Thanks Lagos - you've been a huge help so far. I'm trying not to get greedy with the boost plus I'm not entirely sure the fuel cut is disabled cause the line running into the bottom of the MAP is not disconnected [I need to find a golf tee ]. Doesn't mean it's not disabled elsewhere tho. Is that the other line coming from the back of the WGA? If not WTF is that one for?

Tvsv (factory boost solenoid)
Your supposed to disconnect and cap that when you install an mbc.

You mean thats where the other line runs to and then to the MAP from there [or did I read that wrong]?
I know it's supposed to be disabled but I suspect it already is because there has been an MBC installed there before already. I'm just trying to trace the lines so I can see where it might be disabled. On the MR2T's I've worked on before they always capped the line under the MAP with a golf tee - I was gonna do the same if that is OK on our cars.

Your map sensor vac line goes to the intake manifold. Unplug that vac line to eliminate fuel cut.
The tvsv line is the 2nd line from your WG actuator. You cap that at both ends, but leave it plugged in when installing an mbc.

This post has been edited by lagos: Jun 18, 2008 - 11:28 AM

Gotcha thanks. One question tho - where is the TVSV located so I can cap the other end [And why am I able to boost to 10PSI with none of this done?]?

TVSV is on the vaccum acessory rail at the bottom of the intake manifold...

This post has been edited by 95celgt: Jun 18, 2008 - 1:29 PM

nvm

This post has been edited by DEATH: Jun 18, 2008 - 1:20 PM

yeayea, i meant my FC3S RX7

well atleast i told you where the TVSV is....its the small one BTW, theres 2 things close together on it, the fat blue cylinder isnt it...its the skinny one.

This post has been edited by 95celgt: Jun 18, 2008 - 1:23 PM

TVSV limits your boost in 1st & 2nd gear to 5psi.
in 3rd - 5th gear you can reach all available boost up to fuel cut unless you have disabled that.

this is why you want to disable TVSV when you install a boost controller so you can have max boost in any gear.

http://alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=23686

Wednesday - My computer crashes - Hard. $2000 HP - All of it was due to a storm surge/power outage - so much for a APC 900 XS [Couldn't get online to pay Jazz when I said I would - I hate breaking my word]
Thursday - I got a Friendly Inspection/Emmissions and (2) Perelli Pzero 225-45R17 installed, mounted and balanced for the AMAZING price of $150 total [Tires and Inspection], out the door - Fcuking Sweet Score!!!!]
Friday - I went in to install my Magnaflow high flow cat. To my horror I find the most hideous excuse for a Bpipe/flex pipe I've ever seen. I wouldn't have run it N/A. [Pictures Coming Soon].
So I shelled out the cash and had a Bpipe/FlexPipe/Cat cad made up to take the space - no bends whatsover.
Car Boost so much better and stronger now [This proves I wasn't crazy when I thought running open DP was abnormally stronger - it didn't have to force it's way througth that old mess .
Plus I found a replacement visor for me so I can mount a small screen in mine and a matchin vanity we scored from an Avalon in my girls [who has the SRS DVD SYSTEM for her viewing pleasure for what I'm on about can be found here: http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=58547&st=0 ]
Friday Night [damn near all night] I completed phase 3 of my audio/video project. I got major deep Bump again to go with my Boost now if I just had A/C...
But a new gremlin has popped up: BRB with that but think on this: EFI relay getting too hot on 100* days?

Edit - Forgot one of the most expensive ones of all.

This post has been edited by DEATH: Jul 5, 2008 - 9:33 AM

Cont.
The Job:
Replace all heater and coolant hoses on the engine and bay. Stop that nasty leak I can't seem to find.
The Materials:
-(2) Bottles of Genuine Toyota For Life Coolant/Antifreeze [Red]
-2.5' of Goodyear small diameter Heater Hose [forgot the ID now]
-5' of Goodyear 16MM ID Heater Hose
-5' of Goodyear large diameter Heater Hose [forgot that one too - I know I suck]
-(1) Replacement Upper Radiator Hose [The one nearest the engine]
-Hundreds of new hose clamps of various sizes and types including OEM T-Bolt clamps
-(3) Monster Energy Drinks
-1/2 Pack of Marlboro Red 100's smoked in frustration
The Tools:
-Full set of Snap-on mechanics tools
-Full set of craftsman tools
-(1) 4 Car garage with lift, Honda Aircompressor [It was bigger than a b16 and surely puts out more TQ ], welding gear, brake lathe, tire balancer and one big ass fan that kept me "cool" all day.
I believe in being over prepared - especially on Sunday in a small town an hour away from your city.

