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ebay header - 6G Celicas Forums

Topic #58028 146 posts Started by blackbullet
Wraped and ready to go but I can't drill a hole for that second 2 sensor so I'm gonna have to bring it to a shop I guess.

This post has been edited by WH95TE: Feb 2, 2009 - 5:24 PM
Anybody have problems lining up the header? All the holes line up but when I try t put it on they don't slide all the way, could it be off slightly? The header is from surewin, houldn't it line up perfect? I was hoping the only prolems would be the second o2 and the patch pipe, not this
ebay header fit like stock on my 7afe :dunno:

2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
Using a dremmel to bore the holes slightly larger, it's working so far, almost on. I need to be able to drive my car home tonight(5 mins) and then to the shop tomorrow(10 mins) is that gonna be ok without the second o2 sensor in?
All done, damn this thing is LOUD.
yea, it totally changes how the exhaust sounds.

2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
Definitely makes the car sound a lot louder. I just switched my stock mani back in to pass smog and my car is extremely quiet even with the custom exhaust. That being said, I can't wait to put the header back on. The car seems naked w/o it.
its very funny that people mistake my car for a WRX with it on.. the headers make the car sound like muscle.. I like them.. it makes my celica different from other cars with just headers and exhaust.. (Civic rice boys ehh hate them) im soo glad it doesnt make my car sound like a fart can.. it also makes my car pop alot.. sounds like my muffler is spitting fire lol

This post has been edited by SlvrCelica09: Feb 11, 2009 - 8:53 PM

THIS IS WHERE WE HOLD THEM!Still trying to find the cure for ST205 asthma..6gc.net's outlaw vigilante because im a LEADER not a follower.
I'm definitely going to be buying one after I finish paying for some other stuff I have coming up.

And it's HEADER not headers, we only have 1.

1999 Celica GT
sonebody should makea how to on installing...



i might... mine are wrapped just waiting fr a good day to do it!
could we get some vids on how it looks in the engine bay and also how load it is please?
got mine in finally, burned the crap out of my hand doing so.
but does sound amazing! alot better.
If you get one definitely get the stainless header from seller surewinproducts. It's a direct bolt on fit - be sure to soak the studs good though as well as your flex pipe bolts - hopefully they're not too bad rusted. You may also want to break out the 18 to 24" breaker bar. I have one on my 94 GT coupe. Major improvement on throttle response and power across the entire RPM range. You'll want to go ahead and wrap it though because after about a month or so it will oxidize but boy for that first month the stainless looks good. Hope this helps.
i currently have one, its great, gave me alittle better gas mileage, but the header will blue after awhile. mine was great cause it came with the 2-1 down pipe, just had no spot for o2 sensor on the downstream,
sound like that's a lot work just to install the header. i just bought one and i don't know if i want to put it on now.

This post has been edited by black_veilside: Feb 26, 2009 - 10:07 PM
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QUOTE (black_veilside @ Feb 26, 2009 - 1:24 AM) *
>sound like that's a lot work just to install the header. i just bought one and i don't know if i want to put it on know.


You can give it to me then biggrin.gif

It's really not a lot of work if you have any kind of mechanical inclination. The biggest pain is just that exhaust bolts can be pretty rusty and some will probably need cut off. Just get every bolt soaked in PB Blaster or something similar to break the rust, especially the bolts between the manifold and the head. Job really shouldn't take more than a couple hours, that's including about an hour of spraying and soaking to break rust.

1999 Celica GT
That's the worst part of it - breaking the manifold nuts loose. You have to be real careful not to snap the stud - then you're drilling it out and retapping. If the nut is froze to the stud and the whole stud spins out don't worry because you can get new studa and nuts. PB Blaster is the best thing to use - I soaked mine down and let it sit for about 30 minutes then tapped on them. Mine actually broke free using only my Craftsman 1/2" ratchet! The 3 bolts on the flex pipe are the ones that are boogers. I had to soak them and use my 24" breaker bar - and thought I was going to snap the bolts. But after putting some muscle into it they came free with no damage. I think it took me between an 1 to 1.5 hours to complete the job.

