So once again, I've flushed my cooling system... This is getting annoying...

Yesterday I tried to get the thermostat job done, didn't have the right tools to get the thermostat housing off so just made do with a flush. My heater was working better after that but my engine temperature was dropping very low (less than 1/4) at speeds over 80kph.

Today I tried again, this time I got the thermostat housing off, I had to remove the radiator and push the fuse boxes to the side. I flushed the system with the garden hose and installed the new Toyota Genuine thermostat (82 deg C) and rubber O ring seal, put it all back together and filled it with 2.5L of coolant, the topped up the rest with water. Fired up the engine with the heater running and kept topping up the water until full.

The result, engine got up to temp as normal, checked for leaks - no leaks so far, but heater has no hot air at all??? It's now 10pm at night so I called it a day, didn't go out for a test drive incase I get stuck. Will see what happens tomorrow. I checked my diagnostic codes by shorting TE1 and E1 in the diagnostic box and turning the key to "ON" without starting it. I had error code 34 (fuel cut due to excessive boost -- already knew it was overboosting) and error code 54 (intercooler water pump or low intercooler level -- this comes up all the time, just top up the cooler and clear the codes).

Hopefully everything comes right tomorrow...

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very good, thanks for the info

A little video of some extra silver and red bits

The new thermostat is going well, No matter what the conditions my engine temperature is maintaining the right temp and my heater is working, even when the car is moving!

Here's a video of the old thermostat though, I can't figure out whats wrong with it, It opens in a container of hot water and it closes under cold water.

didn't your radiator get fixed. might be a fault in ther??? blockage or air bubbles else where?

This post has been edited by Rusty: Oct 22, 2009 - 12:45 AM

The new thermostat fixed my engine operating temp problem and my heater, all is fine now.

I just don't understand what is wrong with the old one, aside from it looks like crap.

It doesn't open under luke warm water or cold water, it just opens in boiling water which is how it should be. Maybe all it needed was a good clearing out with everything removed?

air bubbles in the system will cause all sorts of weird problems. It could very well be that just opening everything up and flushing again fixed your problem rather than changing the 'stat. Next time you drain the coolant though you need to jack the front end of the car way up when you refill the system....this allows any air bubbles to escape as the rad fill tube will then be the highest point. Just FYI

on a completely different note whats the size for your space saver in your boot?

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T125/70D17

This post has been edited by delusionz: Apr 21, 2012 - 3:07 AM

At first I thought you meant cleaning...I was like that's still dirty as hell!

Nice touches though, it would be nice if someone made faux-aluminum dash trim.

Hehe yeah needs a vacuum, The aluminum painted trims is what I've finished off.

I got bored with all black, esp since the door sill and the gear knob are silver / aluminum. I'm happy with it the way it is now, I didn't want to get carried away with it, as I've seen in other interiors where they've painted too much.

I would probably only do the door handle, switch bezel, and radio bezel. How did you do the gauge trim though? And how did you paint everything else, actually? Looks very good!

The gauge trim is the 2nd layer behind the clear plastic screen.

looks tidy bro , hope you used good stuff so it doesn't chip off, and waste all your good work. Yeah theres a line, from tidy up some areas to looking like the ex has emptyed a paint tin in the car.


+1 for a vacuum

And I'm wondering how your door panels got warped...right in front of the handle. Looks like there are tiny dents/impressions.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Nov 13, 2009 - 12:29 AM

The door card was like that when i bought the car. I presume someone before me drove with the windows down in the rain.

Our SS-III and GT-Four Celicas after some waxing.






This post has been edited by delusionz: Nov 26, 2009 - 9:51 PM

ahh nice and clean

wow dude 2 Celica's and the best of the best as well :-)

I *almost* considered this SSIII on trademe

But the fact that it was
1) Out of town
2) More expensive
3) Not a red GT4 (lol)

swayed me away from it. But still, super low k's and looks mint..

How "different" are the SS3 and GT4 to drive? I expect the extra power and AWD makes the GT4 quite a different beast..

They both drive very similarly around Auckland. The SS-III is a little bit more nimble, steering and clutch isn't as heavy and you can definitely feel it has less weight, the 3S-GE is no slouch either and being the SS-III with Superstrut Suspension and front LSD the steering is just as responsive and the traction is almost as good as the GT4.

The similarities end when you get out into the country, the GT4 does turn into an entirely different beast. I've seen V8 Holdens in my rear view mirror almost wipe out trying to keep up with me in the twisties meanwhile the GT4 is just going about its business like its no problem.

Overall the SS-III is impressive, but anything the SS-III can do the GT4 eats it for breakfast lol.

Bit excited about whats coming next, so I prepared a sneak preview

$40 what a great buy how much did that guy want for just the blocks? lol


have you got it yet?

gosh the NZ'ers have been busy this week

Spoiler showed up this morning

The middle hole here lines up to the rear nut in the spoiler, and perfect on the other side too



This post has been edited by delusionz: Dec 4, 2009 - 3:12 AM

I decided to sand off the middle studs on the bottom of the wrc extenders to save drilling extra holes and I bolted it down, it all lines up perfectly.

Now the plan is to use the rest of the guide from 97lestyousay (cheers for that, good writeup.) In the mean time heres what it looks like...









This post has been edited by delusionz: Dec 4, 2009 - 5:19 PM

Dude it looks awesome.

I wonder if you can get it rebadged?!?

Alternatively, you could replace the engine driveline

Spoiler debadged, cleaned and mounted. Drilling was relatively straight forward, now just needs to be painted.



This post has been edited by delusionz: Dec 4, 2009 - 5:18 PM

Looks good. We did the same thing on my wife's 96 ST. Instead of drilling new holes to match the blocks standard slots. We bolted the wing down with 4 dry wall screws each side. We tried to bondo the old holes and the middle one but after a few weeks the bondo was starting to sink in where the middle hole is and the two side ones.

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Use "GT four" sticker on raiser block will better look..............

Yeah thats what he's planning to do check 2nd post at the top of the page again


you sure it'll be secure? with just 2 bolts? I'd hate for it to fly off on you.