Sunday - Drove the car to Brenham, Tx to my GFs GPs house to use the lift and make the job of replacing the coolant hoses and heater core feed and return lines. MAN WHAT A CHORE! The 3S-GTE must have 3x the hoses the 5S-FE has and all the little ones grouped around the turbo are a serious PITA. There are also two bolted together on a mounting flange behind the intake manifold that were also a pain to get to - even from underneath. I ended up putting the lift all the way up [I'm 6'3"] getting under the engine and having someone lower it about 6" and then I could reach it pretty easy.
The worst one by far was the large line to the Turbo - it has a 90 from the factory and it's only about 1.5" long on each side and is 3/4 ID [or so - I forget already]. So if you don't buy the OEM part and just get a length of regular heater hose then it will kink and starve the turbo for water. So after messing around with that one for half an hour cutting peices and retrying I asked the GF's grandfather who is a mechanic and hotrod builder from waaaaay back if he thought it would be cool to just make a big loop to avoid kinking or reducing the ID at all. He said sure but he also understands my drive for perfection in this car and the need to have things look good as well. Luckily I ended up finding a long heater hose that already had the necessary bend and just cut it down to fit. Problem solved? Hell no. That damn hose fit so well that it didn't want to push over the beading on the piping at all. So I learned a few things yesterday:
1. Hose Assembly Lube exists and it is a wonderful, wonderful thing! Just a little dab of this stuff on the ID of the new tube and it slides on like - well lets not get into that I just wish "someone" had thought to tell me it existed and was available right in the garage not 3 feet from where I struggled with all the rest of the hoses all day.
2. Hard work is great but there is something to be said for having the right tools for the job. [see below description]
3. OEM Coolant hose clamps suck - badly. They go on fine but getting them off in a tight spot and not destroying or removing your sensors is not fun - at all. Did you know they made plyers and clamps specifically for removing these Hose Clamps of Satan? I didn't. Again, I just wish "someone" had told me they were next to the hose assembly lube.
A lift is now a priority in my life. I will own one before too long.
So where was the leak then? LeakS is more correct. Many of the hoses that were the hardest to reach behind the engine had no hose clamps whatsoever on them and were spraying at high temps leaving a pink residue [Was useful for diagnosing tho]. Now every hose on that car has a regular screw type hose clamp or better yet in some cases an OEM T-Bolt Clamp. No more leaks as of yet - even after an hour long drive last night in the oppressive Texas heat [I watched it all through the turbo timer's 2 mins and checked my shallow pan I left under the car last night after I warmed up the car this morning]. Both the radiator and the overflow have the proper amount of coolant still - even as of lunch time today.
Now all I have to do is fix the overflow spout on my Koyo Racing Radiator, bend the upper radiator support's flange back slightly, install along with the TRD radiator hoses and thermostat I will put on order tomorrow.

This post has been edited by DEATH: Jul 7, 2008 - 6:19 PM

Did you ever go to the Dyno Event at Turbochargers.com on 290? What did your pull look like?

Nope - My spot is still on reserve tho. Waiting for the right moment [Like when all the gauges are in and ready to be observed while I make my runs].
Hell yeah - 3 runs for $20. I'd let you have one but they won't do it like that cause logically the hardest part is strapping down the cars.

oh, you gotta buy that new boost gauge before you run, yeah? is there anything else that you have to get first?

and i'll get a dyno pull when they tune my sh!t after turbo'ing. (after our bs Street tune to drive down there )

This post has been edited by D-Man: Jul 17, 2008 - 10:14 AM

No - Not a new Boost gauge [That's for you retard] - and EGT gauge.
EGT = Exhaust Gas Temperature Gauge.

>
What? I though i was buying the one out of your car, and you were buying a newer more spiffy (and expensive) one for your improved performance? i'm confused... (as usual )

Speaking of your enhanced performance, (other than owing me another ride ) Will you be needing another dyno tune? Don't you need to do that when you change the max boost that you can push? (other wise your fuel maps would be off, yeah? Or am i WAY off?)

Not necessarily. The stock ECU knows full well what to do with the extra boost. I could Dyno tune it and pull a few more horses and also just to make sure it doesn't run lean anywhere but from watching my AEM gauge it seems to run on the rich side under boost - so potential for more HP right there just getting it where it should be but I'm not ready to go there yet [I'll be upgrading that Turbo to a CT-27 style one very soon ].

oh right, I forget the 3s you've got was made for boost.

And after catching a ride this weekend; may i tell everyone

">>Wholey Schett>>"?

^ that's just at stock boost which is 8psi, unless Death has any boost creep from upgrades which would be like ~10psi i would guess.

it starts feeling even nicer with a CT-27 style @ 14psi w/a few xtras in the cooler weather

Nope, it was at stock. Just remember i'm running the 5s N/A; so what i previously though to be GREAT for our little tiny celicas; Was blown away now that he's running stock! (it was at like 4psi before i believe) but with the 3s-ge head & turbo, It makes me wanna Ya-ba-Da-ba-Doo down the road a bit harder (pun intended on Wind-Ups )

Matt; I can't wait for that up-grade. What'll i have to buy from you to 'fund' this Ct-27? (What cha' got; rather )

This post has been edited by D-Man: Jul 22, 2008 - 3:01 PM

You already have a rebuildable turbo so it's just a matter of a $250 rebuild with a couple $100 worth of upgrades and machining.