This post has been edited by bdawgbp1: Feb 26, 2009 - 11:41 AM
>
QUOTE (blu94gt @ Feb 26, 2009 - 12:05 PM) *
>>
QUOTE (black_veilside @ Feb 26, 2009 - 1:24 AM) *
>sound like that's a lot work just to install the header. i just bought one and i don't know if i want to put it on know.


You can give it to me then biggrin.gif

It's really not a lot of work if you have any kind of mechanical inclination. The biggest pain is just that exhaust bolts can be pretty rusty and some will probably need cut off. Just get every bolt soaked in PB Blaster or something similar to break the rust, especially the bolts between the manifold and the head. Job really shouldn't take more than a couple hours, that's including about an hour of spraying and soaking to break rust.

i was hoping for just a bolt on and not that much work, my oem header crack that is the only reason why i bought this header.
i ended up using an impact to pop the manifold to down pipe bolts loose and it worked great with very little effort. the exhaust manifold bolts in the head were easy too, just put a ratchet on them and they turned off the studs without any issues at all, didn't even need to use any lube. just be sure to torque them to 30-40lbft when reinstalling and to re-pinch them so they stay tight.

2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
So the 3 bolts at the header>downpipe snapped probably from being rusty so i'm running an open header now laugh.gif Will a shop have bolts on hand to fix this? It's annoying to drive like this

This post has been edited by WH95TE: Mar 15, 2009 - 1:09 AM
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QUOTE (WH95TE @ Mar 15, 2009 - 1:05 AM) *
>So the 3 bolts at the header>downpipe snapped probably from being rusty so i'm running an open header now laugh.gif Will a shop have bolts on hand to fix this? It's annoying to drive like this


Just go to a hardware store, you should be able to get the stainless bolts you need for much cheaper than a shop would give you.

1999 Celica GT
what he said ^^

go to NAPA Auto Parts, they have the good stuff (like commercial says) and they really do also buy some lock nuts. so they wont move around and loosen up. trust me i have delt with this ebay header/gasket tearing so many times its amazing!! and have yet to fix it. i think i need to resurface flanges from header to downpipe, or check out with straight edge...

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Mar 15, 2009 - 6:53 PM

Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle partshttp://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514
Hey guys, how is performance wise with the surewin headers? Does the car feel faster or sound nicer after this install? And also if anyone has some dyno charts before and after that would be nice to post that information up

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the header gives a lil more on the highway,
sound like my car breathes,
id say its worth the $80
ya you can feel the pull above 4k. you cant tell much of a difference in 1st and 2nd. But when you get into 3rd and 4th you can actually feel the header at work..

Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle partshttp://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514
does anyone know what it sounds like with the stock piping/resonator/muffler?
like is it raspy?/ricey?/slightly louder?/a lot louder?/does it pop a bunch?
I just got mine installed over the weekend. And like everyone else, my "seat of the pants" dyno says that it gives more power in the higher RPMs I noticed quicker highway acceleration.

Another thing to note. Its a PITA to get that out of there with both the alternator in the way and the bracket attached to the transmission.
Also, after taking the second O2 sensor out, I found that the threads were all messed up and that putting it back into the new header would cause more harm than good. So I'm running with the primary O2 sensor plugged in, and the second one completely removed. I have thrown no codes yet after 3 days of driving, so I'd say I'm ok.

The biggest improvement was probably replacing the 500lb exhaust manifold/cat with a 10-15lb one. That thing is HEAVY.
>
QUOTE
>does anyone know what it sounds like with the stock piping/resonator/muffler?
like is it raspy?/ricey?/slightly louder?/a lot louder?/does it pop a bunch?
I can't tell any noticeable difference from inside the car. I have an Injen SRI so it makes it harder to hear the exhaust anyway. If there is a difference, its probably minor.

'99 Celica GT - Sold'11 Mazdaspeed3
>
QUOTE (Promasta @ May 11, 2009 - 9:28 PM) *
>does anyone know what it sounds like with the stock piping/resonator/muffler?
like is it raspy?/ricey?/slightly louder?/a lot louder?/does it pop a bunch?


I just threw on my headers yesterday and I notice a "rasp" at higher RPM, but you can definately tell the car is breathing better. biggrin.gif

KAOS|THE PROGRESSION - SLOW & STEADY|PARTING OUT- it ALL must go!|
how is the performance with the new headers and are u running a stock cat under or catless?