hehe death guess what!!!!!!!??? haha nice numbers man congratz!!!!now up grade!!!! and make more power!

Thanks Manny and Jim

>
Thanks - She's a fair bit more powerful than when last we raced [Like as in double LOL - huge ass leak and low boost will do that LOL - still haven't figured out why she idles even when she's leaking - from my memory AFM based 3s's don't like that very much - been a while tho]
i was more than pleased with the torque. HP seems normal but low for an RC. It's probably a combination of the slightly less than 2.5" GReddy SP2 and the Mustang Dyno. Electric cutout is for sure the next mod. I think you may be surprised what difference that will make [I disconnected it recently - just too loud for everyday and I've gotten 4 tiickets recently so trying to keep in on the DL]
No ACG's, BOV to atmos, 2.25" hot pipes/2.5" Cold Pipes.
Told you those AFR looked great just by reading the gauge - gotta be the difference in the RC tune vs USDM that I'm used to seeing.

Thanks girl - pass this info on to Joe for me.

>
LOL - Thanks. I will be - but maybe not what you think. AM Turbo is not in the near future - CT-20b is.
Gotta remember I'm not building this car for a mear 1/4mile run. Come down in May and go cruising the twisties with us and you'll understand why a smaller turbo is ideal for what I want it for - not terribly unlike ralley conditions out there

This post has been edited by DEATH: Mar 13, 2009 - 10:19 AM

>

those leaks will kill you on power & low boost is no fun at all.
i personally don't care for the electric cut-outs ... Running a straight thru system on R2 for a couple of years made me realize how nice mufflers are all the time lol

the AFRs are even more impressive for having a BOV vented to the atmosphere - that can help contribute to over rich conditions & most people just recirc or get a MR2 BPV to avoid the prob all together.

We'll have a good time in May for sure ... Vadar isn't exactly going to be the same either

p.s. I told Joe & he said that was great

This post has been edited by darthripley: Feb 11, 2009 - 6:02 PM

curse you being on the other side of the country matt!! UGH!!! great #s FTMFBBQORANGEW!

Horn && speedo finally fixed!

*wrong thread - delete please*

This post has been edited by DEATH: Apr 6, 2009 - 11:36 AM

Been a while since I did anything so here is a sneak peak at what I'm working on ATM:






I also got some tires finally:

Nothing great but they were uber cheap [$75/2 mounted and balanced]

This post has been edited by DEATH: Jun 12, 2009 - 12:33 AM

looks good matt. i wonder if anyone else will notice what is different

This post has been edited by bmj67: Jun 12, 2009 - 12:34 AM

Looks AWESOME Matt.

those tires DO look dope. i think i might get a set. just look good wrapped around black with polished lip rims

looks good like the little spikes man

Nice - most people don't notice it somehow. So yeah they are kind of like clothes for the car - they come off easily but I figure when I'm just rolling around I won't have them on but for nights when I go to clubs or show I'll put them on. Basically when Ping and I get dressed up to go out the car can now too.
I actually like what I did with the single din gauges more every day. I'm still tweaking that setup tho.

This post has been edited by DEATH: Jun 12, 2009 - 9:36 PM

The latest for the gauge setup - I'm very pleased with the results:



Still need to:
-Buy the last STRI Gauge [Boost to replace the one on the A piller]
-loom the wires, boost lines and harnesses for the gauges
-Paint the bezils all matching with Nighthawk Black Pearl to match the interior trim and the vehicle's exterior
-Replace the CC unit lighting, Cig Lighter Ring and Key ring with red LED

Do you guys think I should paint just the grey portion of the radio face leaving the buttons and chrome lettering alone - might help it blend in more?

no for the radio. you gonna change your pedals???

Nice setup, is that a boost controller or a turbo timer in where the clock used to be?

>
Actually i did change the pedals - to those. I like the simple ones plus these have some nice grip. Not a big fan of overly elaborate pedals but I did find some that look like a large spider crawling on each pedal - I had to resist the urge. just a bit too over the top really

>
Turbo Timer. I haven't upgraded to the EBC yet.
Thanks for the compliment

>>***Under Construction***>>


Here's a pic of the work I've been doing with the spikes on the front [haven't even started the back yet] I love the short spikes with no groove cut into them and the way they look next to the longer one with the groove like that. On the other side I have miniture versions of the groved one in place of the smooth ones - I'll snag a pic of that side too for comparison.
I'm 98% this is the way the front is gonna stay.

vvv Duh - That's why it says "Under Construction" vvv

This post has been edited by DEATH: Aug 10, 2009 - 4:43 PM

Spikes...haha.



