well, after tearing the car down basically and replacing a lot of things. coming inches from giving up, and then changing my mind, and problem after problem, I've got another problem. My turbo blew. Some say it was under-fed oil, others say it was over-fed. In any case, it doesn't work. Well, this is the second turbo to blow on this car... the first one had problems from day one, but was used with an oil restrictor the entire time it was on the car... it lasted not even a week. the second one lasted about 2 months, and blew on the first hard run that I did after installing the restrictor. I'm not saying that it caused it, though it does really look like that, but everyone else on this website is using a restrictor without problems and swears that they are necessary, so I will still be using one on my new turbo. which brings me to that, I'm getting a new turbo. This time, a Garrett T3/T4 hybrid. 46 trim, .63 A/R. should be good for a couple more horsies anyway here's a list of some parts that'll be going on hopefully next week:

Garrett T3/T4 turbo, 46 trim .63 A/R
Tial 38mm wastegate, .7 BAR spring (10.15 PSI)
Ebay CT-26 to T3 manifold adapter
Custom 3" downpipe
Custom 3" Aluminum intake (thanks to CaliJeff)
Greddy oil catch can (again, thanks to Jeff)
Battery relocation

all the flanges, gaskets, and oil lines will likely be coming from ATPturbo.com who are located about 30 miles west of me anyway, I'm going to try to take a bunch of pictures and document this as best as I can. I'm going to be trying to do this without removing the A/C like I believe Shannon did. so, it's gonna be a challenge. but I'll figure it out one way or another. Anyway, here's some pictures of what I have so far, the rest should come in next week:

CT26 to T3 adaptor:


Intake:


Catch can:


more to come soon.

This post has been edited by 6strngs: Apr 15, 2008 - 10:58 PM

I know this sounds stupid... but what is a catch can and how does it work

it goes in between your PCV and intake and basically just cleans all the oil vapors out of the air going to your intake.

hehe this is good stuff.
i know we've already covered some of this stuff, but ill add it in here for future searches.

i would start with a smaller 5.5psi spring for the Wg. ive seen dynos of 3s guys making ~270whp @~14-15psi, so 10 psi "should" be ok, but, i would definetly go on the lower side to start with, just to stay safe.
boost control is gonna be CRITICAL to this setup. one small mis-step above 10psi (your WG spring) and your motor will be toast.

you "can" fit the downpipe and WG dump tube in there with the AC.
things get a little hairy when you want to locate the oil filter relocation on the passanger side frame rail.
the lines and all that stuff start getting close to the belt and stuff, and for shannons car, it was best to just remove it.
they arnt mechanicly inclined enough to keep a close eye on that, so for reliability concerns, we removed it, so that they wouldnt have to worry about it failing on them down the road.
couple notes about that adapter:
use factory hardware on the manifold side, it will give you more clearance to tighten the nuts.
be sure to check all those bolts after the first couple heat cycles.
ATP makes some really nice Vband flange adapters for t3 outlets. ill tell ya, i swear vbands are the BEST.
makes installation and removal a snap.
an extra expense, no doubt, but worth it IMO.
now, 2 questions.
how many miles on the motor?
have you done a compression test lately?

i cant wait to see you get this up and running.
hopfully youll have better luck with it than what you did with the ct-26 based setups.

>

oh. thats tight. Lookin good btw hope to see good numbers when you are finished.

how close is that adaptor going to make the new turbo come to your radiator? Correct me if im wrong but don't you have a Koyo radiator which is a bit wider? Looks good though!! it will be interesting to see how much more power you'll be putting down.

let me kno when u need help on the install

how many miles on the motor? ha ha. just rolled over 160K the other day gotta love toyota.

never done a compression test. perhaps I'll borrow my friends compression tester before I put all this stuff on.

HAD a koyo radiator. I acutally ended up trimming part of the fan shroud support things just to fit the CT26! I swapped back over to a stock radiator and now it fits in, but barely. I imagine either needing to cut away part of the fan shroud again, putting the fan on the other side of the radiator and have it push and rather than pull, like on malpaso's 7afte, but I don't know if it'll fit between the radiator and AC condensor. the other option is to get a super slim SPAL fan like what mr2 guys use. but that costs money so that's gonna be the last resort.

