a light coat of rattle can aluminum. look like 1998?



This post has been edited by delusionz: Sep 26, 2009 - 9:45 PM

I like that aluminum look. Wish there was a faux-aluminum set for 6GC's.

hmm came out pretty good. just as long as it doesn't chip right? You know now your going to have to do the rest of it

yea the IC would look pretty tidy all polished up.

L/Rear wheel bearing done! No more play. My odometer went up 40kms while in the shop... someone must have enjoyed my GT4

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Dude, I would have KILLED. That's ridiculous.

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yeah thats ridiculous, reminds me my dads friend sent his lancia delta integrale to get some welding done and when he got it back he noticed the car was overheating cause some person took it out and didn't put the extra fans on and the brakes were smoking! and just obvious that they took it out and thrashed it.

Dude, I remember ripping Tahiti up with that car in Gran Turismo 3...that car is a beast.

40km's thats along distance to check a wheel bearing, I wonder if they brought it down my ways since I saw this white GT4 locally though needed lots of TLC outside, sounded nice though.

those came out tidy, whats next?

Pics of the console trim back on?

I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the 3rd piece to the side of the steering wheel, the markings are painted on instead of embossed.

BTW: 1998 factory silver pieces are painted too, I've seen them wear out back to black. They too have the painted markings on the 3rd piece painted instead of embossed, it's weird, like the production lines, they forgot to put the markings in the mold or something?

I may just print 0 1 2 and make a stencil. I'll figure it out.


At the mechanical & tyre shop I found a guy who knows a little bit of history on my GT4, He tells me many professionals have worked on my car in the past including a Toyota employee who worked on it privately. I also found out that in the last 40,000 kms before I bought it somebody had neglected a cambelt change and oil change (Ironically my turbo blew up 1 week after I bought it with a report stating clogged oil galleries & contamination due to neglect) and apparently I'm not the 1st to have the turbo replaced in this GT4.

There is minor body damage on my car (L/Rear Guard & R/Front Guard) from someone having a parking accident 2 owners ago, though for some reason the front crash bar is bent even though I'm assured this car hasn't been in an accident.

I'm not the best photographer, but up close in real life you can still see the detail of the plastic, it's still obviously coated in paint but unlike other painted interiors I've seen, this isnt ruined by a glossy thick coat that just looks cheap and tacky.

It's not quite the same as the 1998 OEM plastics, they seem to have more Grey in them and aren't so reflective, but still I think it's pretty close.

This post has been edited by delusionz: Sep 28, 2009 - 4:40 PM

Damn man, I like that silver...another thing I might have to steal.

Windscreen replacement - DONE

New rubber on all 4 corners - DONE

L/R Wheel bearing replacement - DONE

Oil & Oil filter change - DONE

Radiator - Top tank blew off!!! I knew this would happen, but NOW?? How did I subconsciously know that?

Still to do...

Gearbox oil change

Spark plugs?

A few days after thinking about the urgency of a new radiator, it blew it's top. I rushed to clean the stained paintwork before I took pictures







After trying to refil it, It just pissed out again revealing the location of the crack, It's major


The crack


Off to the shop with this, will get it back tomorrow morning.


Good time to do this


This post has been edited by delusionz: Sep 29, 2009 - 7:04 PM

Got my radiator back from the shop this morning and put it back into the car, everything seems to be okay, so warmed it up and got my fix of boost

Do it yourself labour - FREE
New radiator top tank - $165NZD
3x 1L Toyota Long Life Coolant Concentrate - $56.80NZD
Getting your fix of GT4 boost after 2 days of withdrawl - PRICELESS

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I hate you.

was the crack really that long?

Hay Dud PM me I haev some guages doing nothing at the moment
Oil Temp
Oil Press
Water Temp

Call or pm me.

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You're living in the wrong country buddy.


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Indeed, the whole thing was brittle and discoloured for a long time. It was a very gradual process - I live in a cold climate and the 3s-gte generates alot of heat, and I drive boost several times a day and when the plastic becomes the weakest breaking point, weaker than the overflow spring in the filler cap, this is what happens.


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I don't have a water T or a sandwich plate though?

"I don't have a water T or a sandwich plate though?"

Cheap get it from Jonv82....

This guage set "http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Performance/Gauges/auction-244957052.htm"

Plate ($40) "http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Performance/Gauges/auction-244788279.htm" 4/3 UNF for our car.

Water T ($24.99) "http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Performance/Gauges/auction-244889292.htm" get the gold or red
I have the blue 30mm and it's a bit on the small side but not leakin but the gold 32mm or red 34mm would be better.

Guages and holder cost me $9 x 3 for cups and $58 x 3 for the guages - They are not doing any thing now so for a layout of about $70 (+ new filter) you can use them.

I will not ask for them back as I like the ones I have now.

:-)

most of the time radiators will only leave a small hair line crack. although maybe that's because the non-gtfours end tanks are of a composite type material, while gt-fours are thermoplastic which is why when it fails, it leaves a larger crack. i noticed this while looking at several gt4 engine bays how the rads were glossier, and appeared to be made of plastic.

maybe to save a little bit more weight perhaps....metal vs plastic

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Must be different JDM vs USDM? Because my GT4 shares an identical radiator P/N as my old SS-I and SS-III.

Yeah SS-II/III/GT4 share the same one.... (I see heaps of people running to order the JDM radiators now )
16400-7A080 MT SS-II/III/GT4 ST202/ ST202C /ST205
16400-7A090 AT SS-II/III ST202 / ST202C
16400-7A060 MT SS-I ST202/ST203
16400-7A070 AT SS-I ST202/ST203
^ from Toyodiy
I hope you didn't do any damage to your engine with your radiator blowing off

This post has been edited by Rusty: Oct 1, 2009 - 11:06 PM

More genuine parts...

Thermostat & Gasket




So after putting my car back together my heater stopped working, my engine takes years to warm up, and my nice red coolant turned to poo brown instantly, I tried to flush it and use up my remaining Toyota LL coolant it still turned to poo brown and my heater still doesn't work. I took it to the radiator shop that replaced my top tank and they tell me my thermostat is fu*ked and that I need a new one and to flush it with the thermostat housing off. Oh joy I thought, another $60 on coolant, luckily the thermostat and gasket were alot cheaper than I expected ($40 all up.)

So hopefully when I get around to doing this, it will be the last time I have to drain and refill my radiator in a while.

you should buy a bottle of coolant system flush while you're at it. a bottle costs $5 and i got more heat from my heater after doing it. plus it's better for the waterpump and radiator that you're running 'clean' coolant without that gunky brown stuff mixed into it.

Is there somewhere online I can buy an intake like yours? or was it a local source?

it's a k&n filter, would easy to get hold of?

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It's just a DIY with a K&N.
3" stainless steel pipe (easiest to get from ebay)
3x 3" hose clamps (from auto parts store),
3" silicone joiner (from performance parts store)
K&N filter (ebay or performance parts store, these are expensive so try find a good deal)

Also you'll need 2 mini filters, IIRC the top one was 19mm (oil breather) and the bottom one (idler breather) was 15mm.

This setup is far from ideal anyways, It runs like **** but it sounds cool. It's better to have the bov return the air down the throat of the turbo, or atleast get a 50/50 split of atmo and plumb back, I just don't have the welding tools or skills to do that so my intake is still an ongoing project.

I think Apexi have an ST205/ST215 kit that has the bov return flange on it, I've seen it on some cars, thats the ideal way. EDIT: Sorry it's Blitz here's what I'm talking about

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This post has been edited by delusionz: Oct 15, 2009 - 1:40 AM