This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Aug 10, 2009 - 4:22 PM

Looking clean as always Matt, keep up the good work.

you are the man matt!! and where in the WORLD did you get some michelins for 75 each!?!?!? i got a friend that can get me some atlas tires (yeah never heard o them either) for 45 each, but they AINT NO MICHELINS! Lol

good work!!

>

+Eleventy billionz!

I just got raped on tires for the G. $250/each for 225/40-19 Michelin Pilot Sports A/S Plus. bleh. I should've checked with you before I went ahead and bought those.

>
well, that's actually on the cheaper side of things for a 19 inch tire, especially for michelin pilot sports.

but seriously though, I can't even get a 225/45/17 michelin pilot sport without the mount/balance for $75 eash, even with my employee discount

LOL - They were $75 for 2 mounted and balanced - it pays to know people in the right places

i sized some 225 45 on my car and they looked like they wouldnt fit!! too tall? the guy at discount tire said that i had a negative offset wheel (i got some eagle alloys) can someone enlighten me on whats wrong? thats the size i want!

>
negative offset?! that means the part of the wheel that mounts to the hub is more towards the back of the wheel than the front. for example, with a 0 offset, with an 8 inch wide wheel, you'd have 4 inches behind the mounting surface and 4 inches in front of it (think deep dish wheels...) positive offsets are most common, I don't think anybody else on this board has anything below a positive 25 offset, with most between 35-45... so either the guy didn't know what he was talking about, or you have some crazy deep dish wheels that probably won't fit.

look on the back of the wheel, the size and offset should be stamped either behind one of the spokes, or on the mounting hub, and should read something like "17x7 ET42" which would mean a 17 inch wheel, 7 inch wide, with a positive 42mm offset.

yeah i assumed he didnt know what he was talking about, because at first he was trying to tell me that 215s would be taller than the 225s. i was like HUH?!? assumed he got them mixed up, but then when he started talking about negative offset i was like... ok he dont know wtf he's talking... but the tires did look like they wouldnt fit in the wheel well... imma try to test fit if i can. i should have called his BS and asked where the lip was lol


edit: sorry matt... if i jacked the thread...

This post has been edited by easternpiro1: Aug 16, 2009 - 10:56 PM

>
forget about it

Taking a page from Manny's [Presure2] book:

>>1.5 Years and 16,000 Miles on the rebuild/build on the 3S-GTE and running stronger than ever>>.
Got the FCD built [Thanks Stephen!] and installed and now I'm running ~16-18PSI but I'll be backing the boost controller off until I get the WRC steel wheel CT-20B from Jim in and installed. Then I'm cranking it right back up to 20PSI [along with appropriate fuel mods of course - gonna need a little more as I'm maxing the stock injectors out ~17PSI @ 6K RPMS]

Also, on the fun side, I installed a new Kenwood double Din DVD Player/Screen. Very cool and I can't praise Kenwood's sound quality high enough. It really brought out the best of the Boston-Acoustics speakers I have in there. The lack of subwoofer output and control is disappointing tho - especially from a $1K HU [No I didn't pay that for it - that's MSRP. I gave only $475 for it]

This post has been edited by DEATH: Aug 25, 2009 - 9:50 AM

>
you know you can just set the double dins subwoofer gain to 0 then turn up the sound about half way then crank the amp up in bass boost and gain until it feels comfortable, then when you feel like having a little more bass, set the gain on the double din up a little higher. at least that's how i have my deck setup. what subs are you pushing, with what amp, gauge wire, capacitor, i know you have a red top battery that's about it.

That's pretty much what I did but I have the bass boost remote control on my R-F amps so I set the normal bass level like you said with the boost on zero so I have control up and down from my chair easily. No biggie - just not too pleased it didn't come with a seperate out and control like most good decks do these days.
I'm running R-F amps 4gauge wiring etc - it's setup very well


LOL - I'm getting down to the picky BS now - Stephen and I fixed a bunch of really pointless [but messed up] functions on the car a few weekends ago. Now all the little creaks and groans are becoming annoying and the windows roll up way too slow [on the passenger side especially].
Hey Stephen - do you think upgrading the grounds on the window motors and controls would help with this?

This post has been edited by DEATH: Aug 25, 2009 - 10:59 AM