I really wish those manifold adapters copied KO racings wg placement so that you didnt have to do a oil filter relocation.

>
agreed, the ATS one is nicer, but its 175$

>
doesn't the ATS adaptor put it in the same spot as the ebay one?

>
IIRC the ATS adapter points the WG out the front.

dang it... you're right. it does put it in front. but it costs about $100 more, and it just has a hole for a wastegate and you have to weld your own flange on. but crap, it wou be much simpler and easier if it was in front. well, if the oil filter relocation gets too tight without removing the AC, maybe I'll spend the extra for it.

crappy "in-progress" pic. it was too dark to get any good pictures. but anyway, relocated the battery today! I spent a lot more than I expected to on it though. I could've gotten wire for like $.99 a foot at a hardware store, but their wire basically had like 7 or 8 really thick strands of wire in it, then I went to an automotive store, and paid like $3 a foot for wire that had a ton of itty bitty strands of wire, like every other wire on the car. got 15 feet of it and it was just enough. I had maybe an extra 6 inches to spare. lol. I routed through the interior of the car, rather than under it as some have done. The hardest part was securing the battery. I finally figured out a way to though. I used the OEM battery tie downs and got them in in such a way that that battery isn't going anywhere! this is just temporary though until I can afford one of those fancy optima battery trays/boxes on ebay. but it won't be going anywhere. I took a couple hard corners just to be sure... it didn't budge at all

tomorrow I might try to fit the intake and catch can in. I'm not really sure where I'm gonna mount the catch can. I was gonna put it where Jeff had his, but my intercooler piping is routed differently then his and it's in the way, so I'll have to think of something else.

installed the intake to see if it'd fit, it does, but barely. also installed the oil catch can, but it's not really in a permanent resting location. it's zip tied in place for now, so it's not going anywhere, but for now I'm gonna wait until I have the new turbo in before securing it anywhere because it may or may not need a different location when the new turbo goes in.

pics to come when it's light outside. I'm having a totally unrelated issue now though. my shifter is popping out of the shift cable. I know there was a clip that was supposed to go on to keep it from doing that, and I can't remember why I didn't put it back on. I either lost it or broke it. I was planning on getting a new one, but since it worked without issue I kinda just put it at the back of my mind. and it worked for months. then about a month or so ago it popped out. I thought I blew the transmission or something, lol. but when I realized I was still in 2nd gear, I was able to "limp" home and get it back in. I guess I should have taken the hint then and started searching for one. but I'm just stupid I guess. anyway, it popped out again today. I popped it back in, and decided to start searching for one after school tonight. and then it popped out again just as I was getting to school! I popped it back in and made it home with only shifting 3 times! (2nd gear got me to the freeway, then 5th on the freeway, then back to 2nd to get me home) now I'm determined to find some way to fix it. I'm thinking of taking a bunch of rubber bands and just wrapping it around it a bunch of times to keep it in place until I can find a clip... we'll see though.

well, this came in like 2 days after I ordered it. it's the bung for the oem O2 sensor from KO racing. unfortunately still don't have a tial wastegate which supposedly was supposed to be here late last week/early this week but is still not here yet on thursday... and the turbo has been in transit for 8 total business days now and the tracking number hasn't shown anything since the second day. I was planning on both parts to be here this week, but apparently it takes longer than 2 weeks to get a turbo from quebec canada to californa, and more than 6 business days to get a wastegate here from mississippi... *sigh*

I'll take a bunch of pictures tomorrow. what I can say now is that my turbo came in! but since no one was here to sign for it, they are holding it at the post office, but the post office closes at 5 and I didn't get home til 6 tonight, so I'm gonna head over tomorrow morning before work to pick it up! I'm so excited, I've been waiting for this thing for 2 weeks! the wastegate still isn't here though, the jerk said he "assumed" that Tial would've shipped it out by now, and was gonna contact them today, but no word from him yet. if it's not here by friday I'm gonna be royally pissed. I was planning on installing everything last week, and if still can't do it this week... grr. anyway, I'll take some pictures tomorrow, I might do a bit of test fitting and such tomorrow.

looky what I got! looky what I got!


it's f'in huge! a little too huge The one I rodered was a 46 trim, 0.63 A/R, with a 0.50 A/R compressor... this one is the same (as far as I know) but with a 0.70 A/R compressor. is this going to pose any problems? I REALLY don't want to wait another 3 weeks for a different turbo, especially since it's really going to be 3 weeks sending this one back, 2 weeks for them to 'process' it, and another 3 weeks for the new one to get to me... so I'm pretty sure this turbo will be going in my car no matter what, but just wondering how this will affect performance.

