be able to check without jacking it up... i don't know, maybe I shouldn't worry about a cat, and just go without one to save some money.

Hey, if everyone that has a 5sfte could PM me with their SAFC II settings, that would be great. Like what percantages you put for high and low throttle, what RPMs you corrected at for both high and low throttle maps, how much you corrected at each RPM for both high and low throttle maps, and also what Air/Fuel ratio you were aiming for at certain RPMs for both your high and low throttle maps. I'm planning on getting as many people's settings as I can, that way I can see a pattern and give my car a base tune without ever starting it. Then, since no two cars would need the exact same settings, I'll use my wideband to more finely tune it, then later on I'll get it onto a dyno for some final tweaking.

This post has been edited by 6strngs: Jun 17, 2007 - 12:38 PM

what muffler shop did you go to for the modification on the DP?

i may be mistaken, but i dont think that the transdapt relocation kit will fit with that downpipe. You might HAVE to get the one that mannys running. The only reason that mine fits is because i have the stock downpipe from a 3's. Its got sort of a dent in it that allows room for the oil cooler. Those ones on ebay dont have that dent where it 90's. It might fit, but i dont think it will.