No... What do i have to buy FROM you to FUND the ct-27 for YOU?! it was a joke, get it? as if i were your customer and you were a specialty Celica outlet Garage? (witch is generally the basic scenario here )

Tard'

BTW: you sold me a ct-26 not 27

This post has been edited by D-Man: Jul 22, 2008 - 3:55 PM

>
Thankfully I decided this was an incredibly bad idea [Really just poor taste/Too Ricey for a car this elegant]. The SRS Audio/Video install is all the car needs in the style it deserves [subdued stockish looking setup that can be hidden away to full stock look - perfect]. I may install the other screen where the rear ashtray is - looks alot better there and the kids will appreciate it.
>
This is really the reason for the post. Turns out this was merely a failing starter issue. Found some ominous dark grey shavings in the starter's gear box [BGB calls it a "Clutch Assy" - but obviously not the clutch - clutch]. I've learned not to count my chickens with this car so not gonna say this fixed the heat related issue but the damn thing sounds like a Lexus Starter and has enough power that I can feel it through the poly motor mounts into the chassis. Watching the volts meter reveals it uses far less power to start the car and it catches immediately every time. Very satisfied and we went ahead and wiped down/cleaned the whole area around the starter, clutch slave cylinder and Turbo - just another area lovingly restored to like brand new - the starter even looks updated from the OEM one.
Keeping my fingers crossed, but I expect on the next hot day she won't give me anymore trouble restarting after long hot run [So next Texas Toyota meet we won't spend half the time in a parking lot waiting for my starter to cool down I don't regret that much - got to actually meet and have real conversations with some very cool Texas Celica owners]
Here's the thread on the starter replacement:
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=60553
Will have pics up shortly. Thanks again to the folks who stepped up to help when I needed it - IMO this is what this site is all about.

This post has been edited by DEATH: Jul 24, 2008 - 8:37 AM

And you wanted us to leave you behind..........Death Before Dishonor!

>
Dude - that's so awesome [and awesome of you guys to stick around like that too - I think a few we're heading to their cars tho ]

hopefully replacing the starter fixed the hot start issue you were having Death - the starter is a common thing to go out on 2nd gen 3sgte motors.

D-Man, i know all about going from a 5sfe to a 3sgte & feeling the powah ... i have a '99 Camry so there's a pretty big difference even at just stock boost levels.
however, it is very easy to get spoiled by power very quickly and want more

>
yeah, not to mention it was my B-Day the other day, so He took me for a few runs at a nearby strip Really, going from my wrecked special and hopping into the best GT4 Conversion that Texas has to offer That is FTW!!

GT>>2>> but "Muchos Garcias"
Ripley - It just gets better every week. Last weekend when I took D-Man out the car was running soooo much better than in Austin [I forget what last weeks upgrade was - just some tweaking in the vac lines and such I believe].
I think next time we meet we may have to do so at the track
BTW - Been following LuBu's thread about the ST-205 brake conversion and apparantly we need some spacers in the rear and much machining to the rotors in the front. I'm gonna make him some quality spacers and a drawing for the rear of his car, can you offer some insight into how much you had to machine you're rotors [Not that it would necessarily be the same]?

This post has been edited by DEATH: Jul 24, 2008 - 2:47 PM

D-man, Im not going to be stock much longer (as suspension is concerned anyways, still waiting for the space to start working on that spare 5s and start the turbo project) me and you need to hit a track up soon to put that 5 speed vs Auto 5s argument to a rest

>


that's great Death - so glad the car is running better. those vac leaks can really rob you of boost/power. Vadar had one & we were loosing 2 psi of boost but luckily it was an easy fix.

that would be cool to go to a track - neither joe or i have been to a drag strip but would love to go sometime.
next time we'll have a tranny without synchro grinds & a better clutch too -- oh & a carbon fiber driveshaft tee hee!!
you'll get us probably since your car is lighter & doesn't have the 4WD drivetrain loss that we do, but it would still be fun to do

on the ST205 brake conversion:
really interesting that you guys need a spacer in the rear --- the ST205 rears are a straight bolt on for ST185's. no rotor machining needed there, no spacer, no grinding.
all we did was use a BFH to massage the old dust shields to accept the new larger rotors.
it was really easy & took like 2 hours to take all the old stuff off & put the new 205 rears on.

as far as the fronts are concerned:
1. we had 9mm machined off the front rotor
2. added a 5mm spacer to clear the lower ball joint which was machined down 4mm to fit inside the rotor hat. also used extended wheel studs.
3. used a dremel & ground off about 2mm from the back caliper "ears"
4. we also added a small "ring" of metal inside the rotor since the hub center bore on a ST185 is 54.1mm & a ST205 is 55mm. this will keep all the rotors onto the hub with no moving around.

you have to be a registered member on alltrac.net to view, but i did a small writeup with pics in my project thread there:
http://www.alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.ph...c&start=150

it makes more sense to see all the pics to know what i am talking about on certain things.