Dude, that thing is huge!!!

boooooo. lag city.

^ I was thinking the same thing. Turbo Lag ftl.

You call it lag. I call it traction.

>

>
not on a 5s, when the turbo hits after 4000rpm, it pretty much becomes usless in 1000 rpm when everything falls on its face anyway..
now, a 3s, thats a WHOLE diffrent story art.
a .70 a/r is too big for a 5s application.

>

I was just joking.

However I would love to see a really oversized turbo on a 5sfe someday. If you ever go on honda-tech, youll see that those guys run gigantic turbos on their SHOC cars, that flow a lot worse then a 5sfe, and yet they have some good results. Granted, they do have a power band of 1-2000 rpm.

This post has been edited by lagos: Feb 26, 2008 - 6:53 PM

so... what can I do? can I just get a .50 A/R compressor housing or am I gonna need a compressor wheel to go along with it?

with whatever turbo you go, it'd be a good idea to add a set of regrind cams so you can take a little bit more advantage of the turbo.

so the verdict is... I'm gonna buy CaliJeff's used CT-26 for now while I send this turbo back to get the right sized one. I tried to fit it in the engine bay and it hits the bleeder screw for bleeding the clutch system. so it doesn't fit unless you clock it so it points upwards like the CT-26 does. I'm pretty pissed about it.

sent an e-mail to the place I got my turbo from, here's what I wrote:

Hi,
My name is Nathan, I just ordered a turbo from you about 2 and a half weeks ago. It finally arrived today but it's the wrong size. I ordered a Garrett T/T04E, 46 trim, 0.63 turbine A/R, and 0.50 compressor A/R. What I recieved definately has a 0.70 compresser A/R which is way too big for my application, in fact, I tried to fit it in and it doesn't even fit. I think it might also only have the 0.48 turbine A/R because the fins on the exhaust side seem really small. but I'm not really sure. I'd really like to just return this turbo for the right sized one, but I'm kind of limited on time. So, what options do I have?
Nathan


here's the reply:


Hello NAthan,

Yes there is a model of t04e with smaller spouts (3" and 2" instead of 4" and 2½") but in terms of fitment, it will make no difference since all T04e compressor housings have the same outside diameter. Don'T worry aout the compressor A/R value being too large, it's not the case, this parameter has only minor impact on the behavior of the turbo and a higher A/R is more appropriate for mild setups while low A/R is better for very high pressure boosting.
The wheel trim that you have ordered (46) on the compressor side is basically what dictates the capacities of the turbo.
If physical fitment of the turbo is a problem, I would recommend switching to a t04b cold side that will reduce your compressor housing overall diameter by around 1" (½" each side) and we have some t04b cold sides with wheels flowing similar and even more than t04e 46 trim and they are the same price.

concerning your turbine side, i know it may be confusing but remember that the A/R of the housing has nothing to do with the fins of the impeller. you can vary the A/R and the wheel size remains the same. in your case, it's a stage 1 turbine wheel. if you want bigger wheel on the hot side, we can also do it but it will slow down spool up compared to stage one.
Since stage 3 turbine wheel is more expensive, we will double check your particular goals and expectations to determine if it'S really required.
please, confirm the engine you are boosting, it's atmospheric power and your power goals once boosted as well as the main use of the car. we will advise on the most appropriate hot side for your power requirements. modifying it is quick and cheap.
The turn around time on any such modification is only 48 hrs and we can ship express to save you time.

Have a nice day!

>
truth.

Awe man. I was excited to see a big turbo on a 5sfte.